#1

Canvas covered foamies (Thrifty Alternatives...)

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#1

Postby ghcoe » Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:19 pm

Ok, so I have been wanting to build a TD for about 12 years now. I was looking at small manufacturing and even had a good friend that was interested to go in with me, even made some templates. Well things fell through and he moved farther away and life happened. I am still interested in building one to use behind my small car and if things work out maybe to sell a few.

As time has gone by my design ideas fell away from the TD and went more to the practical (at least in my own opinion) box type construction. It seems you just get more use out of the small foot print. Plus you get a more practical roof line to add a rack too for bikes, kayaks, and such. I really like the Grasshopper for these reasons. In my thinking I wanted to make it simple to build, just in case I would have a need to build more, and practical, so everyone would want one.

My biggest worry when thinking about a trailer build was water. I know how wicked water can be. When I saw these build ideas here I knew then that this was for me. I love foam, I have built a few foam RC planes and I loved working with it. I did own a motor home once that was built using a very similar construction and I remember then thinking what a great idea. I do not know why I did not put the two together to make a trailer. It's so simple...

I had to modify my plans some to make it work with foam. I know that there will be some unforeseen design problems, but that can be dealt with as they come up.
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Re: #1

Postby KCStudly » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:06 pm

I like the profile and the extra fold down counter extension is a very good idea.

Not sure I understand the way you plan to seal the overlap between the apparent hatch side skirts and the exposed shelf ends (?), but I am a big fan of triangulation so if having an extra deep hatch side "rib" is the idea, I get it.

The skirting below the trailer frame really adds to the profile and won't hurt ground clearance for most all but severe situations.

Looks like a great plan. :thumbsup: Looking forward to your progress. Do you have any idea of what trailer you plan to use?

From your comments in my build thread, I assume that your kayak rack will clear the hatch when raised. One way of dealing with hatch to head clearance is to build up. More ground clearance and bigger tires/suspension; get you into more places for kayaking... though at the expense of aero drag if your TV is smaller. Can't recall you mentioning what your TV is?

:wine:
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Re: #1

Postby KCStudly » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:20 pm

Which way do you plan to sleep? With the door(s) and low cabinets/shelves both at the front you may end up with a head knocker situation.

When I laid out my profile I measured from my seat to my head (I'm taller than the wife) and placed my door appropriately for sitting in and swinging my knees up and in (nice wide door), then I drew in an arc that represented my arse as a pivot/center point so that I would not hit my head on any of the cabinets while going from sitting to laying, to trying to put my socks on while doing a crunch and touching my toes while sitting on the mattress. Sorry, I don't seem to have an image of that in my gallery.

Still, it looks good. I like. :thumbsup:
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My Build: The Poet Creek Express Hybrid Foamie

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Re: #1

Postby atahoekid » Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:03 am

That looks like a great plan!! I agree with KC about watching your head room but some of these things work out when you're building. Foam is a great material and lends itself to different building ideas. Make sure you include pics as you progress. :pictures: :pictures: We love it!!
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:33 am

KCStudly wrote:Not sure I understand the way you plan to seal the overlap between the apparent hatch side skirts and the exposed shelf ends (?), but I am a big fan of triangulation so if having an extra deep hatch side "rib" is the idea, I get it.


So the idea is that would be the side wall cut at that angle and then a inner wall will be built to the same outer profile. On the top there will be a inner roof line just below the existing roof line that will have grooves cut to go from side to side for water to drain out, if it should get past the seals. Not sure how to really explain this so hope it makes some sense.

KCStudly wrote:Do you have any idea of what trailer you plan to use?


Planning on a HF trailer. Just can not beat the price.

KCStudly wrote:From your comments in my build thread, I assume that your kayak rack will clear the hatch when raised.


Yes I have a plan. Not sure if it will work yet. The idea is to use 2" PVC and go from the floor and out through the roof. The supports would come up just in front of the side door and between the hatch and the bulkhead in back. The PVC may be used as a duct work to for a positive pressure system and maybe cooling too.

KCStudly wrote:Can't recall you mentioning what your TV is?:wine:


1975 Opel Ascona (1900 in the States)
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George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:46 am

KCStudly wrote:Which way do you plan to sleep?


Originally I was planning to make the shelves on the bulk head. I got to thinking that I did not like the curve above my head in case I wanted to sit up to read. I thought that the curve would be just about where my head would be and make it a bit uncomfy. So, I moved the shelves to the front and now my head will have a nice flat wall to lay against. :)

This build is based on a 5'x8' floor with 4' high sides.
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby KCStudly » Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:58 am

When I stayed in NZ in '82 the international version of the Ford Escort was the hot rally car. Your Opel looks very similar. Funny how it took so long for the "Tuner Car" movement to get traction here in the states, but then again we can't really appreciate how much fuel costs in other countries.

In '82 gas was over $5/gal in N-Zed and most families only had one car. We gripe even now when it goes over $4/gal.

Thanks for the pic and reply.
Last edited by KCStudly on Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Engineering the TLAR way - "That Looks About Right"
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Re: #1

Postby mezmo » Sun Jan 13, 2013 1:57 am

This'll be another good one to watch !
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:56 am

KCStudly wrote:Not sure I understand the way you plan to seal the overlap between the apparent hatch side skirts and the exposed shelf ends (?), but I am a big fan of triangulation so if having an extra deep hatch side "rib" is the idea, I get it.


So I am in the process of building a scale model to help sort things out before the "Big Project". I just finished the hatch this morning so I though that I would post this picture to illustrate better how the hatch will be close and seal. Not shown is the sub roof that would run just under the hatch and would extend to just before the radius. It will have grooves in it to allow water that may get past the roof seal to flow to one side or the other and then along the hatch and out the bottom. I am planning on using just a high density foam seal along the outer edges of the hatch. I would have no hurricane hinge on the top, probably 3 or 4 marine style hinges. Hope this clears things up a bit. This is one of the reasons I liked the hatch better. It seemed to be a stronger build and a tighter seal. I could also run a secondary seal alone the inner wall too. I get on some awfully dusty trails here in Idaho and I hate dust in my stuff. That is why I am planning on installing a positive pressure system too....
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George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby GPW » Sun Jan 13, 2013 5:30 pm

NICE model !!!! :thumbsup: 8) No surprises that way later on ... ;)
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Re: #1

Postby S. Heisley » Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:14 pm

:thumbsup: ...What GPW said. :thumbsup: It looks like a great plan! Good luck on your build.
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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Sun Jan 13, 2013 6:23 pm

Thanks.
The nice thing about the foam I am using is with the 1 inch = 1 foot scale I am working with it is about 2 inches thick scaled. :)

I have completed the galley and it is drying right now. Once it is dried I will post another picture. Almost as good as the real thing.....
George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby atahoekid » Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:43 pm

It's a good idea to build a model. Helps give you an idea of how the parts go together and some of the issues you may encounter. I like how your rear hatch fits together. Good work!
Mel

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Re: #1

Postby ghcoe » Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:57 pm

Glue has dried so here is a better shot of how the hatch will close and the sub roof. The sub roof would have a channel or two to shed water to either side of the hatch, if any water should get past the seal. Also, when the hatch is up it will divert water since there will not be a continuous hinge.
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George.

Gorrilla Glue, Great Stuff and Gripper. The three G's of foamie construction.

My build viewtopic.php?t=54099
Working with flashing for foamie construction viewtopic.php?f=55&t=60303
Making a hot wire http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=55323
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Re: #1

Postby GPW » Tue Jan 15, 2013 6:06 am

Looks GOOD to me ... :thumbsup:
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