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tony.latham wrote:dancam wrote:Baltic birch, but only 5x5 sheetsJohn61CT wrote:But it's a lot heavier than it needs to be.
Do they even make exterior grade 1/8th"?
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The 1/8" Baltic birch I use can be soaked for weeks in a bucket of water and it doesn't change.
T
John61CT wrote:Sorry, meant reflective Mylar type sheet, near zero thickness.dancam wrote:Interesting idea.
The reflectex im familiar with is fairly soft, 3/8 thick or so and comes in a roll, is that what your thinking of?I wasn't planning on flexible foam, but rigid, high compression strength like XPS or polyiso sheets. The underlying plastic grid has no real deflection at 18" spacing.dancam wrote:I'm not sure what you would be using as a floor covering
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deflecting the foam
Not planning on regular chairs or stiletto heels 8-)
I'm thinking Johns Manville's fiberglass faced Polyiso would be pretty tough, e.g. sold at Menards.
But yes, good point. The floor covering doesn't need to be rigid, just strong, spread the load a bit.
My wall panelling will be PMF, maybe with screening rather than canvas, so I'll be experimenting along those lines anyway.
KCStudly wrote:dancam wrote:... Glued with tb2 or tb3 thinned down a little for more work time...
Unless you are in an especially hot and arid location and your glue application ends up as tacky as it would in a more standard environment before joining the components, for a wood to foam joint I would strongly advise against dilution. Any extra glue or moisture you add will have to be absorbed by the wood in order for the glue to set. For panels, in my experience this worked best with straight TB2 and a very thin rolled on application.
IIRC I shut off the fan (area fan that I use to keep myself cool) and just worked quickly to roll out the glue.
John61CT wrote:I would be interested to links to more detail, especially drawings, on that drip edge idea.
But I can't see leaving any cold entry venting that can't be closed off, will be used in extreme cold and high altitude conditions.
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