6' x 12' CTC = started updating

I like the idea for your radio in the back of the trailer. Thing about doing something like this to hide the spring for the rear door on my trailer.
 
bullchuck1":23qz7312 said:
I like the idea for your radio in the back of the trailer. Thing about doing something like this to hide the spring for the rear door on my trailer.

Mark, I had a hard time, what to do with the front top corner curves and that back area where the speakers are now. Something had to fill that space.. (speakers) duh?? worked for me.. :thumbsup:
 
FYI: We've made a couple changes in our CTC design..

The RVlovent fan I purchased from Amazon, instead of a traditional Fantastic Fan.. has been doing great.. it has been running almost constantly with the heat we have been having.. the motor does not get hot. I will be buying another one here in the near future, for our regular travel trailer we live in..

I had mentioned I did not want to add any windows to this conversion for fear of leaking. Well after having constant heat at over 100 degrees here in our area days straight now. The Fan on top of the trailer can not pull enough air through the 2 factory installed 4 inch vents to make a difference in cooling down the trailer.. example: 102 outside, 100 inside..

So I bit the bullet and cut the hole for and installed a 18" x 25" window in the back corner of the trailer. Now with the fan running on top of the trailer pulling out, and window open to let air in. It drops the temp inside the trailer almost 10 degrees.. that's a win.. when it's 102-104 outside.. :thumbsup:
 
bdosborn":3r1i2omy said:
What, no pictures?
Bruce

:LOL: got me.. not my fault, tnttt didn't load them .....

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Was so easy to cut. Bosch sabre saw w/fine tooth blade cut through the plywood, foam and metal with no vibration or jumping. I was surprised. Not sealed yet, or screwed in permanently..
Was lucky enough, I didn't have to cut any wall studs to install it..
 
bdosborn":4yt5xa6a said:
What, no pictures?
Bruce

Bruce, aka (Mr. Spark).
I can use your help please?
Electrical knowledge evades my brain for the most part.. when it comes to all the addons some of you do..
Let me explain,
I have this solar kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF ... =UTF8&th=1
added this panel: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocryst ... JY35&psc=1
Then I added this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P ... UTF8&psc=1

With what I have, would this battery work for me? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088RM4W48/re ... HJ1ZQ&th=1

I have a RVlovent fan on the roof, two interior lights, (want to add some type of inverter to use coffee maker for the first morning cup..)
and maybe add a DC cooler some time later..

We only boondock a couple times a year.. also would like to travel some and not have to worry about a shore connection all the time..

Bruce, any of your help on this would be greatly appreciated, Thank you ...
 
You have a PWM solar controller so you'll need to make sure you connect your PV panels in parallel, not in series. The controller is pretty cheap but will work well enough to get you started. I'd replace it with an MPPT controller if it fails down the road. Don't expect much help from Renogy if anything fails, they have a poor warranty reputation on the net. The PV panels are fine, a lot of people are happy with Renogy panels. I think your meter only measures current in one direction so it won't keep track of the energy going back into the battery from the PV panels. You'll have to reset the meter every day after your battery is charged (PITA). I'd use a true battery monitor instead. The Aili Battery Meter would be easier to use as it tracks current in and out of the battery so you don't have to reset it every day.

That battery is pretty large for your use case, I would get a 100A-hr battery to begin with and then see if it's big enough. You can add another battery after a year if it's too small. You can't add batteries later with lead acid but you can with LiFePO4.
Will Prowse on YouTube has reviewed the Ampere Time batteries, I'd watch a few of his videos to see what they are like as I don't know anything about that brand.

Hope this helps,
Bruce
 
bdosborn":3icyy8q1 said:
You have a PWM solar controller so you'll need to make sure you connect your PV panels in parallel, not in series. The controller is pretty cheap but will work well enough to get you started. I'd replace it with an MPPT controller if it fails down the road. Don't expect much help from Renogy if anything fails, they have a poor warranty reputation on the net. The PV panels are fine, a lot of people are happy with Renogy panels. I think your meter only measures current in one direction so it won't keep track of the energy going back into the battery from the PV panels. You'll have to reset the meter every day after your battery is charged (PITA). I'd use a true battery monitor instead. The Aili Battery Meter would be easier to use as it tracks current in and out of the battery so you don't have to reset it every day.

That battery is pretty large for your use case, I would get a 100A-hr battery to begin with and then see if it's big enough. You can add another battery after a year if it's too small. You can't add batteries later with lead acid but you can with LiFePO4.
Will Prowse on YouTube has reviewed the Ampere Time batteries, I'd watch a few of his videos to see what they are like as I don't know anything about that brand.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Bruce, it does all help.. :thumbsup:
I knew you get me on track.. Thank you..
I'll use the Renogy kit I have purchased, can change out the PWM later..
I will drop down to a 100ah battery for now.. haven't purchased the battery yet..
Everything I'm hooking up to test for now, I'm using the one out of the mini conversion van.
It needs to go back in the van to sell it..
I made the mistake adding lead batteries at different times to an existing system on a party pontoon boat.. didn't work..
eventually had to replace all 3 new.. expensive mistake..
 
Bruce, after watching Will Prowse video, for the Ampere Batteries, scrap that one..

Working on my order list:

Weize 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery, (Will Gives it the best review for the battery price range) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09F2 ... T4BZ7&th=1

AiLi Battery Monitor https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CT ... UTF8&psc=1

Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 20 amp 12-24-48 Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N ... DKXX&psc=1

I'm not real sure about what amp I should get the MPPT.. I do know you use Victron.
Anything you think I should change, please let me know..
 
The Victron 20A MPPT controller will support three 100W panels. It's always good to have a little spare MPPT capacity so you add more panels in the future. I bought all my Victron stuff from Continuous Resources. They are an authorized dealer, match Amazon prices, have free shipping and offer a 10% discount code of DIY10. I saved a bunch of $$$ using the discount code.

Continuous Resources

You can wire your panels in series with the MPPT controller, there are positive and negatives galore on the two different connections.

Bruce
 
Thank you, so much Bruce..

bdosborn":1frus3ez said:
The Victron 20A MPPT controller will support three 100W panels. It's always good to have a little spare MPPT capacity so you add more panels in the future. I bought all my Victron stuff from Continuous Resources. They are an authorized dealer, match Amazon prices, have free shipping and offer a 10% discount code of DIY10. I saved a bunch of $$$ using the discount code.

Continuous Resources

You can wire your panels in series with the MPPT controller, there are positive and negatives galore on the two different connections.

Bruce

OK, Thank you Bruce.. I knew you'd be able to help me..
I will go with my list for now and start ordering what I can through Continuous Resources for the savings.. :thumbsup:
I only get 5% savings through Amazon.. :roll:
 
.
With a little heat drop, here in our area.. I was finally able to start work on the air conditioner unit slide out.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I had ordered a SEAFLO Marine Deck Access Hatch & Lid - (20" x 18")

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088HGNXR9?ps ... ct_details

These hatch's work great for boats as well as RV's, and most of the time cost less.. are easy to add locks to also.. this one, I will not be adding locks.. no need..

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Marked everything very carefully for the cut out with the help of my best friend.. cutting the hole from the inside, as this is an addition to the conversion.. through the plywood, 1" foam and the exterior metal..
After marking the opening.. I drilled a hole near each corner radius.. large enough for the saw blade to go through.. then slowly cut the hole.. using a long fine tooth blade..

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The well designed hatch frame that screws to the side of the trailer.. has a lip that allows plenty of caulking to be used where the screws will seal the lip against the exterior metal.. please be careful not to over tighten the screws.. and the caulking will not squeeze out like on so many other types of hatches.. the caulking squeezes in to the opening around the flange of the hatch.. leaving no mess of caulk to clean up later on the exterior..

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Now to start work on the cabinet with the drawer rails.. so the air conditioner can mount to the rails and slide out the hatch when being used..
 
Staying with the rustic look, with the wood I already have on hand..
I started laying out my first cabinet for the trailer..
it will be the cabinet the air conditioner sets on. and will have the drawer slides mounted to.

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With the frame and panel sides for the cabinets to keep the weight down.. 5mm revolution ply
along with dog eared rough pine fence planks.. cut down for the rails.. the fence planks are good and dry, 5/8" thick and very light..
just cut around some of the knots, leave others for character.. :roll:
Once sanded and coated with the urethane, should look great.. :thinking:
 
Staryder61":2s04audv said:
Staying with the rustic look, with the wood I already have on hand..

I'm doing the same thing, using up that pile of wood that has been in my garage for years. :thumbsup:
Bruce
 
>>> Bruce, after watching Will Prowse video, for the Ampere Batteries, scrap that one..

Huh....... All the Prowse videos I watched on Ampere Time were pretty positive. I own two now, couldn't be happier with the batteries or the customer service as I had contacted them to ask a few simple questions after the sale and they responded immediately.

I've watched Prowse cut an awful lot of batteries apart at this point and frankly, certainly over the last year, they all seem pretty much the same inside anyhow.
 
bdosborn":2dc82nt6 said:
No action here for awhile, are you still building?
Bruce

Busted!!! :eek: No building here right now.... :(
Thanks for checking Bruce.. actually the Tackle Box, has been put to another use for now, moving..
and has paid for itself in that task... :thumbsup:
On the building (conversion) of our camper.. this move will help..
First thing we did when we found a place to move to,, was buy a building and have it set up in the back yard for a shop.. :thumbsup:
The shop was set up before we finished moving in.. :roll: PRIORITY"S MAN PRIORITY"S :applause:

Now the weather is changing to cooler, so hopefully start back to work on the Tackle Box..
Having a dry comfortable shop to work in,, should make a big difference.. :thumbsup:
 
Staryder61":29dx0h31 said:
Now the weather is changing to cooler, so hopefully start back to work on the Tackle Box..
Having a dry comfortable shop to work in,, should make a big difference.

Keep us posted!
Bruce
 
Hi David,

We've been away for a while and, when I check back, you moved your home. Hopefully it was your decision and on your timeline. Looking forward to seeing your build progress after you get re-established.

Take care,
Tom
 

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