1st build. Bought used home built trailer. My Brain is swimming all over..lol

[Dfloyd270]

Ok, I hope this is in the correct thread. Just i think is more of me just putting all this information or thoughts that are running through my head and dream about as I start out in the building design etc.

I've post a couple post of the home built trailer I bought used. Traded some work off with a local trailer build guy of 40 years. ( smart man, lucky to have found him)

The top rails that I cut off were industrial 2 3/8" railroad track. (Like regular train track. Smaller scale) The trailer guy wanted that too. The cross beams are made of that as well. Trailer is very strong although not completely flat on the frame part so I will need to work out some shims and etc on the floor part. (I am thinking 1/2 plywood on bot sides and 1x6 for the frame. I am over hanging frame slightly.. an inch or 2)

The trailer had a drop axle on it. Some rust etc. I think part of the the frame may have been part of an old pop-up. I had a new axle made and he made it a little wider (3" total) My idea here has i wanted to make the camper a little wider. As it stands right now my exterior walls outside to outside can be max 57". That leaves me 2" from that to the tires.

I have bought doors, windows vent fan, solar, panel, lithium Pho battery probably too much at this point. The trailer is longer than I thought it was. (I guess i didn't think that through. Had looked a long time and couldn't find anything. Found a deal**ha ha*( and just bought it) I am a little concerned about my weight. I really would like it under 1500 or less.

The frame Is 12' 6" long.
My mindset is 2x2 frame walls 1/2 exterior with PMF. Rear Galley with straight vertical wall. (What is the advantages to an angled hatch door? I have a hurricane hinge already as well.
I am attracting a few pictures. I scaled a couple quick drawings foe the 1st time yesterday making me realize how long it is.

Also, if you look at my scale drawing I thought i would put the windows over the wheels. I think i want them the other side of the door towards the tounge. That is where my head will be.

Thoughts or comments welcomed if you made it this far...lol

 

[Dfloyd270]

Scale-ish drawings..lol

 

[3GKnight]

Gotta love a deal!

12'-6" overall really isn't so long if you're including the tongue and all. You might consider using a portion of the front for storage? Like a full-width but shorter height cabinet.

What do you mean by, "..angled hatch door?"

 

[Dfloyd270]

The 1st 2 pictures are curved or angled.
The 2nd 2 are flat. I have been thinking like the last picture.

The cabin box if you will is 12'6". That does not include tounge.

Thanks for reading and the reply

 

[Dfloyd270]

To the center of the ball hole in the coupling it is another 3' 3"
So I guess total length 15' 9".. Wow, that blows my mind...lol.
That's the 1st time I've measured that. That may next 100% accurate as I just went out in the rain, sleet and snow in the back yard to measure that...lol

 

[Tony Latham]

My mindset is 2x2 frame walls 1/2 exterior with PMF. Rear Galley with straight vertical wall. (What is the advantages to an angled hatch door? I have a hurricane hinge already as well.

You're overbuilding the walls, and weight adds quickly during a build. 3/4" framing is more than adequate.

1/4" plywood on the outside is more than adequate with 1/8 Baltic birch ply inside.

I don't think I have ever seen a flat-backed hatch that really jumps.

Curved hatches are much stronger than angled ones, and they are not that hard to build. Plus, they drastically reduce drag.

Make sure your hurricane hinge is long enough so that you can leave about 1/2" overhang, or it will leak.

Door placement is important. Make sure they are right where your hip is on the mattress while lying down. Unless you've got a ton of storage up front, yours is too far forward and will make entry/egress a pain.

Good luck!

Tony

 

[Dfloyd270]

Thanks Tony! This is the stuff I needed to hear. When I get your book I need to study the curved hatch build.
I had read before what you had said about door placement. I kinda eyeballed it on my drawing close to the wheel taking that in mind. I will definitely check that out before placement of the doors.
Good in the 3/4 for walls!

Thanks Again!

 

[Dfloyd270]

You're overbuilding the walls, and weight adds quickly during a build. 3/4" framing is more than adequate.

1/4" plywood on the outside is more than adequate with 1/8 Baltic birch ply inside.

I don't think I have ever seen a flat-backed hatch that really jumps.

Curved hatches are much stronger than angled ones, and they are not that hard to build. Plus, they drastically reduce drag.

Make sure your hurricane hinge is long enough so that you can leave about 1/2" overhang, or it will leak.

Door placement is important. Make sure they are right where your hip is on the mattress while lying down. Unless you've got a ton of storage up front, yours is too far forward and will make entry/egress a pain.

Good luck!

Tony

Oh, and I made sure the hurricane hinge was long. I will have to cut it down. I've been lurking and reading for a bit in here...lol

 

[Tony Latham]

I kinda eyeballed it on my drawing close to the wheel taking that in mind. I will definitely check that out before placement of the doors.

I talk about it in my book. Go lie down on your bed, and then sit up and swing your legs off as if you're getting up, but sit for a moment. That's the same place you sat before lying down. That's where the door needs to be.

You can get a sense of what the finished hatch looks like in this video. (Turn your volume up.)

It's waterproof and dustproof.

Tony

 

[Dfloyd270]

Awesome!
I play the guitar a little. That is ine of the songs I play. Good choice of music

 

[3GKnight]

To the center of the ball hole in the coupling it is another 3' 3"
So I guess total length 15' 9".. Wow, that blows my mind...lol.
That's the 1st time I've measured that. That may next 100% accurate as I just went out in the rain, sleet and snow in the back yard to measure that...lol

Considering the rig you have, 15'9" is probably fine, depending on the type of terrain you'll be traveling, but building out that much more length will make it that much heavier. Whomever built your axle could cut it down in about an hour.

I think @Tony Latham was saying solid 3/4" walls are overkill. And I would concur, if that's what he's saying. I think that's what Tony's first and second pictures are showing, where he cut portions out to make more a structural frame, rather than a solid wall. That's what I might do on my next one, if I don't make my own SIPs.

I'll defer on the door design. Mine's a squaredrop that has a flat back hatch that swings to the side.

I'm excited to see what you come up with!

 

[Tony Latham]

I think @Tony Latham was saying solid 3/4" walls are overkill.

He was talking about framing his walls and sheathing with 1/2". In my opinion, that's overkill. 1/4" is fine for a framed wall with 1/8" on the inside.

Tony