Custom Chassis For a 4x10x4 1/2

[Cliffmeister2000]

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but Andrew, your comments have caused me to modify my chassis plans, and have prompted a few questions.

An A-frame tongue instead of the triple-tongue would be OK up to 800lb for a utility trailer, so I reckon that's 1600lb for a teardrop. The angle of the A-frame isn't right for a 50-deg coupler, so join the two A-frame tubes onto a short coupler mount tube - just what you've drawn but with 90% of the centre tongue tube missing.

With an A-frame tongue, the cross-members are only there to hold up the floor and serve no other structural purpose. They can be left out entirely if you wish (and you make the floor strong enough to hold itself up) or could be swapped for 2x2x1/8 angle which would provide easy bolting and save some weight. Put the cross-members wherever suits you.

Andrew

Andrew, I am assuming your statements are in regards to an A-Frame tongue made with 2x2 square tubing. Is 1/8" wall good enough for a 1,600lb teardrop? (I've wondered for a long time why the 50º angle was important. It never occured to me that they make a coupler designed for A frame tongues, and 50º is the standard)

Every A-Frame coupler I can find appears to be weld on. Do they make a bolt on coupler for A-Frame tongues?

[angib]

Do you think I should extend the A-frame back close to the axle too?

I don't believe there is any reason to do this - I can't see it doing any harm, but I don't see any structural benefit.

The A-frame tubes need to overlap the front of the side rails by, say, 8 inches. This isn't a magic figure, just a rough guide as to what overlap makes the stresses in the welds low.

It is not necessary to have any overlap - the side rails can continue forwards and bend in to become the A-frame - but you need to be a professional-standard welder to make the butt welds in the tubes good enough that they won't start cracking after a year or two. For most amateur welders, I think it's safer to overlap the A-frame tubes onto the side rails.

Do they make a bolt on coupler for A-Frame tongues?

I've never seen one in catalogues but then I'm not in the US, so I'm no expert in what you can buy.

Andrew

[DMcCam]

I've got the thing redrawn to mirror the changes, at least I think I do.



Download large jpeg image here:
http://www.vulcaniavolunteers.com/TEARDROP/TFPLN_IPBBIG.jpg

I'm working toward a finished TD loaded weight to be around 1,000 lbs give or take.

Thanks again, Dave

[DMcCam]

Andrew Sir, does this look like I can move forward to fabrication? Is the derated 1,500 lb Flexiride correct for a 1,000 lb estimated total build and loaded weight? I'm going to purchase the pre-made kit before welding (leveling jacks, tongue jack, etc.) Please let me know if you see anything more I need to correct too.

Respectfully, Dave

[Classic Finn]

Those torsion axles use rubber to provide the "spring" as i understand it. How long does the rubber last, and is it service-able, or will the axle have to be replaced when the rubber gives out?

Cliff my partner here in Finland makes torsion axles. He says that most of the time it should be replaced.

I,ll ask him more tomorrow about servicing and so on. Now this question made me curious too. I,ll get back to you as soon as I talk with him in the morning local time.

[angib]

Dave, that looks fine to me. 1500lb for an estimated 1000lb trailer seems OK, though I think you could go a little lower (to get softer suspension) - I would pick the 1400lb that is the minimum for that size of Flexiride.

Andrew

[DMcCam]

Thank you for your kind advise Andrew sir! I'll get the dimensions on the drawing and we'll finally start the build...Wahoooooo!!!

With sincere gratitude,

Dave

[aggie79]

Dave,

You did the right thing by posting your frame design on the board for review and advice. I tried to figure it out myself and ended up having the trailer re-fabricated due to a math error. (At least the trailer was too long and not too short.)

I can't wait to see your build!

[DMcCam]

Hi Tom, Anytime I can make good use of the experience and wisdom of others I'll definitely do it.

Here is the final plan...we are ready to build I think.



Download large jpeg image here:
http://www.vulcaniavolunteers.com/TEARDROP/TRAILER_CHASSIS_FRAME_FINAL.jpg

Dave

[ERV]

Dave
Been watching this and learning a lot. Nice job on planing. I am starting to build this sumer and have just started thinking and drawing up my frame. The only thing I see that I would add is a rear hitch. I am putting one on the tear we have now, and am planing one with my new tear. I am looking at side receivers too. Side tables and canopies look pretty nice.



Erv

[DMcCam]

Hi Erv, Thanks for the kind kudo's and for reminding me about the extra receivers. I'll certainly consider them before my welder finishes.

Dave

[DMcCam]

Forgot to say 'ouch' Tom. Having to redo anything is just a plain bummer. I actually have your build thread in my favorites and refer to it often. I too am looking forward to your finish...ah, aluminum and trim.

Cheers, Dave

[DMcCam]

It's time to order our axle!

Here are the current specs: Flexiride 2,000lb axle derated to 1,400lbs for a 56" frame width with a 5 bolt hub. The wheel size is 205/75 R14 with a 2mm offset (I want the wheels to be tucked in pretty tight).

A few questions.
Are these specifications correct?
Are there better or more common specs (would 4 bolt be better)?
What size electric brake assembly would we need?
What would you recommend for a good brake controller for a Honda Element?

Thanks a ton guys for all your help.

Dave

[DMcCam]

Here are the current specs: Flexiride 2,000lb axle derated to 1,400lbs for a 56" frame width with a 5 bolt hub. The wheel size is 205/75 R14 with a 2mm offset (I want the wheels to be tucked in pretty tight).

A few questions.
Are these specifications correct?
Are there better or more common specs (would 4 bolt be better)?
What size electric brake assembly would we need?
What would you recommend for a good brake controller for a Honda Element?

Hi Guys, I would really appreciate your feed back on these specs. The fellow building my frame wants to get it done before the years end!!!

[teardrop_focus]

DMcCam

Here are the current specs: Flexiride 2,000lb axle derated to 1,400lbs for a 56" frame width with a 5 bolt hub. The wheel size is 205/75 R14 with a 2mm offset (I want the wheels to be tucked in pretty tight).

The axle rating sounds like it's on the money! We want the rubber torsion suspension's dynamic "spring" rated to 125% of the trailer's static load. That's a fully-loaded, ready-to-go-camping-with-everything-we-need trailer.




Is this wheel easily replaceable in this offest spec if the wheel is damaged? If not then have at least one spare (as is my case. I have just under 2" from trailer wall-to-tire)

Are these specifications correct?

Can't say. You'll inevitably stumble upon something that needs to be tweaked during your build.

Until we've made the second trailer, there'll always be something that crops up.

You've made a thorough attempt at designing it; now's the time to whittle it out.

Are there better or more common specs (would 4 bolt be better)?

Five-lug would be more common from years' past for automobile wheels here in the States.

What size electric brake assembly would we need?

I think your choices are 7-inch and 8-inch diameters. Larger would be better as it would create increased leverage and a slower drum speed.

(Flexiride uses Dexter-branded brake assemblies)

What would you recommend for a good brake controller for a Honda Element?

That question might be best answered by those who sell these things. Contact the experts at Eastern Marine/Trailer Parts Superstore to see what they recommend for your Element.

Of course if you don't get any more replies to your latest request you can always PM people like Andrew and Doug for their experienced opinions.

Looking forward to seeing this!