Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Postby GPW » Tue Nov 08, 2011 5:21 pm

The use of resin probably makes it as hard to sand as fiberglass ... :o
The more usual constructions using white glue (T2 in our case ) does allow for easy sanding ... and a proper finish ... as seen on many paper mache constructions here...
Thinking that canvas or even fiberglass cloth applied with resin would be as equally hard to sand .... a situation anyone who has done fiberglass work before can confirm ...
Don’t blame the materials , blame the method of application ... :thinking:
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Postby Tiredoldwhiteman » Tue Nov 08, 2011 5:35 pm

GPW wrote:...as seen on many paper mache constructions here...


Are there any paper mache TD's/TTT's here on this Forum?

Elsewise, I can well imagine an entire TD/TTT made of paper mache.

The stuff is pretty light and it does have a (limited) degree of structural value.

A good in- and exterior coating with an effective waterproofing (GPW's Sealing Sauce? (see: http://tnttt.com/viewto ... d232ecbd7c) and, Bob's yer uncle; an egg drop tear drop.

Can you say, "compound curves?"
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Postby GPW » Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:03 am

Sorry , I should have clarified that “hereâ€
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Postby bonnie » Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:44 am

This puts me in mind of Decoupage. Instead of on layer of really thick canvas, you could prime and then decoupage the outside of the tear. It would have to have some sort of really sturdy clear coat finish. To keep with the sock theme. You could have a 7oz layer of canvas or muslin, then decoupage over it.

With this method, I think you could do all the layering and sealing before the teardrop was put together. Then only the seams would need worked before you put on the final coat(s) of sealer.

I wonder if the Red Max floor sealer would work? Hmmmm.

BTW, this would not be for the faint of heart. Decoupage glue dries clear. Is there any other type of glue that does so that would work on a foam teardrop? Especially if you wanted to make a specific design. Though I have to admit the newspaper look was fun.
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Postby GPW » Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:49 am

Don’t everybody get excited , it was just an idea !!! Still exploring Thrifty Alternatives ...
In these uncertain economic times ... seems everybody should have an opportunity to camp out in a good sturdy trailer (and EVAC)...
Depending on the amount of Salvage , a project like this can be pretty inexpensive ... even I proved that ... :roll: Just exploring more possibilities ... :thinking:

Bonnie , decoupage ... Exactly ... :thumbsup: But I was thinking more a multi layered thick skin , that would be painted over... and as with wood , the paper seams could be easily sanded flat , so that and some thick primer , a pretty smooth surface could be achieved (if desired) ... Or a rough surface and a decorative paint job to disguise it ... :o My Camo paint job hides a multitude of sins... :D

One thing common to this Thrifty business is, the thriftier you go , usually the more Labor you have to do too... :o But if you have Fun building things , then it’s all Good !!! 8)
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Postby atahoekid » Wed Nov 09, 2011 10:50 am

GPW,

OH now you've done it again. I'm still at a point in the build that the outside finish can be changed. I THOUGHT I had finalized the thinking on that. But NOOOH, you've got to bring up another interesting idea. It might mean more work, but the finish could be outstanding.... Haven't messed with paper mache' before, don't know if there is much of a learning curve. Decoupage? Hmmm worth looking into also. :thinking: :thinking:
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Postby bonnie » Wed Nov 09, 2011 2:40 pm

decoupage techniques will also work with fabric. I was thinking about the options of covering my foamie. Though, now I wonder if we could use less foam and more fabric or paper.
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Postby GPW » Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:33 pm

There do seem to be many options for covering , but I don’t think I’d skimp on the foam :o The thing that makes these trailers strong is that the skins , inner and outer are spaced far apart , the foam between becoming a "shear web" of sorts ... The outer surfaces suffer most of the tension/compression (bending) loads , and the further apart the skins are, the stronger the entire structure considered as a “unitâ€
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Postby GPW » Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:37 pm

OOPS! DP ... :o
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Postby atahoekid » Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:48 am

After GPW's post of a Mardi Gras float caught my interest, I did a bit of web research on paper mache and really like what I discovered. The Wikipedia post on the subject was very educational. I am positive that this could work as long as there is a waterproof final coat of some sort. I think a good coat of paint will do the job just fine. So here's the thought process now...

Front bulkhead in the form of shelving and cabinets, rear bulkheads in the form of galley cabinets, 2" foam walls lined on the interior with thin luan underlayment, attached to the cabinets/shelves via hardpoints, attached to the floor with fiberglass strips, "sock" of fiberglass cloth and TB2. If additional smoothing needed, several layers of paper mache/TB2 sanded as needed, primer and a minimum of 2 coats of quality paint for finish and waterproofing....

That's my plan and I'm sticking to it... until GPW comes up with another great idea. :lol: 8) :lol: 8)

I'm thinking that if I do a good job with this, people will wonder if the outer finish is a fiberglass shell.

One question though... most of the instructions for paper mache call for newspaper torn into couple inch wide strips. I think that for a project of this size, the strips could be maybe 6" wide. What do you all think?
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Postby GPW » Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:44 am

You don’t have to tear the paper into strips unless you’re doing complex shapes ... and using T2 to glue the paper on should pretty much make it as waterproof as we’d need ... I was just thinking of this as a Very THRIFTY way to cover a Foamie ... Foamies don’t have to be expensive , and can be very durable , if carefully constructed ...

I was really thinking of this over the white bead board , because this Foam comes in different densities , and can be as sturdy as the more expensive extruded foam ... and much easier to find ! (glues up easier too !!! )
If you’d like a simple experiment , try covering one of those really cheap beaded foam ice chests ... with newspaper and T2 ... That should prove the feasibility and give you a good sturdy (cheap) ice chest ... :thumbsup:

Best to test all this out first , so you know what to expect on a Foamie build ...
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Postby bonnie » Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:40 am

Strips will form better to shapes and corners. 6: shouldn't be an issue. Huge pieces will have a tendency to wrinkle and bubble. If you alternate the direction of the paper layers then you will be building in strength.

For me, I'm thinking this will be used to decorate the outside of the foam Squidget. As long as I can find something that dries clear and will allow me to put a hard clear finish on the results.

I probably will do a small project first. I'm thinking about the tongue boxes. That way, I'll know if it would work.

One other thought: I have a lot of outdoor rated material. I was really considering using it to cover the foamie, as it would save $$$$. Would I need to wash it first, do you think? I have some beadboard that I can test with. May do that this weekend.
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Postby atahoekid » Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:46 pm

GPW,

Using beadboard? If I recall, the XPS was the material of choice because it was several times stronger than the beadboard. Does the paper mache add enough strength to make the beadboard a good substrate? I will definitely run some tests on this before using it on the Road Foamie but I have a pretty high degree of confidence after doing internet research. I think I can get this to conform to the curves, bends, nooks and crannies without too much diificulty and with the TB2 in the paper mache', a good coat of primer or two and a couple coats of good paint this should be as watertight as a ducks butt. The wife will think I've lost my mind when I start on the paper mache' but this won't be the first time :lol: :lol: :lol: and it certainly won't be the last...

Bonnie,
If the beadboard is pretty dirty, I'd at least hit it with the hose and spray off the worst of it, you might want to use a brush and some kind of cleaner if it's dirty enough that you think adhesion might be an issue. I'd don't think there are too many standard cleaners that would eat foam but you might want to test s scrap piece first. Looking forward to seeing your results.
Mel

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Postby tartosuc » Thu Nov 10, 2011 1:09 pm

when i was a teenager i used to help on bulding paper mache stuff for parade in my area.
i remember that the biggest structure had a screening material to help for strenght, like bugscreen.
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Postby atahoekid » Thu Nov 10, 2011 3:05 pm

Since the foam provides structure, screening won't be needed except for those areas where you can't create the shape in foam. This should allow all kinds of creative shapes for the foamies. :thumbsup:
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