#2

featherliteCT1":1o3dc0lo said:
Those shelves look great! :thumbsup:

Thanks! I thought they turned out pretty good. I was pleased with how things all slid together.
 
So, in the back compartment I needed to make a couple of shelves. One shelf would just slide in to hold my Coleman stove, the other for my 12V refrigerator.

I made a light frame at the back of the compartment. This spaced out the distance so my drawer slides I got would clear the door frame. I used flashing for the shelf slide supports.

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On the front wall I channeled the foam with a soldering gun similar to how I did the channel in the door frame. This is where the flashing will be glued into the wall. I had to use a small spacer behind the channel so the shelf sliders would clear the door frame.

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Then I installed the shelf sliders.

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The top shelf is for the 12V refrigerator the bottom one is for the Colman stove. The top shelf has the roller shelf sliders so the cooler can be moved in and out of the doorway. The bottom shelf is actually just designed to slide onto the rails I made with flashing. This is so I can take the whole shelf out with the stove since the stove is only in there for transport.

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I installed some locks on the shelves so they wouldn't slide back and forth in transit.

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Then it was a test fit before adding indoor outdoor carpeting.

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Sparksalot":1pc177di said:
Proving again that a teardrop is never finished.

Looks very good, and integrated.

Seems like there is always an improvement to be made. Thanks!
 
ghcoe":309w53sr said:

Sometimes when I close my eyes at night all I see is that silly pink panther. Unapprovingly raising his brow at me, judging me, mocking me.

The hot wire cutting looks surgical, and probably a whole lot less dust too. Taking notes.
 
jakejakejake":39yiiqjs said:
The hot wire cutting looks surgical, and probably a whole lot less dust too. Taking notes.

One of the reasons I like the hot wire, no mess. Just try not to breath in the fumes.

Cutting the foam with a hot wire makes a nice clean cut, yes you could say surgical. :thumbsup:
 
Some more improvements to #2 since last update.

Shortly after installing the soft ride spring kit, I noticed some tire wear. Not related to the spring kit but I bent the axle or a spindle on the trail someplace. It was bound to happen, and I am surprised it took that long before I had a issue.

I ordered a 3500lbs axle from Compact Camping Concepts https://compactcampingstore.com/product ... 0-lb-axles . They will make them to the specs you need. You can see the big difference in the two axles.

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Piece of cake to install. Unbolt old axle and bolt in new axle.

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I gained quite a bit of lift with the axle swap. The new axle is a bigger diameter and had a spring perch on it which gave me about a 3" gain on lift at the hub. I had ordered the new axle with 5 lug hubs, so it was time to finally move to a 15" trailer wheel/tire.

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This gave me even more lift!

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I don't think I will be bending any axles with this set up.
 
Kind of why I started out with the big axle, I guess. Looks like you will need much larger fenders for sure now.
 
KCStudly":1noen59c said:
Kind of why I started out with the big axle, I guess. Looks like you will need much larger fenders for sure now.

They look a bit small, but I have been running them for quite a few trips now. Probably will get something bigger someday.
 
My next foamie accessory is a tongue rack. Basically a rack to hold two Jerry cans and a spare tire for the trailer and also act as a stone guard. I used unistrut, pcv pipe and carriage bolts for the frame. Worked out pretty good.

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Once I got the frame built, I bolted it to the trailer tongue. I used self-tapping screws to screw on some indoor/outdoor carpeting to the frame. This made the rack look better and also acts as a stone guard for the trailer and Jerry cans.

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That looks like a pretty tidy solution. :thumbsup:

Is the PVC just to protect the plastic jugs from rubbing on threaded rod? Hoping you used nuts on the inside to jam the strut onto the threaded rod, making the rod the thing that takes any loads and not the PVC. Just saying, the PVC doesn't take structural loads well, especially not impacts which tend to shatter it, even more so when exposed to UV light over time.

I'd be interested to see how you keep the jugs from bouncing up; is there a hold down or bungie cord feature?

Again, that looks like a good fit for your rig. :thumbsup:
 
KCStudly":2wfn2scl said:
That looks like a pretty tidy solution. :thumbsup:

Is the PVC just to protect the plastic jugs from rubbing on threaded rod? Hoping you used nuts on the inside to jam the strut onto the threaded rod, making the rod the thing that takes any loads and not the PVC. Just saying, the PVC doesn't take structural loads well, especially not impacts which tend to shatter it, even more so when exposed to UV light over time.

I'd be interested to see how you keep the jugs from bouncing up; is there a hold down or bungie cord feature?

Again, that looks like a good fit for your rig. :thumbsup:

The PVC pipe is a spacer and anti rub against the thread on the carriage bolts in some places. I used washers on the inside channel where the PVC comes up against the unistrut. There is not much pressure on the PVC just enough to make it snug. The carpet is wrapped around the PVC pipe so none of the PVC is exposed to UV light.

No hold down or bungie, just gravity. The pockets are pretty deep so I would doubt that they could ever come out of there. A extra bonus is that the fit is pretty tight and when the tanks expand you have to let the air out of the cans to get them out of the pocket.
 
What was your old axle load rating and how heavy is your trailer when you off the road? Although I am not planning for much of off-roading with my current setup, but.. just good to know for my next build plans.
 
OP827":1kfxesdf said:
What was your old axle load rating and how heavy is your trailer when you off the road? Although I am not planning for much of off-roading with my current setup, but.. just good to know for my next build plans.

The trailer I based this build on was similar to the Harbor Freight 1195# trailer. The axle was pretty light U channel. I am actually surprised it lasted as long as it did.

The trailer is about 550# dry and 750#-800# loaded for a trip. Most of that is water and fuel.
 

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