6 X 10 (V-nose) build

[Modstock]

Today I put a deposit down to get our trailer built.

Still have one thing to work out with the double barn doors. The cam lock is on the right side, that door overlaps the left. If they put the RV latch on the right door like I wanted , the cam bar would block that making the latch useless.
Hopefully they'll be able to put the cam lock on the left side. They will call me Monday.
Also test-towed a 6x12 flat nose. Had a hard time getting to 65mph . Jeep needs a tuneup.

Here's a re-cap of our story. We had a teardrop trailer since 2012 . Recently sold it to make way for something we could stand in and cook in extreme weather.
I love winter camping. [emoji16]

Pic of the bigger trailer I tested.

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[hankaye]

Modstock, Howdy;

On my CT I have a cargo door latch on the front man door. It lays across the middle
of the Man door latch. Why ???? Well it keeps folks from opening the Man Door and
getting in when I don't want them to. Now when I wish to only use the door for access
say, at a campground I would secure the cargo latch out of the way and so that someone
couldn't lock me in by being a "Nice Guy" and locking the latch while I'm inside, perhaps
napping.
Some folks have used and additional securing mechanism some drill a hole and use an eye-bolt
and both use a padlock to keep it there.

Something to consider, toss it around see which side shows up on top the most ...

hank

 

[Rainier70]

I am not sure that I am following what you mean on the latch for your barndoors, but as I see it the latch needs to be on the overlapping door in order to function properly. Otherwise it would not be able to open when the other door is locked in place.

What I did with my barndoors is that I put internal slide latches on the top and bottom of the barndoor that is overlapped to lock it in place.
Then I put a gate latch on the inside of the overlapping door. That way I can undo the cam lock on the outside and have the doors locked or openable from the inside.

I would think that it would work about the same if you we using a RV latch on the overlapping door.

 

[Modstock]

I guess I'll have to keep the actual bar on the overlapping door and have them install the RV latch (both on right door).
Then I can put slide locks inside the left door.

This is the best pic of the rear doors cam bar.

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[McDave-TNT]

It is probably not the weight that is keeping the Jeep from reaching it normal cruising speed. That looks a lot like my set up only my TV is a 3/4 ton van. It is like a shoe box pulling a parachute aerodynamically speaking. Your rig isn't a whole lot sexier in that respect. There may not be a lot you can do about that. Possibly a deflector or a wing on the TV to get the air over the trailer like you would see on semi tractors. But mostly you just have to grin and bear it. Sorry about that. C'est laVie say the old folks...

McDave

 

[onehoser]

I guess I'll have to keep the actual bar on the overlapping door and have them install the RV latch (both on right door).
Then I can put slide locks inside the left door.

This is the best pic of the rear doors cam bar.

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i also plan on installing slide bolts on the left cargo door but only installing latch on the inside of the right door, mostly as a second 'escape' door. i had an rv latch (aka flat latch) installed from the factory on the mandoor because it's quite a work intensive project that could easily turn into a nightmare as i learned with my 5x8 conversion, lol

 

[Modstock]

I'll probably do some things to help aero on the jeep. Remove the awning from the side and make a slightly bigger wind deflector with more angle at the front of the roof rack. Maybe even a deflector at the rear too.
Took some temps on my factory muffler. It was hotter than the cat [emoji33]. So a new hi-flo muffler is ordered.

My boss gave me these "slam-locks" for the left door. Our main entry will be through the rear and the man door will be an emergency exit.
My floor plan is the opposite of what others have done.
Now our bulldog gets a spot of his own and can go on every camping trip.

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[Modstock]

Talked to the factory yesterday and sounds like they'll be able to do the things I asked for. [emoji4]
Im so excited. Probably order my windows today.

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[Modstock]

I couldn't wait and ordered a low profile metal lid for the roof vent. [emoji16]
This should knock off 2" on the overall height. [emoji597]

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[Modstock]

I received a call today. Trailer is done.
Going to pick it up tomorrow morning.
[emoji3][emoji869][emoji16][emoji3][emoji3]

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[Modstock]

Quoting Johnny cash.
"I picked it up at the factory , it's cheaper that way". [emoji4]

Drove down to Springville to get the new trailer. It's a shorter drive .

Im so excited. Not sure if I'll sleep tonight.
Turned out great with the RV latches.

Tows real smooth and cuts through the wind way better than that flat nose I tested.
65-70 was possible. [emoji6]
Still need to get the nose down a bit more .
Im sure that'll help some.

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[Modstock]

When I hooked up I realized the wiring adapter I got was wrong.
Went down the street to the flying J but they didn't have anything. LOOK recommend AAA trailers also down the street.
After trying a few things, we finally found an adapter to get the brake lights and turn signals working. Couldn't get the park lights to work but no biggie , it's daytime.[emoji4]

Turns out , the adapter is just what I needed for a 4-flat to 7 plug with wire's to tie in a brake controller.

When backing in the trailer at home I had my lights on and suddenly the trailer lights turned on.
I think it was grounding through the vehicle. I need to hook up the ground on the adapter (trailer end) I think that should fix it.

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[McDave-TNT]

WooHoo!
Let the games begin. Nice little rig, Modstock.
Enjoy!

McDave

 

[Modstock]

Thanks.
Hopefully this weekend I'll swap out the roof vent lid , so I can put it in the shop and pick up a brake controller.

My boss loaned me some drop hitches to see what works.
According to the e-trailer measurements, I need a 9" drop. Seems like alot.[emoji54]





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[Modstock]

Started to do the roof vent. Pretty much ready to swap quickly but it's very windy today and I painted the new lid white.
While waiting for that .
Garage height looks like it'll work with the new lid.

Testing a 8" drop hitch , the trailer is perfectly level (unloaded).
I think I'll go up a inch for heavy loads.

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[McDave-TNT]

That a boy! Fingers crossed it'll fit in the shop.
That's a pretty big drop but whatever it takes. Tow vehicle and trailer should be level to slight nose down when towing. This keeps weight on the hitch and prevents the trailer from "bucking". I'll be looking to upgrade to brakes for my trailer soon too. Makes for less white knuckles in the mountains and rain/snow.

McDave

 

[Modstock]

I tried out a 7- 1/2" drop. Since I do alot of dirt roads, I think this will do.
I can adjust the bags if I need.
Not liking the adjustable unit with all the extra unnecessary play. Plus it's really long. So I'll be ordering a one piece unit.

Also picked a trailer brake controller.
I know I'll have to run a blue wire back to the adapter for the brakes.

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[bigdave_185]

Where @ in slc are ya.


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[Modstock]

PM'd ya BigDave.

New lid is on. Looks like I'll have a few inches to clear. Pic # 1, 2 .
This swap went from 3-1/2" to 1- 1/4".

Also started mocking up my floor plan.
Pic # 3, 4

A queen size mattress will fit with 7.5" to spare. Which gave me an idea. A location for the spare along the wall there. Measurements are perfect.

My window location on the door side has changed. According to the paper stapled to the wall, it shows the framing inside. The window wont fit there but....I can move it farther back with no issues.
(Last pic)

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[Modstock]

Just ordered the windows, should be here next week-ish .
A 14x21 for behind the man door and a slightly bigger 18x27 for the driver's side.

I think 9 sheets of insulation will be needed at least from my calculations.[emoji6]
We'll see about that.

Hopefully tear down should be in the next few weeks.
Luckily I have a sheet of Luann left over from the teardrop I can use somewhere also.

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