Thrifty Alternatives ..Building Foam Campers

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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Postby Treeview » Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:11 am

Be sure to use stainless steel fasteners or compatible fasteners, when using any treated wood.

The rules changed a few years ago with the new treatments.

I'd even consider isolating the trailer with some sort of nylon/plastic sheeting that won't rub and wear.

Easier to use cedar or maybe even plastic wood for those exposures.
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Postby GPW » Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:25 am

DJ, 15 bolts total , 3 on each crossmember lock washers , fender washers , and thread Lock which might (?) help preserve the threads long term .... I was even considering painting the black nasty stuff over the threads of what’s left exposed ... may be overkill... Don’t think the floor will ever go anywhere... :o

Tree, I so have some plastic tubing for isolating the bolts through the PT wood ... I got the SOS old galvanized carriage bolts ... and already got the PT 2X4s... fait accompli !! :roll:
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Postby eaglesdare » Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:36 am

my heater is a lasko ceramic element heater. it works great inside the foamie. one time it got so hot it turned itself off. but i need a smaller unit, this one is too big and akward in the foamie, takes up too much room.
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Postby atahoekid » Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:58 am

I am going to use a propane powered Olympian Wave 3 catalytic heater. It is safe to use indoors but also has warning labels to not use it in sleeping quarters. It puts out a lot of BTU's so I should not need to run it for very long. I plan to use it as a pre-heater before we crawl in for the night and after we wake in the morning. Not during actual periods of sleep. Between the heater, the Fantastic Vent, and judicious use of the slider windows, I should be able to regulate the inside temperature in all but the hottest environments. Since the foamie is essentially a styrofoam cooler on wheels, air flow will be crucial to temperature regulation. OH and PLEASE remember that sleeping in an airtight teardrop of any construction can be fatal. Always sleep with an opening to fresh air of at least a few inches. There's an article posted as a sticky about air tight teardrops somewhere in one of the topics. Take the time to read it for your own health and safety. :worship: :worship:
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The Road Foamie Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=45698
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Postby bonnie » Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:50 pm

GPW wrote:DJ, 15 bolts total , 3 on each crossmember lock washers , fender washers , and thread Lock which might (?) help preserve the threads long term .... I was even considering painting the black nasty stuff over the threads of what’s left exposed ... may be overkill... Don’t think the floor will ever go anywhere... :o

Tree, I so have some plastic tubing for isolating the bolts through the PT wood ... I got the SOS old galvanized carriage bolts ... and already got the PT 2X4s... fait accompli !! :roll:


Weren't you going to countersink those bolts? I seem toremember a picture of bolts epoxied to squares. Mybe another thread. Looking good. Will you put someort of spacer gasket between the trailer and the trailer body?
Remember, the turtle won. :)
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Postby linuxmanxxx » Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:24 pm

Hey GPW go to lowes in the special fastener drawers use the elevator bolts with the lart flat head surface area and you won't have to worry about doing anything inside the cabin cause when you torque them they will pull into the wood a slight bit and give a smooth surface and the larger head spreads the load on the wood rather well.
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Postby Wolffarmer » Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:20 pm

Lowes has elevator bolts?

I got mine at a place in town called A.M.I. Sort of a local mechanical tool and bolt dealer. If was to get them online would have cost almost $20 for 10. I got mine for $4.41 at AMI.

I got 3/8x1.5 inch in zinc plated. They stock 1.5 and 2 inch length, in Zinc. that I know for sure.

And it sure can't cost much to ship, not like those internet robbery stores

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Postby atahoekid » Wed Dec 14, 2011 4:06 pm

When I was mounting the floor to the frame, I thought about using elevator bolts. I too, never knew that Lowe's carried them. I went to Fastenal and they wanted a young fortune for them. So, Never Mind. I used carriage bolts instead. They won't present too much of a problem for me since my floor is actually the floor of the storage area.
Mel

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The Road Foamie Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=45698
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Postby Wolffarmer » Wed Dec 14, 2011 9:39 pm

I figure that for $0.44 each I am going to use elevator bolts.

Summer of 2010 I also learned that that AMI place had Althread at less than 1/2 of some other places. And I needed about 5 sticks of the stuff.

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Postby bonnie » Thu Dec 15, 2011 12:47 pm

GPW wrote:DJ, 15 bolts total , 3 on each crossmember lock washers , fender washers , and thread Lock which might (?) help preserve the threads long term .... I was even considering painting the black nasty stuff over the threads of what’s left exposed ... may be overkill... Don’t think the floor will ever go anywhere... :o

Tree, I so have some plastic tubing for isolating the bolts through the PT wood ... I got the SOS old galvanized carriage bolts ... and already got the PT 2X4s... fait accompli !! :roll:


Weren't you going to countersink those bolts? I seem toremember a picture of bolts epoxied to squares. Mybe another thread. Looking good. Will you put someort of spacer gasket between the trailer and the trailer body?
Remember, the turtle won. :)
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Postby GPW » Thu Dec 15, 2011 2:02 pm

Bonnie , just regular carriage bolts , the heads will be hidden under the padding and wall to wall carpet ...
Just the 2x4 spacers , and the black nasty stuff ... That’s all really ..
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:16 pm

No messages in this thread today! You can't be done...

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby Wolffarmer » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:27 pm

mikeschn wrote:No messages in this thread today! You can't be done...

Mike...


:lol: :lol:

Not done, to cold outside and to broke.

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Postby linuxmanxxx » Fri Dec 16, 2011 4:44 pm

I have 2 brand new texsport the lodge SUV tents that we use for the microcampers to attach over the doors and make an additional dressing living area available for sell be perfect for the foamies and teardrops to use.

$135 each shipped to your door in the 48 lower states. My contact is in my signature if you are interested.

I also have many of the twist to open doors that have the slip outlet for you to pull your electric hookup cable out and connect and these are $10 free shipping to lower 48.
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Postby NonProfit » Sat Dec 17, 2011 4:48 pm

OK, I was just going to build a regular ole TD and then found this thread and read every page (well, I read the first 50 and then started skimming.) Not sure what I'll do now...thanks for the ideas...
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