wiring electrical AC and DC ---Pictures please?

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby Miriam C. » Wed May 21, 2008 5:43 pm

:applause: :thumbsup: Thanks Mary K. You do the nicest work. :)
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Postby jss06 » Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:42 am

I picked up one of these for $30 on ebay.

http://www.iotaengineering.com/idp30.htm

Handles both 120v and 12v power distribution. I will use it for wiring my trailer when I get to that point.
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Postby Miriam C. » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:26 pm

:o Now that looks useful. How about you remember to take pictures and come back to post as you do it. 8)
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(a hint---bookmark the page)
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Postby wlooper89 » Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:22 pm

My album shows mostly electrical things as I have a Little Guy that arrived with only AA battery lights and no electrical system. So this has been my focus to date. Some of the pics have descriptions or comments that describe the wiring arrangement or source of parts. The generic Benroy plans also offer a very nice way of doing the electrical system. Wish I had looked at those before doing mine. But generally I am happy with my result. Anyway I can say that I pretty much made it up myself with a lot of help from this group. :)

Bill
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Postby Steve F » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:46 am

Here's mine. Only 12v no 240v (Aussie so not 120v)

The battery (100AH fully sealed AGM) is in the galley under the bench with a marine switch panel to turn on the main sections of power. For something a little different the battery and panel are on a draw slide for easy access to the wiring. It will lock in place by via a latch on the side accessed by taking out the draw next to it. Anway, the pics.

Three separate circuits, each with it's own circuit breaker. Switches etc are all splash proof. There are also two power points, one is a hella plug to run my compressor fridge (Waeco 50lt, fits on top of the bench or just on the ground, when traveling its in the Jeep), the other is a standard cigarette lighter style.

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Battery tiedowns not on yet, the draw slides in on to some additional nylon runners under it to take the load off the runners themselves on the bumps etc.

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The wiring in the TD itself is split into the 3 circuits and can be turned on individually at the rear panel and obviously switched at each light point etc.

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Steve
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Postby Miriam C. » Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:59 am

:thumbsup: Thanks Steve. You have an amazing set up there. I think I will copy it when I get time.
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Postby Larwyn » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:11 am

Mine is no showpiece but here's a shot of the AC side;

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And here's the DC side;

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Postby bobhenry » Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:39 am

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4 DC circuits right side left side front and galley breaker / disconnect on left then 4 15 amp glass fuses all grounds return to grounding bar on far right. Ain't fancy but it was cheap security.

And I know the wood box is probably not fireproof :lol:
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Postby wlooper89 » Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:05 pm

Wow, beautiful work all around! Wish I could build cabinets like that. Some really nice setups.

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Postby brian_bp » Wed Aug 20, 2008 2:16 pm

Steve F wrote:...The battery (100AH fully sealed AGM) is in the galley under the bench with a marine switch panel to turn on the main sections of power. For something a little different the battery and panel are on a draw slide for easy access to the wiring...

Very slick setup! :applause:

Not considering whether or not the wiring consequences of the moving panel might be a concern, the mounting setup is compact, accessible, and just clever.
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Postby Mary K » Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:06 pm

brian_bp wrote:
Steve F wrote:...The battery (100AH fully sealed AGM) is in the galley under the bench with a marine switch panel to turn on the main sections of power. For something a little different the battery and panel are on a draw slide for easy access to the wiring...

Very slick setup! :applause:

Not considering whether or not the wiring consequences of the moving panel might be a concern, the mounting setup is compact, accessible, and just clever.


All ya have to do is make a large loop of the wires and wrapped them this spiral wrap.
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And the drawer should open without any damage to wires or connections. we do it all the time here at work for our instruments that slide in and out of the racks.

Mk
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Postby wlooper89 » Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:25 pm

Mary K wrote:All ya have to do is make a large loop of the wires and wrapped them this spiral wrap.


That looks great. My electrical compartment lid has wires going into it that I would like to be flexible yet neat. Can you suggest a source for this spiral wrap?

Thanks! Bill
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Postby Mary K » Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:41 pm

Home Depot has it. There are different sizes available depending on wire size and number of wires you are covering.

I also used it under my trailer to keep wires from rubbing against the metal frame. :thumbsup:

Mk

Here is a Pic from work. You can see how it is used with wire ties or zip ties.

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Zip Ties
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Postby Steve F » Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:46 pm

brian_bp wrote:
Steve F wrote:...The battery (100AH fully sealed AGM) is in the galley under the bench with a marine switch panel to turn on the main sections of power. For something a little different the battery and panel are on a draw slide for easy access to the wiring...

Very slick setup! :applause:

Not considering whether or not the wiring consequences of the moving panel might be a concern, the mounting setup is compact, accessible, and just clever.


I'll also be using that spiral wrap, realistically though the draw will only be pulled out when it comes time to charge the battery. To get around this requirement I'm thinking of getting a 30A socket (overkill really as my charger is 16A but better to be safe) and mounting that somewhere, along with a 30A plug and chopping the battery clamps off my charger and putting the plug on instead so I can just plug it into the socket and charge through that. It will also give me a high amperage output as well if I need it. This way the draw will never need opening other than for the occasional maintenance check :)

Cheers
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Postby jplock » Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:26 pm

Here are some hightlights of the electrical work on the windsong TD

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Here is the inlet
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Here is the wiring bundle for trailer lights and 110 volt inlet feeder
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Here is the basic panel
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Making panel connections
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shown is the raceway wiring coming up from below the floor.
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Progress! Notice labels to help in any future troubleshooting.
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Battery in tongue box construction
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More battery storage pictures
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Finished battery box
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Completed power panel with digital voltmeter and 30 amp Ammeter to monitor battery usage and charge. There is also a 15 amp breaker for 110 vac shore power an GFGI outlet and 12VDC outlet. The switches work interior and exterior 12 volt lights. DC connection to either 12 VDC automobile electrical system or TD Battery if automobile battery switch and the TD battery switch are both in the on position the TD battery will be charged off the automotive electrical system. There is also a switch that turns the digital voltmeter on and off to save the 9 volt battery that runs it. There is also a switch that controls a 175 wat invertor to run small electronics. I have been using this for two years without any problems.

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