madjack wrote:...nice looking start and a heck of a project...the only things I see are a lot of complicated and possibly unneeded metal and fabrication in the floor frame...I would consider dropping the tongue under the floor frame and running it back to the second crossmember and the same with the tongue side braces...you could probably eliminate a couple crossmembers that way and the side braces would double as the same thing as those front diagonal braces, eliminating them as well...keep in mind at 80"s plus width, you will need additional marker lights to be in compliance with DOT regulations........
corncountry wrote:I agree with madjack on the frame. I see you have already changed the sides.
What are you going to side it with? Aluminum sides will also add strength to the frame.
I am up in the air about how I will skin the inside and outside.
How can I attach the aluminum to the steel frame? Rivets? I have also thought about 20 -24 gauge steel as the outer skin then painting it.
Ageless wrote:Personally; for the size; that's built like a tank!
I'd lose 2 or 3 crossmembers in the frame; and just use one vertical between the door and rear.
Juneaudave wrote:Maybe Ageless or someone can chime in, but I've been waiting for a (ahem) test tear to try using some of this 3M VHB Tape for attaching aluminum sheet fgoods to a steel frame... seems like there are some inherent advantages if it works..no rivets or holes to leak, a positive barrier for galvanic action.
madjack wrote:...first thing to keep in mind...these trailer are not needed to be ANYWHERE near the strength of a normal utility type trailer...they will never see the loads and are further strengthened by the rest of the framing members on the body including side and cross bulkhead...IIRC put my crossmembers on a varying 30"centers(using 5' ply)...they were 2x1/8th angle, the perimeter frame is 1x2x3/16 "C" channel with center tongue tube of 2x3/16 tube with the "C" channel for side braces...I would seriously consider downsizing your steel and lightening things up considerabley......
madjack wrote:Brian, my first crossmember is centered 30" from front, the second at 60" and the third splits the difference to the back...I used two SINGLE sheets of 5x5x1/2ply to make up the 5x9 floor floor, I then place a sheet of 1" blue foam board on top of that and then my 6" mattress...there is no bow/flex to the floor from our use...I too, would recommend the use of #M VHB(very high bond) tape to put the sides on...this stuff is used in the automotive industry to apply trim, medallions and such to the body, it is tough stuff...
p.s. my trailer frame w/torsion axle and tongue, less wheels, weighs in around 150#s...the total weight, loaded up is around 1000=1200#s...keep in mind, no matter the tow vehicles capabilities, for each unneeded pound, you will pay a fuel mileage penalty....mj
caseydog wrote:I just started reading your build thread. One bit of advice garnered from reading a lot of build threads... Darn near everyone overbuilds their first teardrop.
Keep in mind that the rigidity of the finished teardrop is greater than the sum of the parts. Your frame doesn't have to be rock stiff all by itself. Can your CAD program show the effects of adding a skin to your framework?
Anything you can do to keep the weight down will make you happy, in the long run. Whether it is better gas milage, easier towing, or just being able to move the thing around by hand when you gat to camp, you will appreciate light weight.
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