#4

[tony.latham]

More template work today.
I cut the profile and trued it up using a pint of elbow grease. Speaking of a pint...



I've got most of the 'drops details drawn in:



It makes for a stronger hatch spar if you butt it along the bulkhead, but I need that space to run wiring. To make up for it, the spar will be laminated oak.

Tony

[tony.latham]

I got a few things done...

The template is complete and stashed. Take a look and tell me what's wrong with this ...



And the first skeleton core is glued up:







Tony

[Tom&Shelly]

I got a few things done...

The template is complete and stashed. Take a look and tell me what's wrong with this ...

You need to give us a virtual tour of your brand new (gravity defying) workshop one of these days.

Tom

[Atomic77]

I admire you for starting #4. I thought at one time I would build #2 to perfect all the things I learned from #1. I've since changed my mind. One and done. Nice work Tony.

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[tony.latham]

You need to give us a virtual tour of your brand new (gravity defying) workshop one of these days.

It's 22 x 28'. Huge with respect to my shop history. Figuring out where to stash the template was a head scratcher but it worked. With all my tools, the new chassis sitting on supports, and my 4 x 8' bench set up with the walls started... it's tight. I need to manage the flow of materials and parts. It'll make a big difference when I can wheel the chassis outside.

T

[tony.latham]

Today I gang cut the skeletons... (they were screwed together).





That big vertical strip will support the sides of the bulkhead dados and the butt joint of the 1/4" exterior sheet. The heavy horizontal chunk is for drawer slides. The skinny vertical piece is for adhesion surface for the interior/exterior ply.



The lower-left "meat" is for the headboard dados and the 45º is for adhesion of the interior/exterior skins.

But the biggee was cutting the ceiling shelf from the skeletons. With my other builds, I had used a jigsaw. On this one, I used my plunge base and Rockler's router guide so it had my full attention.



I think it took me four passes per skeleton but they are nice and plumb. I'd choose this method again and it was a good warm-up for when I cut the hatch ends.




Tony

[Atomic77]

#4 and it shows. You are streamlining your process. Nice work with the plunge router.

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[Tom&Shelly]

But the biggee was cutting the ceiling shelf from the skeletons. With my other builds, I had used a jigsaw. On this one, I used my plunge base and Rockler's router guide so it had my full attention.



I think it took me four passes per skeleton but they are nice and plumb. I'd choose this method again and it was a good warm-up for when I cut the hatch ends.




Tony

Nice! What is the bit diameter?

Tom

[tony.latham]

But the biggee was cutting the ceiling shelf from the skeletons. With my other builds, I had used a jigsaw. On this one, I used my plunge base and Rockler's router guide so it had my full attention.



I think it took me four passes per skeleton but they are nice and plumb. I'd choose this method again and it was a good warm-up for when I cut the hatch ends.




Tony

Nice! What is the bit diameter?

Tom

1/4” spiral upcut. The offcuts should be the correct height for the spar blocking now.

T


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[noseoil]

Tony, very nice approach to this one. Looks like those "few" previous builds are paying off on the latest. A router really is the "poor man's CNC milling machine" with the ability to do setup work & tooling for so many things. Looking forward to the build & finished results! Will be curious to see the finish with your new coating system.

[tony.latham]

Will be curious to see the finish with your new coating system.

Which reminds me, I need to order fiberglass and epoxy today. I'll do the walls on the bench.

T

[Tomterrific]

I think I got this tip from Harold Payson. When using resin and fiberglass tape to strengthen a joint, cut the tape on a bias. The fibers of the tape will both be across the joint instead of only one fiber. So obvious yet I never thought of it.

Great job Tony and really fine workmanship. I so admire folks who aren't a hack builder like myself.

Tt

[tony.latham]

I think I got this tip from Harold Payson. When using resin and fiberglass tape to strengthen a joint, cut the tape on a bias. The fibers of the tape will both be across the joint instead of only one fiber. So obvious yet I never thought of it.

Great job Tony and really fine workmanship. I so admire folks who aren't a hack builder like myself.

Tt

There's a great thread on that:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=34887&p=633840

I followed that advice on my first build. I'll be able to add a bit more radius to the corners with this build and that should help.

T

[swoody126]

DUCKWORKS BBS sells the bias cut fiberglass tape by the yard or by the roll

https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/fib-biax-parent.htm

a BTW, i used2 use West System stuff exclusively but have been using DuckWorks recently w/ excellent service provided

the RAKA Epoxy they sell has a UV inhibitor & a BLUSH resistor in it as well as being considerably le$$ co$tly

and i personally feel it doesn't smell as strong as West System stuff does(butt i only use any of that type of products in WELL VENTILATED AREAS)

i have also started using their WOOD FLOUR as a filler as i'm using up my West fillers and unless i need the glass strand filler i'm thinking i'll stick w/ the flour for filing n fairing

[tony.latham]

DUCKWORKS BBS sells the bias cut fiberglass tape by the yard or by the roll

https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/fib-biax-parent.htm

a BTW, i used2 use West System stuff exclusively but have been using DuckWorks recently w/ excellent service provided

the RAKA Epoxy they sell has a UV inhibitor & a BLUSH resistor in it as well as being considerably le$$ co$tly

and i personally feel it doesn't smell as strong as West System stuff does(butt i only use any of that type of products in WELL VENTILATED AREAS)

i have also started using their WOOD FLOUR as a filler as i'm using up my West fillers and unless i need the glass strand filler i'm thinking i'll stick w/ the flour for filing n fairing

Thanks on that Duckworks source. I'll probably punch the button.

I've been using Raka for a long time. I don't need their UV resistant stuff but maybe the anti-blush stuff.

Tony