Grummy wrote:>>> as there is some ventilation?
"SOME", is not the immediate answer, as you really need to replicate the ability to circulate the same CFM in and out as it would if it were outside. Now that seems easy enough if you just measure the sq inches of the openings the unit already has, right ? But you have to realize that would be "Free Air" CFM, and outside does not have to address any drag or restriction caused by added duct work.
So, the obvious answer to that is to leave enough headroom (slightly larger ductwork and or less bends) to provide for that. And, if you can not, you add additional forced air methods to move air thru the condensor. Some might not want to add additional current draw with even more fans, but you either size up the ductwork or deal with the extra draw.
Propane tanks show up INSIDE all over in these builds be it right or wrong. Yes, bad things can happen if they overheat like: venting, catching a lick of flame and blowing up. Blevies are cool on youtube but I would not want to be there!
But it's no different really than a leak in a line leading inside the trailer anyhow. People who put them inside a small box create a small vent above for air inlet and a vent below for the propane to escape (it goes/flows down naturally). By the way, why so much propane with diesel heat options ?
Venting the room is pretty easy. Yes, small scoop.evac vents work while underway, but when stopped, there can be all sorts of options. First though, the minisplit needs a dedicated, ducted in and out. I dont like venting forward because it is harder to keep rain out into a 60mph headwind. So, I'd vent heated air out the bottom, and inlet air via the sides thru stainless vents. Check the marine industry... lots of beautiful stainless vents made for just that.
Hey, you might just crack both doors for starters, but I've seen whole floors removed or open, which I would not advise.. I'd make doors that open and close under there... and by the way, that section that is walled off ? Do not keep the same height as your trailer floor. Remove the floor up there and make an aluminum pan that sits down on the frame (corrosion protection between obviously). That way any drips or leaks can get out thru designated duck drains before it can ever reach floor height.
Crap... gotta go to work.... I'll look later if I covered everything.....
Wow, that is a lot to digest but great info. So ventilation is key, I think I can manage that. Changing out the flooring shouldn't be too hard and being able to open a floor hatch is very doable. Again, something I didn't even think about.
Just thinking out loud but since heat rises, wouldn't it be better to vent the heat out of the ceiling? I could install a a 14x14 ceiling fan with a cover like one of these:
https://www.campingworld.com/camco-vent-cover-white-94931.html?cgid=vent-covers and I know these work well at keeping rain out. I added one on my toyhauler after going through a storm and not being able to open the vent for fresh air. And then have a decent sized hatch on floor for fresh supply but will need to cover the opening with some kind of screen to keep critters out.
As far as 20lb tank, its also more about readily available replacements if out somewhere and need a refill. They can be found at just about any gas station but maybe 20lbs is overkill. I wasn't planning on installing a furnace so one less thing. I would probably go with a 12v fridge so propane not needed there as well. I was considering an on demand water heater so that would require propane. I will probably just have a sink, not sure about shower but leaning against that right now but hot and cold running water in sink would be nice. I was thinking maybe a 2 burner cooktop but don't want an oven. I never use the one in the toyhauler I have now anyway. I do have outdoor grills that get used the most and an easy way to hook up to propane for that would be a plus. And lately, I've been using a propane fire pit so I wouldn't mind having a quick disconnect on a longer propane hose to use with that. Those are much easier than wood fires.
And Im just now learning about the diesel space heaters. I like what I see over propane heaters especially about the lack of condensation building up. I think I will have to look into those a little further. But also as far as heat, I'm seeing that many of the mini splits are actually heat pumps and provide both cooling and heating. Since I usually dont go camping in single digits or sub zero, do you think that the mini split might be sufficient?
I'm kind of glad that I am just planning the conversion now as I will have plenty of time before next spring to get it ready. It is a lot easier working out as many details as possible upfront instead of having to go back and make changes. Especially once holes are made and studs cut. Right now I'm just looking a blank canvas ready to be created with no need to rush.