Thanks, guys.
I know I'm not really asking for feedback here, but if anyone wants to chime in, feel free to do so.
I may respond to something with a very blunt, "I can't do that because of [insert complication / conflict]," but don't take it as an insult or me dismissing the suggestion/idea. It's just how I respond some times, after putting considerable thought into something, deciding it is not viable, and then having the subject brought up again. When I'm not long-winded, I'm short and to the point.
Yesterday's "revisions" and "different layout" were non-viable. Glad I worked through them, but it turned out to be a cul-de-sac that sent me back where I started.
tony.latham wrote:That's some serious 3D modeling.
Is that the mattress drawn in? Make sure the bottom of your door openings are half-way into the mattress so that you sit on the mattress, not the top of the door opening.
T
Yes, that's a representation of a mattress. It lost its label when copied. I intend to find or assemble a multi-layer foam pad. As such, thickness is not set quite yet. Based on my experience, I figured 5-6" was a safe bet for thickness.
I appreciate the suggestion to keep the door sill below the top of the mattress. I had seen that advice around here several other times (probably from you), and kept it in mind.
The door type, sill height, and size are not set, though. I don't want to make a decision there until I know what I'm doing for windows. It would be rather unfortunate, for example, if I were to decide that a 26" door width was adequate, start cutting, and then come across a screaming deal on a pair of 24" wide windows.
About all I have nailed down for the door right now is that it will be hinged within 2" of the forward bulkhead. - With this design, anyway.
The mattress and door are also related to Aguyfromohio's reply.
Aguyfromohio wrote:Great paper model, that sort of effort pays off big time.
Have you cut out scale human figures yet? That really helps to get a feel for the size of things.
Our paper doll set had them in a standing position and a sitting position to better understand the galley, entry door and interior while we were planning.
I haven't done anything with paper dolls or figures. I considered it, but opted for quite a bit of real life mock-up and measuring.
Some of yesterday's mock up goes back to the mattress...
I discovered that a table that I leg-chopped and rebuilt as a drawing table (with storage) for the kids was a dead-ringer for the cabinet overhang at the foot of the bed. My wife and I slid our legs under it, laid down, moved around a bit, and discovered that it's too tight. Foot room wasn't much of a problem. But we kept bashing our shins and knees. It might not be as big of an issue with an 80" mattress, but I shaved the space here to a hair over 74" when I shortened the whole trailer by 6".
So, the rear, interior cabinets (with furnace) need to go back up to a more reasonable height. (To reduce frequency of the events, but allow more acceleration of the leg and make the impact much more painful when it does happen.)
I don't remember when the cabinets moved down, or why I thought I could get away with just 15-16" of clearance; or if it was just a mistake made at some point - such as possibly drawing in the cabinets before the mattress and not realizing the discrepancy.
But, it's gotta be fixed!
We'll see what that does to the "galley" cabinets, as they somewhat have to follow the interior. I have to have access to the furnace wiring and propane connection from the back side.
...Unless the furnace is on the other side, but then there's a longer, more complicated propane run.
...Unless I move the furnace back to the front (it's been there before), where the propane run and wiring are nearly ideal; but then it's next to my head and installation/repair access requires some removable cabinetry. ...Because it has to go on the left side, if up front, in order to not create the potential for melting/burning the door if left open with the furnace on; which puts the propane and wiring connections forward.
I'm sure you guys know how it goes.
So, let's continue:
I'd really like to elevate the bed by about 6", to include under-bed storage and simplify other storage areas. But if I'm doing that, I might as well eliminate wheel well intrusion into the sleeping area, which requires 9" of elevation (from the frame - ~7.75" from the current floor). I just can't convince myself that the extra height necessary is the right thing to do. This thing is already set to be pretty tall for what it is. I have already calculated roof height, without the vent, to be 67-68".
Adding another 9" of height would be pushing 80"+ with a vent, which makes me uncomfortable and could be disadvantageous on some roads (lots of leaning trees / low branches). But, possibly more importantly, it would put the mattress top 33-34" off the ground ... on level ground. On uneven ground, which is very frequently encountered where I camp, we could be looking at a non-viable 40" to the mattress. That problem is easily solved with a step; but that's another thing that must be considered in the trailer design, and/or hauled around everywhere the trailer goes and leveled before use.
The extra height leads to a debate about availability of materials and methods for skinning, as well.
And, lest we forget, more weight!
Juggler of 471 things, master of ... wait, I started with 1,000!