Is Lockwood water soluble the brand you went with? Applied with rag and one wiped coat?
bartek wrote:Thanks
Spars are 1.5 x 0.75 (made of whatever cheap generic wood they had at HD at the time) 8 inches apart. Skin is 2 layers of 1/8 on top, 1 layer of 1/8 on the bottom
For the router jig - I don't have a good photo, but this may help illustrate it.
It's basically a 3/4 plywood board with the desired profile cut out such that you can follow it with a top bearing router bit.
There is a perpendicular board (I just used 1.5x0.75) attached to it to help align the bottom of the spar being rounded, and then another piece of 3/4 plywood on the side of it to make clamping of the spar easier/faster.
You clamp the board to the jig as shown in the picture and then just run it with the router bit set to the desired depth- takes only few seconds.
In the photo you see the spar on the bottom, and the "side board" it's clamped to is on top
bartek wrote:To support the length of the trailer, I added a set of supports in the back and front. I'm not quite sure if it's an overkill, but I figured since the trailer overhangs 18 inches to the back, I wanted it well supported. The whole thing is screwed to the metal frame and supported from the bottom on 3 1x1 metal tubes.
I did something similar on the front side, except it's only 6 inches long and has a cut out for what's supposed to be a tongue box.
Before attaching, the 2x4s facing the metal frame and the bottom plywood was covered with Henrys's roofing patch (what a mess by the way)
This picture from the design probably best explains what I did (it only shows 2 of the 3 tubes, the third one was added in the center):
veedabowlu wrote:bartek wrote:To support the length of the trailer, I added a set of supports in the back and front. I'm not quite sure if it's an overkill, but I figured since the trailer overhangs 18 inches to the back, I wanted it well supported. The whole thing is screwed to the metal frame and supported from the bottom on 3 1x1 metal tubes.
I did something similar on the front side, except it's only 6 inches long and has a cut out for what's supposed to be a tongue box.
Before attaching, the 2x4s facing the metal frame and the bottom plywood was covered with Henrys's roofing patch (what a mess by the way)
This picture from the design probably best explains what I did (it only shows 2 of the 3 tubes, the third one was added in the center):
I am also planning to widen and extend the NT 5 X 8 trailer... I can see what you did for the front and rear... did you do something similar to widen it on the sides of the frame?... If so, can you show some pictures of it?
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