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Postby Geron » Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:30 pm

Gotta revise my opinion. There is no rotation in the axle tube where the rubber is located. The rotation is in the Spindle/hub/wheel. That's the balance point.

The spindle/hub/wheel would be centered on the 37.5% line.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it -- this time
Agree/disagree?

Geron
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:33 pm

Thanks Steve,

Torsion bar sounds good to me.

And I still design my trailers around the spindle, aka wheel center!

Mike...

sdtripper2 wrote:
mikeschn wrote:Okay, I am mixing up terms here.

The wheel center and the spindle are one and the same.

The center of the torsion shaft that articulates inside the rubber , is what I don't have a name for... :?

Image


Mike here is what I can find so far:

Image
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Postby sdtripper2 » Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:35 pm

Geron wrote:Ok,

Is the fulcrum the center of the wheel or the center of the Axle tube.

So the inset from the back of the trailer 37.5% does that center the Wheel/Spindle (same thing) or does it center the axle tube.

Lets get a consensus here :thinking:

Got the sides marked and cut out and am about the build the floor. Gotta Know. I'm still guessing centering on the Axle even though the wheels are offset from the axle. The weight of the trailer rotates around the axle shaft not the Wheel/spindle. Am I thinking straight?

I'm using the terminology as per the diagram of sdtripper2

Geron


My opinion:
Well, from my estimation I would say everything fulcrums from the center of the wheel.
As seen here in Andrews drawing http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear81.htm
Look @ the C measurement in his link above to see if you concur?

So I would want my center based on the where the center of the wheel / spindle is.

So putting the Spindle as the point you want to meet your balance measurements seems like the right answer.

Image

Lets see if others agree Geron?
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Postby sdtripper2 » Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:47 pm

Geron:

Your decision to go with 37.5% from the back of your trailer, it is based on
what factors?

Door placement & fender placement considerations?

Tongue weight?

Galley weight?
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Postby Geron » Fri Jan 19, 2007 7:53 pm

sdtripper2 wrote:Geron:

Your decision to go with 37.5% from the back of your trailer, it is based on
what factors?

Door placement & fender placement considerations?

Tongue weight?

Galley weight?


Based it on Andrew's spread sheet for the "Best Compromise" for a tear. Placed the wheel on the cutout side at the mounting point to see if the door would open -- it does. Appears to be room for a fender. I'll do some more lookkng a measuring.

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Which Red Trailer model to use for 5' x 8' Cubby?

Postby jdr » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:02 pm

I want to build a 5'-wide teardrop using the Cubby plans modified to accomodate the greater width. The T & TTT forum suggests the Red Trailer SJ 8512 model, but the Red Trailer website lists the SJ 8534 as the 5' x 8' teardrop frame. It looks like the 8512 weighs about 80lbs less (263lbs) than the 8534 (343lbs), so I'd love to be able to use the 8512 to reduce the overall weight of the finished trailer. Do you think Red Trailer recommends the 8534 because it is not a folding trailer, has a little bit higher load capacity (30lbs), and a higher (90lbs) gross axel weight rating? I'm looking to make my trailer as light as possible but still want the extra room afforded by a 5'-wide design. Does anyone see a downside to using the Red Trailer 8512 instead of the 8534? Thanks!

Jill :thinking:
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Tractor Supply Co Model SKU #1000215 GVWR- 1500 lbs Tip:

Postby starleen2 » Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:30 pm

Tractor Supply Co Model SKU #1000215 GVWR- 1500 lbs Tip: the trailer tongue mounts to the trailer at only two points with hardened bolts. When I built my camper using this trailer, it became oblivious that these two bolts were the only things holding the tongue bar to the trailer assembly. I guess this was a design feature to allow for a tilt bed feature. Upon the completion of the camper and the first trial run, I noticed that there was considerable movement between the two bolts and pivoting within the joint. The 2X2 angle iron on the frame was also flexing. Every movement of the camper made the two joints jump and pivot like a see-saw. To remedy this, I welded the points were the bolts passed through the tongue and angle iron connections. BE SURE TO REMOVER THE TRAILER WIRING HARNESS FROM THE TUBING BEFORE WELDING! This eliminated the problem.
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Red Trailer Discount

Postby S. Heisley » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:20 pm

FYI: In some emails, the Red Trailer Discount is shown as 5% and this may have been so at one time. However, now, when you follow the advised links to the site, Red Trailer gives just $5 off... if you sign up for email offers.
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Re: Red Trailer Discount

Postby sdtripper2 » Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:41 pm

S. Heisley wrote:FYI: In some emails, the Red Trailer Discount is shown as 5% and this may have been so at one time. However, now, when you follow the advised links to the site, Red Trailer gives just $5 off... if you sign up for email offers.



Welcome to the Forum S. Heisley :)

Thank you for the input on the change from the 5% coupon to the $5 buck
coupon. Everything changes and this is just one more instance.

I have made the appropriate change on the start of this thread.

I see this is your first post ... Again welcome to the forum.
If you please go over here and introduce yourself to the gang ~ :thumbsup:
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Postby S. Heisley » Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:06 pm

jdr posted: The T & TTT forum suggests the Red Trailer SJ 8512 model, but the Red Trailer website lists the SJ 8534 as the 5' x 8' teardrop frame. It looks like the 8512 weighs about 80lbs less (263lbs) than the 8534 (343lbs), so I'd love to be able to use the 8512 to reduce the overall weight of the finished trailer. Do you think Red Trailer recommends the 8534 because it is not a folding trailer, has a little bit higher load capacity (30lbs), and a higher (90lbs) gross axel weight rating? I'm looking to make my trailer as light as possible but still want the extra room afforded by a 5'-wide design. Does anyone see a downside to using the Red Trailer 8512 instead of the 8534?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi, Jill: I am also researching Red Trailers and have some information that might help you or anyone else considering which one to purchase.
I was researching the difference between the 8531 and 8534; however, the 8512 appears to be identical to the 8531 except for the color. 8512/8531 even share the same instruction manual and parts order sheet. So, when I phoned to further question the differences, here is what was confirmed:

8534 is $50 more in cost
----- is 80 lbs. more in weight
----- allows for 110 lbs more for axle weight
----- Allows for 110 lbs more in gross vehicle weight rating
----- Frame is 1" wider and 2" longer
----- Has 9" more deck to coupler clearance
----- Has no stake holes or stake supports (eh...who cares?!)
----- Has a longer & stronger tongue & is attached farther under the frame
----- Crossmbrs are pre-welded in place (8512/31's must be bolted on)

The fellow I talked to at the Red Trailer main office said that the superior tongue length and strength and the strength of the welded crossmembers were definite reasons to choose the 8534 for Teardrop trailer building.

S.
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possibility?

Postby waffle » Thu May 28, 2009 1:41 pm

fresh newbie here:

The local Bi-Mart has a Victory Land Utility Trailer Kit for $199. It looks like the cousin to the Harbor Freight. I cannot find any other info on it (yet)

There is an image and link to it on the front of their circular:

http://adserver1.harvestadsdepot.com/po ... ss/bimart/

I may visit this pm and see if I can get the specs for it.

Yes, I know you get what you pay for but it sure does look the part.[/img]
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Postby Lou Park » Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:35 am

Bi-mart? Is that a San Francisco paper?
(sorry, just had too)
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Postby Cliffmeister2000 » Tue Sep 21, 2010 11:51 pm

And costs significantly more.

Are you a spammer?
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Sep 22, 2010 12:46 am

Which ever one do yourself a big favor and reinforce the tongue with a 2x2 x 1/4 square tube.

I would advise taking it all the way to the rear. I know , I know it adds weight. Setting on the side of the road with a failed tongue is no fun either.

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adding 15 to 18 inches to the length significantly improves road manners and makes backing a great deal easier.
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Trailer

Postby BrandonCormier » Thu Apr 28, 2011 3:10 pm

I have a pop-up camper trailer that I want to build on. Pro's-Con's?
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