NE Wisconsin Generic Benroy 5x8... my first!

[TimC]

Very nice build! I don't have the patience to build with that detail. Just out of curiosity, how much do you think it cost to build your camper if you don't mind my asking?

I am looking at having close to $3500 in mine by the time I am done and was just wondering if that was normal? I keep finding places where I say "it is just an extra $20 or extra $50." Those are starting to add up too. LOL.

$3405. I have a sick, anal habit of adding every dime to a spreadsheet.

Of course I have to "qualify" that amount since it was not all out of pocket cash expenses. Mainly, all the cedar galley cabinets and interior oak cabinets were made with lumber I had on hand. What's the value of that lumber? I don't know, probably a couple hundred dollars. The value of the labor to build the cabinets... ? The trailer cost me $1400. It is a custom made trailer by a local welder. Much of the floor framing and wall and roof framing lumber was also on hand, probably worth another hundred bucks. So, without considering labor on the cabinets I would say it is very close to your $3500.

The custom trailer... I would never do that again after starting #2 TD. #2 is a Northern Tool Ironton 5x8 with 1980# capacity and upgraded 13" wheels/tires. So far with the 1/4" aluminum billet hub spacers I'm still waiting for the cost is $700 for just the trailer. I coulda done a lot with the $700 extra blown on the custom trailer. I am totally impressed with the NT trailer. Harbor Freight trailers just seemed too light for me. I'm sure they are good for a TD build, I just didn't like how many of the reviews talked about missing parts and bolt holes not lining up. I also didn't want to deal with the folding parts of the HF trailer.

Good luck. Can't wait to see how yours comes along.

Tim

[TimC]

Looks like it's been almost three years since I updated this build journal, so, over the next few days I hope to add some photos of different enhancements I have done in that time.

I've added and upgraded and added some more in the area of solar panels and battery storage. In the process of adding a roof rack (yes, wood) I ordered a RougeRV wire grommet to bring the wires through in a weatherproof way. After receiving the grommet I was surprised it had no gasket or other means to waterproof the installation. I've used butyl in the past but it is messy and not the best method if you ever have to remove the item from a roof or wall. After a little research I found a way to make my own silicone gaskets. While I didn't document that task I did document making gaskets for the rack attachment point closure.

Making a silicone gasket is very straight forward. On a flat surface, in my case a glass cutting board, I laid out waxed paper. I drew an outline of the BougeRV grommet and filled the flange area inside that mark with 100% silicone. I wasn't concerned with the gasket being to uniform in height so I laid another piece of waxed paper on top then added the grommet, pushing down lightly until I was happy with the thickness of the gasket. Left over night it was good and firm the next day. I wasn't happy with one side's thickness so I added a bit more silicone and re-seated the grommet for one more day. The result was a very clean gasket which is easily trimmed with scissors. A little thicker than I intended, but, very useful nonetheless.



My rack has two countersunk 3/4" holes in each foot for a 1/4" bolt to tie it to the roof. After the success with the grommet gasket I thought I would try a similar method to make silicone plugs to seal this hole from water. I'll cover these little buggers with a piece of flattened PVC and a screw to hold them in place.



With the same forstner bit used to countersink the holes I drilled out about 3/16" deep into a peice of scrap ply. I sanded the ply smooth and sealed it first with clear enamel, then a coating of beeswax. I cut shims from a cereal box, piled the long skinny shims three high and then added a Hershey's kiss sized dollop of silicone into the center of each hole. Cover that with waxed paper and a flat glass cutting board and let it sit overnight. The wax paper peals away very nicely and the plugs pop out of the holes with a little tug. They fit perfectly in the countersunk holes and the flange that I left on each will seal the holes from water.





A low tech solution to hold the seals. Maybe I'll dream up something a little nicer looking down the road.


I hope this helps someone caught in the same situation. I didn't want to waste time making a claim for a gasketless grommet and this worked so well I think it will be better than most gaskets included with such items.

Tim

[TimC]

A month or so ago I added baby moon hubcaps to the TD. I love the look. It would probably look better with wheels painted a different color, but, that is an off-season project someday. I built eight collapsable tent poles with 3/4" PVC conduit and wood dowels. For less buggy times I bought two 10x13 rainfly tarps, sewed two of the long ends together to make one 20 x 13 tarp. I attached a Keder rope to one end to assist in installation and anchor that end.



After torrential rain on one trip last year I arrived at my destination to find one side of my mattress soaked. Wiley windows, I love them and struggle with them. But, I'm committed to them. After some thought I built two plugs to attach to the window for travel. I don't have trouble with the Wiley's when parked. The weep holes in the bottom have always drained the heaviest of rains when not at highway speeds. I don't always travel with them in, but, at the first sign of rain I stop and throw them in. Takes a couple minutes per window.





A simple construction sandwiching two pieces of ply together. Add a D shaped weather strip to the flange. Add a 1x3 bar with rabbets on the ends to fit the window. Throw together a knob with a threaded insert in the center and wallah!

[TimC]

Brakes... I should mention brakes. I was coming home from a trip pulling the TD with my wife's Ford Edge. At that time the teardrop axle has no brakes. It was near dark and a deer jumped out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and felt the weight of the TD pushing me forward. Not a reassuring feeling at all. I missed the deer! I decided I was installing brakes. It only weighed 1450# loaded at the time (I've added a few pounds (so has the TD). I didn't care what I was told about my trailer not needing brakes at that weight.

I had to have brake brackets added to the axle. Luckily I have a brother in law that is a skilled pipefitter. Adding brakes after that wasn't a big task, but, it was kinda pricey. I'm glad I spent the money as stopping is more controlled now. From the beginning folks have asked me "Can your car pull that thing?". At the time I had a Ford Focus, and no, I never pulled it with that. My response has always been... I'm not concerned with the capability of a vehicle to pull a trailer. I'm concerned that it can stop that trailer! Of course those of you that regularly trailer through mountains look at it a little differently, but, I bet stopping power is on your mind as well.

Another upgrade, my solar swivel... I've always had solar charging. First with two 20w panels hinged together with 36ah of battery bank, until I mistakenly placed them on the ground in front of a lady's car and she unexpectedly drove her car over them. I wanted to upgrade, but, not quite that way. I decided my panels don't belong on the ground anymore. So off to the workshop to rig up swivel I could mount on a piece of 3/4" EMT conduit. Yes, its wood. Pictured is a prototype to see how it worked. I've replaced everything with more weather resistant wood than MDF! Originally I had a 50w panel. That was returned for a 100w. And then another 100w and upgrade to 144ah battery bank to power my fridge.



My swivel in use on the tongue box. I now have two swivels with a 100w panel on each. Can't have enough panels you know...



The two 100w panels will live most of their life on the roof rack, especially during travel where they can be hooked up and charging. When I reach a site I will remove at least one and follow the sun across the sky every couple hours to maximize my energy production.

[Mr. Lahey]

That custom made silicone gasket trick is awesome. Going to file that away for future use when the need arises.

The rest of your build is beautiful.

[TimC]

Some more additions/enhancments to the TD.

11x11 side table for two gallon water jug. The jug was forever in my way on the counter top or precariously balanced on top of a cooler. I figure the shelf should easily hold a water jug estimated under 25 lbs. Baltic Birch from Menards was under four bucks (they still have these 1/2"x 20x20 cut offs available at most stores). Brackets for two shelves was under eight bucks shipped.




Used some stainless steel picture frame brackets. I like the simplicity and looks better than the aluminum side table brackets I have seen. Keyhole and screw method to attach support. I wasn't thrilled by the folded size with hinges. Though I could have redesigned so the folded support would fit flush, I just decided that a small piece of velcro will do.




I can mount it on either side of the TD galley. I'm in the process of building a similar shelf, slightly bigger to fit my one burner propane stove.

[TimC]

Doing some rework on Woodie #1. I've hated the tongue box I built to carry bikes since installing a couple years ago. I only carry one bike now and I usually put it inside the TV for security and keep it clean. The new ugly one was very good at storing what I wanted, but ugly.





So, I took out the old tongue box and looked it over. Two reasons for scraping it a couple years ago was it leaked and the top access door didn't open far enough to allow some items to be put inside. I modified the door so it will open wider and I am adding some extra trim and weather-strip to eliminate the water intrusion. I had some oops paint laying around so gave it a wash and new paint job. I'm looking at ultimately repainting the roof and tongue box NFS Green. This color is close but no cigar. It's actually a greenish grey but looks blue in this pic. The second pic is what I am going for (not mine).

[TimC]

Another reason for the new old tongue box is I am going to try a Jack-E-Up a-frame jack adapter. The old tongue box will allow easy installation. Pictured is the one my son just bought for his foamie.

[TimC]

Found the Jack-E-Up for under 60 bucks so snapped one up. Before that I did some measurements and made sure the trailer builder (a welding shop in Powers, MI) didn't weld the jack in place. While removing the jack I found one of the three bolts was broken and discovered a small amount of goo under the head. Wondering if he broke it off while installing and just glued the bolt head in place. I managed to get the threaded portion out and found that he probably did break the bolt as the threads were cutting a thread into the 2x3 tongue frame. The mount he welded on was a little off center. All is well and I've run a tap down to cut away anything that might restrict the bolts. Also used a shorter bolt which shouldn't reach down as far below the a-Frame mount.

On my tongue there is only one way to mount the adapter. Label forward. The holes don't line up in the other two orientations. Finish quality isnt top notch on this adapter base. Crappy hole profiles but plenty beefy for my needs.







Before final installation I'll kill some surface rust and repaint the tongue.

[TimC]

Being limited to staying home for the next month or two I decided to do a full on repaint job on the roof of my woodie. I removed the roof rack/solar panel rack. So happy to see the silicone gaskets I made worked well. No sign of water penetration through the roof. I then started to remove everything that was required to do a proper paint job. Still looking for a source for US Forest Service Green. Lots of blank stares from paint experts at Sherwin Williams, Menards, Ace and Nelson Paint. The guy at Sherwin Williams was especially impatient with me. Must have been having a bad day. It was as though I asked him to put on a mask or something!

The hatch handle is just a standard stair railing with a recess on the back side where the rope is stapled down. This design has worked well and is easy to remove for refinishing.




After six years of weather the back side of this railing is in fantastic shape.


The hatch was the scary part. A word to the wise if you are designing a hatch for your build. Avoid running wiring through the spars that the hinge attaches to. First time building mistake that I am dealing with. No a biggie, but on my son's foamie we avoided the nav lights in the hatch thing. Opting for a fixed bumper with all brake/taillight wiring running outside the hatch. I was very happy to see that after six years of spending summers outside in rain and occasionally snow that there was no sign of water penetration anywhere in the hinge area or any other hardware location. Even the brake/tail/turn lights which had a crappy manufacturer supplied gasket had no evidence of water.




As far as I can remove the hatch without a rewire job. I should have room to repaint without too much trouble.

[tony.latham]

The wax paper peals away very nicely and the plugs pop out of the holes with a little tug.

That is damn clever. Thanks for the tip.

Tony

[TimC]

Thanks Tony. My woodie, being my first teardrop, there were a few experimental bits. Some not so great but the homemade gaskets seem to have good results. Some photos showing almost two seasons of sealing against the weather. I'm repainting due to not liking the original color and, well I have time right now. The old paint has held up well.

The small silicone plugs kept water out of these bolt holes on the solar roof rack.


And larger versions helped seal the feet of the solar roof rack.




Silicone gaskets also did the job under the solar wire roof grommet

[TimC]

First coat finished. Bad lighting so the true khaki green doesn't show well. One more coat this evening and I'll let it rest a couple days and reassemble.

[TimC]

Putting the teardrop back together. Lining up the new aluminum stock with the original hatch hinge holes was fairly easy with a few short pieces of hanger wire to align everything. Going to pull the trailer out into the driveway on the next hot sunny day and give the screws a final torque when the butyl is warmed up.

[TimC]

I'm happy with the progress of my paint job and old tongue box modifications and install. A few more enhancements on the tongue box. Then adding a third brake/turn/tail light which required removing the canvas fabric on the underside of the hatch. Looking forward to some late summer and autumn trips.