Tukanu wrote:I realize this question has been asked a thousand times, but I am looking for opinions about my specific suspension.
MAYBE A MILLION...
My frame seems to be fairly light…no more so than a HF 4x8. I would guess it is about 200# because I can lift a corner. The welder estimated the capacity at 1,200 lbs. There are two leafs. There is 4 ½” of travel up to the frame. 3/8” U-bolts hold the axel in place. There is a
post on the SPRING that mates with the
hole in the AXLE. With the weight of the sidewalls and floor in place, there is no movement in the springs…even when I stand over the axel and jump up and down.
THE AXLE MANUFACTURER BUILT IT STRICTLY FOR MOUNTING AS SHOWN IN PIC #1
AXLES ARE
TYPICALLY NOT STRAIGHT PIECES OF TUBING
AXLES ARE SLIGHTLY ARCHED UP IN THE MIDDLE(HARD TO SEE IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR) TO ACCOMMODATE THE WEIGHT OF THE TRAILER PRESSING DOWN INSIDE THE POINTS WHERE THE TIRES REST/RUN ON THE GROUND
THE UPWARD PRESSURE FROM THE TIRES IS CALCULATED TO STRAIGHTEN THE AXLE TUBE ITSELF PROVIDING A PERPENDICULAR POSITIONING OF THE TIRE ON THE GROUND UNDER LOAD
THIS POSITIONING PROVIDES EVEN WEAR OF THE TIRES
IF THERE IS NO ARCH AND THE AXLE TUBE BOWS UNDER LOAD YOUR TIRES WILL WEAR ON THE INSIDE FIRST AND PULL A BIT WONKY
HERE IS A QUOTE FROM E-TRAILER.COM
https://www.etrailer.com/question-154877.htmlAND A PIC OF WHAT THEY ARE/I AM TALKING ABOUT
![img_73246_18_55af4579c9916bb7308868788f58af58.jpg](./download/file.php?id=26047&sid=39a2c9d29ed32c57167945c08184edab)
- img_73246_18_55af4579c9916bb7308868788f58af58.jpg (36.2 KiB) Viewed 7135 times
The build, so far, also seems to be light. I am sure it will be between 600# 700# (with chassis) when complete. Add a hundred lbs when fully loaded, and I would still be under 800#.
WE CAN ALL DREAM ABOUT HOW MUCH WEIGHT WE WILL CARRY IN A TRAILER
BUTT LIFE DICTATES MOST FOLKS WILL HAUL EVERYTHING THAT CAN POSSIBLY FIT INTO THE CAVITY CREATED
I have attached a couple of pictures of my axel and spring.
The bottom of the sidewalls is 19” off the ground. Flipping the axel would drop the body a few inches, but would reduce the travel to the fame down to about 2”.
Here are my options:
1. Do nothing and live with the high clearance.
RECOMMENDED
2. Flip it and hope the u-bolts don’t snap.
THURNIG THE AXLE TUBE UPSIDE DOWN WILL POTENTIALLY CAUSE PREMATURE TIRE WEAR/FAILURE
3. Beef up the u-bolts and plate.
THE WEIGHT OF THE BUILD RESTS ON THE AXLE(IN STOCK/INTENDED POSITION) AND THE U-BOLTS ARE SIMPLY POSITION HOLDING DEVICES NOT LOAD BEARING DEVICES
4. Finish the built and duck-tape a raw egg above the axel to see if there is enough travel to smash the egg .
YOUR TRAILER BUILDER/MANUFACTURER PROVIDED YOU W/ SLIPPER SPRINGS WHICH PROVIDES LOWER FRAME POSITIONING THAN SHACKLE MOUNTED SPRINGS
THE ONLY OPTION FOR LOWERING THE DECK AS I CAN SEE IS TO CHANGE THE WHEEL/TIRE CONFIGURATION TO PROVIDE YOU W/ A SMALLER DIAMETER
REMEMBER REDUCING THE TIRE DIAMETER BY 2" ONLY LOWERS THE DECK BY 1"(1/2 THE DIAMETER)
OR LIVE WITH IT AS DESIGNED/BUILT