6x12 Cargo trailer toy hauler conversion

[W8NONU]

Since my intention with the trailer is to use it as a base camp for multiple days of riding my motorcycle, usually in a primitive campground, I will need a shower. To keep things simple I use my kitchen water system with the five gallon water storage and foot pump for showering. The water storage tank, water line and foot pump are just moved to the back of the trailer and the spray head is mounted on the top of the wall. The one inch pvc pipe in the pic stays out of the way mounted just below the ceiling. I have two shower curtains that go on the pvc and form a complete four wall shower. The size is about 32" square so it isn't huge but is large enough to not be a pain trying to shower. I have a platic tub that I stand in and the shower curtain bottom stays inside of the tub to catch the water from the shower. I heat whatever water I need on my stove to get a hot shower with a biodegradable soap which allows me to dispose of the water without causing any environmental issues. The electrical box next to the shower is nothing more than an extension cord as it is only hot when I have the wiring plugged into another outlet at the front of the trailer. It also is only hot if I have shore power to the trailer. So for primitive camping it isn't a concern and when I do have shore power I just unplug the wiring up front and can safely shower. I didn't want an extension cord draped across the trailer if I needed power so I ran wiring through the ceiling and put the box up. After a few more uses I may decide to add a drain hose to the tub I stand in and put a pass through in the floor to allow the tub to drain instead of having to toss the water after my shower.

[W8NONU]

Propane set up. I needed the propane earlier so I made a ring for the tank to sit on and keep ot from sliding and hold the tank down with a chain and a turnbuckle. I have a 12' long propane hose that is brought up through a bulkhead under the trailer (2" pvc pipe) for my stove or heater as needed. The long hose also gives me the option to run the hose under the trailer and use my stove under the awning. I had to remove the spare tire to use the propane with this set up. In the next week or so I will be adding to the height of the existing piece of channel where the tire was mounted, cutting the tire mount off and rewelding it back on high enough to clear the propane tank with the spare tire mounted. Then I'll build a locking box to surround the propane tank and have space to carry my scissor jack, awning stakes, extension cord, etc. For now I've just carried the spare in the back of my truck.

[W8NONU]

I wanted to have an awning and searched for one. I found some very expensive awnings, middle of the road and cheap awnings! The one common denominator was "flimsy" in a high wind regardless of price. So, I decided to make my own awning, mounts and frame. I had a bunch of 1-1/2" pvc pipe laying around and decided that it would work well for what I wanted to accomplish. For the main pipe that would have the awning permanently attached and would in turn attach to the side of the trailer I chose a thin wall pipe. It is flexible enough to bend in order to attach it to mounts that were roughly 3" shorter than the pipe. I measured the length I wanted the pipe to be based on a 8'x12' tarp, measured where the "T" pcs would be for the frame poles and then mounted two "L" brackets with sheet metal screws to the top rail at the roof line. I cut the pipe to length and attached the tarp to it with zip ties. Then I made a matching pipe with "T"'s for the opposite side of the tarp, cut three pipes to legnth for to complete the frame. The top pic shows the "T" that holds the center support pole. The middle pic shows the frame without the center support. I raise the frame at this point and place the extension poles in the frame. Once the frame is raised I place small sections of pvc with a slot cut into them over the tarp and pvc frame. These slotted pcs hold the tarp in place on the frame. The bottom pic shows the awning and frame rolled up for travel. This all,goes inside the trailer when traveling. More pics to follow to show some detail.

[W8NONU]

Bottom pic shows the slotted piece of pvc, middle shows the piece going on the tarp and pipe and the top pic shows how the piece holds the tarp onto the frame.

[W8NONU]

Top pic shows the awning stakes I Use. They're like circus tent stakes. I hate having to take the awning down if I'm leaving for a while in order to prevent damage if the wind comes up. So I Use huge stakes to hold the frame. The slotted pvc pieces will give in a heavy wind and just pop off. The frame stays put...I know because it was up in a 70 mph wind and thunderstorm! The tarp blows a little but remains attached to the frame at the trailer roof line. Tarps are cheap so if it does get damaged I'm out very little. If I am going to gone for a bit I do lower the tarp on the ends with the center pole left at full height. This makes a nice bow in the pvc when I tighten the ends down and allows the rain to run off. The center pic shows how I store my frame tie down ropes in a piece of slotted pvc. Keeps them neat and I always know where they are. Bottom pic is the awning and one of my side kicks waiting for me to set up my chair and table underneath...

[W8NONU]

I made my three extension poles from 3/4" and 1/2" metal electrical conduit. Each piece is 5' long. The conduit is strong, lightweight and inexpensive. The 1/2" conduit will nest inside the 3/4" nicely. I drilled holes according to what I thought I would need for the awning and purchased some pins to go through the holes and hold the poles at the length I desired. I placed a 3/4" pvc cap on the bottom of the 3/4" conduit to keep it from filling up with dirt and debris. The top of the 1/2" conduit fits inside the frame's 3 way 90 degree elbows. Two of the elbow openings are 1-1/2" to accept the frame and the other one is 3/4" threaded hole which accepts the conduit nicely. The threads have no bearing other than that is what I had on hand and it worked.

[W8NONU]

When I'm just camping and not on a motorcycle trip my two side kicks, Misha and Kali tag along.

[featherliteCT1]

Very fine work ... creative ... thanks for all the great photos!

[W8NONU]

I'm planning on building a shallow box to mount on the outside wall of the trailer under the awning. The box will house two fold out shelves. One to hold my cook stove, a tub for a sink, drying dishes and the other to hold a water container with gravity fed spigot for washing hands and dishes. I think I'll also put a set of speakers in the box so I can listen to my radio and mp3 player while outside. Just bought a car stereo to install in the trailer.

[W8NONU]

I keep all of my electrical adapters in one spot. I cut the cord off of an old multi outlet strip and mounted it to the wall and place my adapters in it. I screwed a three prong to two prong outlet to the wall and put my 30 amp adapter on it. Keeps everything in one place out of the way but handy when needed.

[W8NONU]

When I push the window unit into position for use I made a simple lock from a piece of wood and two metal dowels. It just pushes down into the matching holes in the shelf and prevents the a/c unit from being pushed back into the trailer.

[W8NONU]

Finally got my radio installed. Nice little unit with blue tooth, a usb slot and an sd card slot. Allows me to play music from a usb flash drive or the sd card when there is no radio signal available. I also purchased a blue tooth speaker so I can listen to the radio while oitside of the camper. The switch under the radio is to killthe power when the radio isn't in use. I mounted the antenna inside the camper behind the rounded fiberglass section in front of the trailer at the roof line. Will have to seeif this will work when in areas with weak signals. May end up moving the antenna outside.

[W8NONU]

I decided to simplify the process of putting up the screen at the back of the trailer. It slips into place against the interior wall I built and the one closed trailer barn door being held in place by two screws on "L" brackets. Instead of having to put the screws in and take them out each time I Use the screen or remove it, I made some brackets so I can just slide the door into place and it locks in against the brackets. Now I can use the screen with no tools. With a bracket mounted on each side and "L" brackets mounted on the screen frame the screen just slides in place.

[W8NONU]

My electrical needs are small. The 5,000 btu a/c is by far the largest electrical requirement since I don't use a micro wave, toaster or other high wattage appliances. Because of this I did not want to take up room in the trailer with an electrical panel. I put in a simple bulk head cord type electrical connection and wired three 110 volt lines from there. One to the a/c and two to electrical outlets and led lights. To protect everything I use an in line 15amp gfci, 2' long waterproof cord from the shore power to an extension cord going to the trailer. I did allow for future changes by locating the three circuits in a cabinet where I could place an electrical box if I find a need for it.

[featherliteCT1]

Very cool! Where did you get the 15amp gfci, 2' long waterproof cord? I searched online but could not find the one you have. Thanks!