Installing surge brakes on a 1,500-2,000lbs build

[Betonhaus]

I've been planning a trailer for some time and was originally going to do a superlightweight one, but at theis point it makes mre sense to follow the book for a more traditional build, making a trailer thta fully loaded would be at the upper range of my cars towing capacity, which is 2,000lbs - but onl if the trailer has breaks.

Since I'm teriified of mssing up my cars wring by trying to install electric brakes, and I want to make this trailer driveable with other cars, i was looking at surge brakes. But all i can find are heavy duty 7,000lb rated acutators and kits https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Actuator ... 7007K.html


Would that be fine or is there a source for lighter weight surge brake systems? Thanks.

[rjgimp]

The late 60s popup carcass I will be using for my build has surge brakes and I intend to keep them intact. They are very functional and I like how they work. Backing uphill can be a challenge because the weight of the trailer rolling back down the hill against you will want to trip the actuator. There is usually a switch or lever on the mechanism to deactivate it specifically for this reason.

The item in your link states a ***maximum*** capacity of 7000#. Although that may seem like overkill for your 1500#-2000# trailer it should work fine. Surge brakes, as long as they are well maintained, tend to be very linear. They will apply brake pressure very lightly under lighter trailer weight and light tow vehicle braking and will apply brakes very heavily under heavier application like a panic stop.

[gudmund]

other option - there are 3 'wireless' electric controllers that can be purchased from "E-trailers" for handling/controlling 'electric' trailer brake systems = without having to wire in a controller inside the tow vehicle. The one I am using only needed a single 10/12g wire run from the under-hood battery, than going under the vehicle to the 7-prone connector trailer plug-in (which I did myself). I control my brakes with a 'hand-held' that is plugged into the cig-lighter (it sends radio 'info' to the trailer mounted controller box) Mine is the 'Tekonsha Prodigy Wireless' (not cheap$$ around $400) another one is the 'Autobrake Wireless" ($$350.) and the 3rd one I know of is the 'Curt Echo Wireless' ($270) this one is if you use a smart phone being that is what you use as the controller. It basically just plugs into your 7-prong vehicle connecter with the trailer plugging into it, there is nothing needed to be mounted to the trailer (I, being of the 'NON-computer' illiterate age'ed had no interest in this one - but have read of it working very well)

[tony.latham]

Since I'm teriified of mssing up my cars wring by trying to install electric brakes

What's your tow vehicle?

Tony

[Betonhaus]

Since I'm teriified of mssing up my cars wring by trying to install electric brakes

What's your tow vehicle?

Tony

Fiesta ST

And sometimes a Rav4, or whoever sticks a hitch on their car.

[Betonhaus]

thanks for the advice, It gives me a little clearer picture on my trailer project.

[tony.latham]

Fiesta ST

I just threw a search on eTailer for a controller for a 2018 Fiesta and came up with this controller:

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Ford/Fiesta/2018/RED44FR.html?VehicleID=20186003538

It shouldn't be anything to fear.

Some folks, such as NoseOIl have opted to put the (normal) brake controller in the trailer, not the tow vehicle. If you are going to run multiple tow rigs, you might go that route.

Tony

[twisted lines]

Some wise one on this foarm installed his controller in a trailer box

[MickinOz]

I've had "surge brakes", we call them over-run brakes on my boat trailer for years.
Currently, if I decided to put brakes on 'Ol #1, I'd be able to get a full kit of disc brakes delivered to my house for A$350.
That'd be US$249 for the whole kit and kaboodle.

That'd be override coupling (actuator) with handbrake, mounting plate, cable, weld on caliper brackets, cable operate calipers, 10 inch discs, new wheel bearings, bolts and other hardware. All galvanised for marine work. Or, I can buy a hydraulic 9" drum brake kit for even less money. A$307

If you prefer not to break out the welder, a cable operated drum brake kit, complete with axle with all brackets already welded on, springs, u-bolts, everything needed to take out your old axle and bolt in the braked one is A$515.
Hydraulic kits can be had for less than $150 extra.

And they work well, as Rob says the harder you brake the car, the harder the trailer brakes work. And they work no matter what tow vehicle you hook up to.
My boat trailer will stop the car if I try to reverse up hill without the little latch flicked over. It's no biggie - the only place I need it is reversing into my driveway.

So, over here, I would not even think about electric brakes. Why bother? You either faff around putting the controller in the trailer and sorting out an independent supply for the electricity. or you have to wire up a controller in every vehicle you want to tow with.
The electric trailer brake kits aren't any more expensive, but the controllers (separate purchase) add considerable cost to that. In more modern vehicles its advisable to get them fitted by an auto electrician.

So I don't really understand a couple of things about the US.
1) If the OP's explorations are anything to go by, over-ride braking stuff isn't all that widely available
2) Seldom do over-ride brakes get a mention, despite their relative simplicity and economy.

Why is that? Here in Oz, they are kind of the way to go for DIY trailers up to, I think, 2.5 tons.

[MickinOz]

I just had s surf around Ebay.com
It slays me that there is noting on offer like this kit on Ebay.com.au
Would it be illegal or something?

Brake kit.JPG (132.6 KiB) Viewed 1014 times

[Betonhaus]

So how do these parts look?
https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Actuator ... 7007K.html - bare bones acutator that has a universal coupler for 1-7/8", 2", and 50mm balls
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes ... -35-D.html - hydraulic brake kit with a mechanism that stops it from engaging in reverse
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-a ... -EZ-K.html
About $375, but I'm not sure what I'm all missing. Probably hoses and clamps and the actual brake fluid. This seems to be a fairly cheap configuration that should work for anyone making a trailer up to 3.5k lbs.

[aggie79]

if you don't have your axle, or if you do, make sure that it has the brake mount flange for mounting drum brakes.

[tony.latham]

About $375...

I think it's about $435. The hubs are sold individually, not by the pair.

Tony