Offroad designe useing a harbor freight trailer,yes it works

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Offroad designe useing a harbor freight trailer,yes it works

Postby slowcowboy » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:55 pm

Hello folks ever conserdered what a heavly modified harbor freight trailer can offer up to the world of off road teardrops. My new build can demostrate a off road tear. I am not rock crawling but I do back road trailes in the windriver moutains in wyoming and would love to show what is possible with a gas shock and a pop up camper 3500 lb axle replacement on a harbor freight frame. beef it up with some heavy gauge angle iron some retired welder, fabercator dad know how and a decent bulldog hitch and some common sense size light truck mud and snow tires 215/75/r 15 all terrain bf good rich tires and it is possible to get a harbor freight trailer frame to be made into a off road trailer. I have camped in this the summer of 2009 and drove over 500 miles of off road dirt roads in the windriver moutains above lander wyoming and down a few jeep trailes I should not have been even backed the tear in between a couple of trees to turn around on a washed out jeep trail and have had no complaints on a harbor freight frame going off road. I would love to past photos in this post but my paster is out giving me tec difficulties on my computer so feel free to look at my harbor freight trailer off road design on my personal album under slowcowboy. I am just waiting on summer 2010 to try out the newly added roof rack and my jon boat with my off road design I can get into some high hard to reach small lakes that are jon boat size and way off the beaton track. My question on this post is. Has anyone else used a harbor freight trailer for a off road teardrop?
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Postby High Desert » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:09 am

hey I think thats great. One tough looking tear you've built there too. Did you upgrade the springs also or are they the stock HF ones?

And you're pulling it through some of the most magnificent country in the world 8)
Shaun

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Postby slowcowboy » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:38 am

Hello, yes, I did upgrade. lets just say and to be honest. I been lurking on this site for 2 years and I took all you great folks really good advise. I just could not see myself on what is a yearly tradition my yearly vacation to rifle colorado to visit my old highschool buddy pulling a trailer with tiny 12 inche harbor freight wheels that have a tag on them saying not to go over 55 mph, traveling 360 miles one way to colorado from my home in wyoming. I wanted in my design to be able to do this pulling my tear as well as be able to hit some rough off road wash boardy and two track roads in my wind river moutains. So First I bought a old popup camper trailer that I demolished for the parts. The springs are the bettor or tougher ones that were under the popup camper. the axle was a 3500 lb one and the hubs on the wheels were no good to me being 4 hole werid size of what was a very uncommon rv trailer wheel looked like a fat boy verison of a harbor freight 8 inch. I scraped this for a five hole 7 inch electric brake drum and fitted that to a 1987 ford ranger rim with a good off road or light truck mud and snow tires. One very important move I made was to add on to this suspension was the gas monroe rv shocks that larry sorresnon with off road teardrop web site recomened. I would add these to my horse trailers if I could in the future. takes all the bounce out of a trailer on wash boards on dirt roads. My dad when he came up with the rebuild supinson designe to modify the harbor freight trailer was able to weld on a pair of bolts to the spring shackle bolts. these were off the pop trailer and were not stock to it. they had been modified on the pop trailer before I got it and were way heavy dutty made out of good thick all threads type bolts. the plate they attached to under the springs was a modifed heay guage plate to. I think the springs were standard rv ones to the popup trailer but would not swear to it. I love the ride on the tear though with the wheels moved to clear the door more to the back it pulls like a dream. Dad cured the beefing up the frame as well as the joint as it is a folding harbor freight desigene with the heavy guage angle irone. this is bolted on with lots of bolts to make it removable from the trailer if ever a nessity. I now use the tiny 12 inch wheels I took off the harbor freight trailer to move my john boat around to load and unload it in my pickup or my suv. I am very well pleased with this wheel and supison modicication to my habor freight trailer. and the axle from the pop up camper was sized down to fit by only welding on new spring mounting brackets or seats. this also made my 4 wide tear way more stable with a wider axle when pulling off road. If you are building a tear to go off road. I also highly recomend this gas shocks addition to your teardrop camper build. they are un livable when off roading. And they make a tear pull wonderful on a paved road.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Postby slowcowboy » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:43 am

Hey. folks Sorry about my spelling it was not my great spot in school or college and don't write a lot when I ranch or drive a truck for a living so my spelling has gone to heck since I left college in 1999. I think I bettor proff read my post more before I post them. slowcowboy.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Postby High Desert » Sun Feb 14, 2010 2:42 am

thanks for the details. Sounds like it works well. Did you make any mods to the tounge assembly or is it still stock other than the bulldog hitch? (which I think is a great addition)
Shaun

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Re: Slowcowboy post of 021410 RE: spelling

Postby mezmo » Sun Feb 14, 2010 4:02 am

Hi Slowcowboy,

Congrats on your build, it's nice when time and effort
finally produce great results.

Even though I haven't posted a lot due to being relatively
new to T&TTT, I have a hint regarding spelling and posting.

I'm a mediocre speller myself but my even bigger problem is
that my hands are too big for me to type easily on my keyboard,
this results in a lot of typos, and I mean a lot of typos!. The little
box used to post replies and new topics in makes easy posting
hard for me.

What I do is open a file on my word processing program,
like Word, or Open Office etc. Just use whatever word processing
is on your computer. I then type in my posting text there. Just
be sure there is a spell check feature in the word processing
program and run it on what you've written for your post. It can
be a little tedious at first but it helps immensely and after awhile
it helps one make fewer mistakes.

I then just highlight all the copy I want to post, copy it usually
using the <Ctrl C> function and then go to the little posting
box on the T&TTT site and use the <Ctrl V> function to paste
it in the box. You can then clean up what you don't like about the
posting's appearance in the little box. It seems there are always
stray spaces when you copy and paste but this has really helped
me make my posts easier to do.

'Hope this helps some.
Last edited by mezmo on Sun Feb 14, 2010 4:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Slowcowboy post of 021410 RE: spelling

Postby mezmo » Sun Feb 14, 2010 4:02 am

Oops, it posted twice somehow so I removed the second one (I hope!).
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Postby Moosemt » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:46 pm

Slowcowboy,

Your build looks good I am in Billings starting on mine. Might pick your brain of some problems that come up while building.
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Postby slowcowboy » Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:23 pm

Well dang, i still can't post photos to my post as my past button on edit is still on the blink. I have yet to figure that one out to bad there wasnt a bettor way on here to stick a photo in ones post. Alot o my typos are due to bad typing and not using typing much since highschool. I will take the advise and try word proccessor and spell check. Be glad to let you pick my brain on teardrop problems. I am I will warn you still learning myself on the teardrop experance. The best thing I did for building a teardrop was simply to take it out on a camping trip and try it out before it was 2/3 built. It let me try out some of my building and ideas on my teardrop and see what I wanted to change and what didn't work as great. I highly recomend a test camping trip with just the shell of your teardrop built before all done and just regestered to go down the road and legal with a few simple trailer lights to get by with. Big wiring work like 120 volts and intor lights and such can be added later Use a simple 4 way plug to see what camping in your new trailer is like than add the brakes and 7 way plugs later and the rest of the bigger wiring jobs. I used led battery operated lights and found them a little dim so will be moving to 12 volt and a deep cyle battery I have the 12 volt lights wired in I am just waiting on installying my 120 volt convertor after I get done working on the side tent canopy idea that oasismacker gave the teardrop world. I am in the process of building my own recever tubes for the shelter logic idea and would like to thank oasismaker for such a good idea and plan to use it only for my personal teardrop and camping trips. Hats off to a great idea. it solved the side tent problem perfectly. Other advise is if you need help on a teardrops hit this website often and go though sdtripper2's Index it helps a lot. do some research on this teardrop site and these great folks on here are a moutain of good help. These fellow teardroppers on this forom can help save a lot of trouble on building one of these campers. hats off to the good folks on this site. I learned alot in my build with just reading and not commenting. Your all a great bunch of folks. :twisted:
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Postby urban5 » Wed Feb 17, 2010 12:05 am

I would love to know where you added the angle iron, I don't see it in your pics but it sounds like a good mod.
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Postby Moosemt » Wed Feb 17, 2010 12:46 am

Can you post some pictures of your offroad shock suspension for me to look at. thanks.
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Postby slowcowboy » Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:50 pm

Hello folks only modification to the tongue other than the aframe bulldog hitch, which I might add stiffened up the harbor freight trailer frame a lot was adding two light angles in front and back of the tongue box to hold it on. This angle was out of a metal bunk bed real light stuff and happened to be the same color of paint as the trailer so was just welded on to the tongue after positioning the angle and the tongue box and marking some lines with chalk. The real heavy duty angle is on the side of the frame. This is what my trailer springs are fastened to. The spring shacklers are welded to the angle iron. and my dad and me spent a hole afternoon doing some fabercating type of measuring down from the tongue on both sides to the axles on both sides to get it centered and lined up proper so the tires would track right and not wear wrong. We started with lineing up the angle iron and clamping it to the frame I wanted it just past the door to clear the door bottom with the fenders and the bigger tires. then I marked it and hit the drill press and bored out some holes. THen I reclamped it to the frame and out came a big one inch drill and a big bit and away we went boring the holes in the frame to match. extra bolts and more stop bolts completed it. Then we raised up the front of the trailer I think we did it ether with the jack or we might have used the loader and bucket on the tractor. tipped it up so the back of the teardrop was on the shop floor and rolled in the new axle and wheels with springs attached on new spring seats welded in to 48 inches to match the harbor freight frame. then spent afternoon with dad and a tape measure getting it lined up to travel right then clamps and helded in one spot he spot welded on spring bracket we measured and then moved the wheels around a bit more spot welding I think he did some pounding with a ball peen hammer to get it in the right spot more measering we had to get the same distance on both sides from the axles to the front of the hitch like a trianle or like finding square in carpertry work. once he had it tacked on he went ahead and finshed filling in the beads and welding it up tight. This is what he does best fabercating or taking a idea and building it or welding it up. having just built for our ranch a new 20 foot goosekneck flat bed trailer for scrap and a diffrent 18 foot one for the company he retired from he has experance doing this sort of lineing up wheels so I was learning a new skill last summer as he showed me how to get a new wheels under my teardrop and get it so the tear would track right now weave or wolble from side to side or back or forth andmy tirers so they would last a long time. the shocks mounts were just bolts welded to the spring plates underneath and they were positioned and then I bore a hole in the frame and stuck a bolt though for the top of the shock some photos from out back teardrop web site larry sorreson website helped for guidence I added big stop nuts and some big whashers and That compleated it. I will show photos after I go out and take them tommrow when i get a chance to crawle under my teardrop out in the shop. I will have to post them to my personal album so keep a eye on it for new photos. To get them on to my album I have to hit a photo software programe and size them down so hopefully my tommrow night I should have them online unless something comes up tommrow Like I have a cow trying to calf or something. Slowcowboy.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Postby slowcowboy » Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:03 am

Its hard to see the added on angle iron in my photos that is beefing up my frame on my teardrop as I painted them to match the red paint on the frame with a can of red paint after I was done attaching the wheels they are under the bottom of the frame and are no longer than where the springs are welded to the what looks like the frame. They attache much like the harbor freight wheels did with just a heavy peice of angle I think I cut it to 5 feet long about apoxment. I did this by sizing down a 20 feet peice dad had that he didn't use on his flatbed trailer and i cut it with a carbide blade in a sawsall with some earplugs took about a hour. I have used just about every tool there is in a shop on this trailer. I want to bend some aluniom dimand plate to fit the curve on the back of the hatch but don't have a roll bending tool. Dad has come up with some pipe bending teeth that I might be able to get this new idea done on the bench press. But I am not sure if I am going to do that to get diamond plate on the back of the tear maybee in the future. any way, the heavy angle is bolted to the bottom of the frame on the back of the tear just from half way on the door to the back to just about a foot from the back end. I can un bolt the angles and slide the wheels out if i ever need to remove my hole suspesion from my teardrop. other than two bolts on the frame for the top gas shock mounts the gas shocks can be removed from the tear with the suspicion if nessary this way to as the bottoms are bolted to the spring u-bolt plates. photos will be coming in my album. I would past them into my messages the normal way if I could get the past to work on here. slowcowboy.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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Postby slowcowboy » Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:20 am

Imagehee! If i can remmber how I done that past works. This photo shows the angle good it is black and sticks out a bit in front of the wheels at this point it was unpainted. should be on the bottom of the frame just about a foot in front of the wheels under the door. slowcowboy.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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In reply to the answers for photos and explanations to tear.

Postby slowcowboy » Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:51 pm

Image
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As promesed folks this is the story of photos behind the suspesion on my harbor freight trailer frame teardrop built for off road use. here is the photos of how I attached my gas shocks to my frame and to my spring u -bolt plates. here is a bettor shot or photo of the beefed up angle iron that my springs are welded to. It is bolted under my harbor freight trailer frame and my spring shackles are welded to it. Glad to post more photos and be of help. slowcowboy.
Plans. there was supposed to be plans to be followed when I built this thing. Opps! AH, gee, tum,tee tum. I think I forgot about the plans 2 years ago. ------Tow vehicles, 1995 ford explore, 1994 ford ranger, 1993 ford F-150, 2009 4x9 Off road teardrop, on harbor freight greatly modified frame.
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