#2

[ghcoe]

More information on how I did my back bone.

First I purchased 2 Class III receiver tubes from Harbor Freight (HF). They sell two lengths, I bought the 18" long ones. I also purchased a 12' length of 2"x2" steel tube. The 2"x2" tube fits inside the receiver tubes. I measured how long I wanted the back bone and added a foot. This allowed the tube to extend 6" into the receivers to allow for some strength. Remember that you still have two feet above that because the receivers are 18". In my case I chose to add two receivers, but if you don't want a receiver on the back of the trailer you can delete that and just bolt the 2"x2" tube to the frame. I chose to add a receiver to the front so I could change out different hitch styles. I have a pintal and standard 2" ball I can change out quickly if needed. Also, this adds some theft prevention since I can remove the whole hitch system from the trailer all together. If you don't want this feature you can delete this receiver and just run the 2"x2" tube up under the existing hitch. If you do choose this option, in my case, you have to extend the tongue out long enough for the hitch tube to fit completely in before hitting the bolt used to fasten the backbone to the A frame.

You can see the bolt that I used to attach the 2"x2" tube to the A frame in this picture. The bolt goes through the top and bottom plate of the A frame.

 

[ghcoe]

I then bolted through the 1st, 2nd, and 4rd cross member of the trailer with 3/8" bolts. I skipped the 3rd cross member because I will be using these cross member pieces later to strengthen the side frame rails when I move the axle back. These cross members will be replaced with wood. I could not use a bolt on the rear, 5th cross member, because you would not be able to get a hitch/accessory in with a bolt down the middle. I also used a spacer on the 4th cross member to ease the slight bend needed in the 2"x2" steel tube to compensate for the extra thickness of the receiver on the end of the backbone. Again if this is not a feature you want you can bolt through the 2"x2" steel tube at the 5th cross member too.

To get by the bolt down the middle of the rear receiver area I used a piece left over out of the trailer kit. This piece is what the caster wheels bolt to, but is not needed if you don't plan on needing the trailer to fold and roll around. I cut it down and added an notch to fit around the receiver tube and purchased some 3/8" bolts to bolt it to the frame. I also added some angle iron to the back side of the trailer frame to give some extra strength there. Added weight will work on this area especially bike racks which tend to ratchet back and forth going down the road.

Well I think that about covers what I did. Like I said if you don't need the receiver tubes you could get by a lot cheaper. The tube cost me $60.00, the receiver tubes cost $18.00 a piece. Welding was free from a friend, but if you don't know a welder I would guess about $50-60 dollars more.

Hope that helps, George.

 

[GPW]

It’s still a pretty COOL way to beef up a HF trailer . !!! Thanks for the details !!!

 

[rkanz]

I also removed that leaf. In addition I added Teflon spring liners which also smoothed out the ride. A piece of plastic tubing over the slipper spring bolt will reduce noise.


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[JazzVinyl]

Thank you George, for the complete rundown of the "backbone for an HF trailer"!!

Not sure I would need the bike rack, but the extended tongue (yeah, room for a tongue box) and the added strength is great! First thing I thought about when I saw it, was the security advantage. Would make the trailer much less handy to steal while your out at a hiking trailhead.

I like your extra stabilizing bracket on the back, as well, Nicely configured!

Can't wait to see what you come up with for a 'pull out kitchen'!! Your hinting at moving the axel back, too, looking forward to what that brings.

Cheers, and thanks again!!

More information on how I did my back bone.
You can see the bolt that I used to attach the 2"x2" tube to the A frame in this picture. The bolt goes through the top and bottom plate of the A frame.

 

[ghcoe]

Thank you George, for the complete rundown of the "backbone for an HF trailer"!!

Not sure I would need the bike rack, but the extended tongue (yeah, room for a tongue box) and the added strength is great! First thing I thought about when I saw it, was the security advantage. Would make the trailer much less handy to steal while your out at a hiking trailhead.

I like your extra stabilizing bracket on the back, as well, Nicely configured!

Can't wait to see what you come up with for a 'pull out kitchen'!! Your hinting at moving the axel back, too, looking forward to what that brings.

Cheers, and thanks again!!

 

[JazzVinyl]

Alright George, you have inspired me!

I travelled today and picked my 12 foot 2x2 (.120 thickness steel tube) that will become the HF Backbone for my FBO (Foam Bug Out) trailer:

Longer than the trailer:

Tied down with straps...for the 'oh so bouncy' ride home...

In the backyard where the trailer was (we dug the trailer out of the snow, to make this trip)...

Managed to take my (bought used) 13 year old medium duty HF trailer about an hour south of town and bought the tube from a large steel supply house (they cut a 24 foot length tube in 1/2 for my purchase). Was cheap at only $37.00 and change including state sales tax.

Wrangled it home on the old trailer (will be buying a new medium duty HF Trailer for the FBO build) but wanted to make sure I did the backbone, for the strength, security and tongue upgrade it provides.

Hope the HF trailers go 'on sale' after Christmas?

It's all your fault, George!

Grins...cheers!

 

[ghcoe]

Alright George, you have inspired me!

Hope the HF trailers go 'on sale' after Christmas?

It's all your fault, George!

Grins...cheers!

Sorry! I usually see the trailers go on sale in the spring. Next time you are in Harbor Freight make sure to get on their mailing list. Good luck, George.

 

[ghcoe]

I have been meaning to do updates on this trailer for some time.

Early last year I finally had a failure on trial with #4. The main spring broke at the axle pin. I did have the short spring flipped to ease the ride a bit. Not sure if that contributed to cause of the failure or not though. We were able to do a field fix and continue on with the rest of the trip.

Here is the picture of the spring with the field repair (hose clamps). I flipped the short spring around and then we clamped the spring pack together with the hose clamps. Worked well.

I took a look around when I got home for a new main spring. Turns out that size of spring is difficult to find. Ether too narrow or too long. I finally decided it was time for a upgrade. Compact Camping Concepts makes a "Harbor Freight Frame Smooth Spring Retrofit Kit". This kit is basically a bolt on kit that smooths out the ride with a longer spring pack. It also includes the frame brace similar to the stock Harbor Freight frame support brace. It also switches to a shackle type spring instead of the slipper style spring https://compactcampingstore.com/product ... spring-kit . This kit was super easy to install and made a big difference in the way the trailer performed on rough roads.

 

[ghcoe]

The next project came earlier this year. I had been using #2 for these years as just a box. It was kind of difficult to keep things organized on the trips since there was really no place to put anything except on the floor. I then purchased a 12v refrigerator and then I realized it was time to do some modifications. First, I needed to find a door that would accommodate the refrigerator, but not reduce interior bed size. This turned out to be a tight fit. I finally found a door that would work.

First a look at what #2 looked like inside before the modifications.

And a shot outside.

I marked the door where I hoped I would want it to be. The door is nearly the same height as the entry door. I wanted the lower part of the door the same height as the entry door. The door frame flange had to set back just a bit from the corner canvas line to look right to me.

 

[ghcoe]

So now the scarry part. I had to transfer the pattern to the inside so I could confirm the door placement and transfer the pattern to the inside. I drilled holes and pushed skewers through at the radius points.

Then I verified the transfer was correct by using the skewers as a guide on the door frame.

Then I used the frame to transfer the pattern to the inside.

 

[ghcoe]

Then it was time to do the surgery. I used a piece of flashing for a straight edge and a box cutter to cut the canvas with on the outside and inside.

Then I peeled the canvas off the walls.

Then I cut the foam out with a jig saw. I cut back from the edge enough for me to use a hot wire for the final cut. I did this because often the blade on a jig saw will wander and I did not want to damage the canvas covering the inside.

 

[ghcoe]

Next it was time to use a hot wire to make the final cut.

The hot wire makes nice clean cuts and does not harm the canvas.

The compartment wall is going to actually intrude into the door opening about a quarter inch. I am using flashing to convert the door to a clamp ring type installation. There is a conflict at this location since I didn't want the flashing on the inside where the wall was going to be. So, to overcome this I am creating a groove for the front camp ring to fit into.

 

[ghcoe]

Now I had to cut the floor mats to accommodate the walls that are going to be installed.

Then it was time to cut the walls.

On the ends of the walls, I hotwired a dove tail groove. This will allow a place for the Great Stuff to expand into and create a stronger bond to the other walls.

 

[ghcoe]

Once the walls are in place, I drilled holes into the dovetail groove big enough to insert the Great Stuff tube into. Then I injected Great Stuff into the dovetail groove. At this point the Great Stuff has filled the dovetail and is oozing out of the holes and imperfections in the wall joints.

Once the Great Stuff cures I clean up the areas it oozed out off and then I apply Dap caulking to all the edges.

You can see now how the front wall intrudes into the compartment a bit.

 

[ghcoe]

So now it is time to install the door. I use flashing on the inside and then clamp the door (after installing the butyl sealant) and the flashing together, sandwiching the foam in-between. Then I install Truss Screws through the door frame (through holes I predrilled) into the flashing.

This is what it looks like once installed on the inside.

 

[ghcoe]

Now I moved inside again to install the shelves.

First, I cut some shelves to fit.

Next it was time to cut grooves into the walls and the end of the shelves where they come together with the walls.

Here you can see the process. Back wall is the layout. Right wall is the groove cutout. Left wall has the foam jointer mocked in place. The jointer will be glued into the groove in the wall and in the shelf once everything is installed.

 

[ghcoe]

Here you can see the jointers installed in the walls and the shelf sliding into them.

Here you can see the shelves test fitted.

When the shelves were test fitted I marked the front, top and bottom edge of the shelf at the front edge. I then used a box cutter to cut at these marks once the shelves were removed.

 

[ghcoe]

Then I use a soldering Gun to cut grooves into the wall where I cut earlier.

Then I use a little piece of flashing to test fit before gluing in the shelves.

Satisfied, I glue in the Shelves and install the front shelf supports

 

[ghcoe]

The flashing goes into the wall about 1" one each side. This adds extra strength to the shelf edge. Once I got the bottom piece in, I installed another piece of flashing on top.

Once the flashing is in place, I use some clamps to squeeze the flashing together. I use a piece of wood on the bottom and top to spread the squeezing force across the whole shelf. I also place a piece of 1x4 across the front for a shelf edge. I drill through the 1x4 but not the flashing. then I use a Truss Screw and screw it into the flashing. This holds the shelf edge in place as well as screw the flashing together to keep the flashing tightly clamped on the foam.

A picture of the shelves installed.

Not shown is that everywhere there is bare foam I installed black indoor/outdoor carpeting. Looks nice and is easier to install than PMF at this point.