A folding wooden camper

[Paintsalot]

I worked on a dry fit of the lower walls (that don’t fold) today. It’s still cold here and this 1950’s garage has no heat. Maybe a Mr buddy propane. It has carriage doors - no insulation anywhere… but glad I have it.

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[Paintsalot]

P.s. one of the folding end walls is just laying on top.


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[DougH71]

I (kinda) get how you laminated the roof arches. How are they fastened to the walls? For that matter, what size are they and how did you determine that size? Did you consider purlins running front to back?

 

[Paintsalot]

I (kinda) get how you laminated the roof arches. How are they fastened to the walls? For that matter, what size are they and how did you determine that size? Did you consider purlins running front to back?

Hi Doug- arch purlins are transverse for aesthetics, I want to see the arch shape, and to get an even curve in the roof plywood. Yes they could easily go longitudinally. I based the size just on instinct. I don’t have a way to calculate stresses. About 1”x1.5” cross section. The arches will tie to roof sides, not wall. Because the roof is removable. Butt joint or mortised . I’ll work out the connection as I go. It’s drawn in Sketchup. Hope that helps explain.

 

[Paintsalot]

I (kinda) get how you laminated the roof arches. How are they fastened to the walls? For that matter, what size are they and how did you determine that size? Did you consider purlins running front to back?

Ps - if it seems like they aren’t strong enough I can always add longitudinal ones or more transverse ones as needed. The structure will be open to underside.

 

[Paintsalot]

Upper starboard wall frame built today. 1x2 select pine. Painted the bow end wall too in Viking oil paint.
Next in line:
-port wall frame like above
- add 1/4 Acx ply
- connect with hinges to low walls
- disassemble upper/lower walls
- glue/screw low walls to trailer floor
-


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[S. Heisley]

It looks like you're planning to add a vent in your roof. I hope you haven't cut the roof yet. Word to the Wise: What I found with mine was that the measurements the manufacturer gave were for the vent but not for the knob to open it. (The knob sticks down farther.) So, I have a vent but I have to carry the knob in a separate location and put it on when the roof is up as there wasn't enough room to leave it on all the time. (However, because of my window and door locations, I find I never need to open the vent at all.)

 

[Paintsalot]

It looks like you're planning to add a vent in your roof. I hope you haven't cut the roof yet. Word to the Wise: What I found with mine was that the measurements the manufacturer gave were for the vent but not for the knob to open it. (The knob sticks down farther.) So, I have a vent but I have to carry the knob in a separate location and put it on when the roof is up as there wasn't enough room to leave it on all the time. (However, because of my window and door locations, I find I never need to open the vent at all.)

Thanks Sharon! For now I’m planning to just forego the roof vent and all electrical- headed towards more of a hard sided tent. I can always add a few battery operated puck lights and such. I might get one of those portable batteries and plug it to a 12v fan since I’m in the deep south. I’ll have three screened windows that operate. I usually don’t camp in the middle of the Summer. Maybe I should get a pass through plug connection in case I ever want to plug in. I forget what they’re called. I have one of those in room air conditioners that I could just bring in my car and walk it over to camper if I ever want to camp in the middle of the July at a campground with power. I mostly camp off grid.
I’m having trouble figuring out how to get this thing built and get all my other projects done! Currently, I’m renovating my art studio.

 

[Paintsalot]

Today I built another skeleton frame with a kreg jig, for upper folding wall. The last one out of 8 total upper and lower wall panels, yay. I decided to make the upper walls taller than 4ft, so I’ll have about 6’-10” headroom once set up. I’m making edits in Sketch-up as I go and can check things that way.
I took most of February and March to renovate the bathroom in my art studio, and I’m almost done, so the camper may gain momentum again. I camped a week ago in the Ozark National Forest and did some painting. Storms came through. Camping in my little three person nylon tent is motivating me to get the camper built!
What have you found to be good ways to stay motivated?


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[Paintsalot]

Installed the first window today! It’s in the car side end wall. This is exterior view. Stainless hinges with security screws. I have some awning hold open hardware- I hope it will work.
Because this camper folds down, everything has to fit in layers like a big sandwich. I can’t have anything sticking up anywhere.
The hold open device is going to be a tight fit.
This window will be under the roof when I’m traveling, so it only has to keep the rain out when I’m actually camping.


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[OP827]

I think that awning windows are good idea, keeps the rain out and simple to build and maintain. You are making good progress
BTW, I had to fabricate custom stays for my build awning windows.

 

[Paintsalot]

I think that awning windows are good idea, keeps the rain out and simple to build and maintain. You are making good progress
BTW, I had to fabricate custom stays for my build awning windows.

Thanks- I was originally just going to use something made of wood to prop up the windows, but I found these stainless hold opens for $10. They’re adjustable. More soon.

 

[Paintsalot]

Debating about stair design… step stool vs removable stair with hardware to attach. Anyone tried these? Probably only issue for stand up camper.

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[S. Heisley]

Go for Option #1.
I use a pre-made step stool. I think it was from Rubbermaid. It has a nice grate-like surface on the steps which keep the feet from slipping and keeps the interior a tad cleaner. When I travel, I turn the step stool upside down and use it for an additional box to hold things I transport. That way, it takes up no additional space in my vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-2-Ste ... 9hdGY&th=1

With your option#2, the stairs are open and appear to take up a bit more room. Because of their open design, they can serve only one purpose. Since our units are small, we need to take advantage of any space we have.

 

[Paintsalot]

Step stool doesn’t require any set up at least. Just pull out of camper and go.
The stairs look more traditional Vardo.


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[Paintsalot]

I could make a folding stool like this too. More work…
My door is 2’-4” wide, so steps need to be fairly wide.


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[S. Heisley]

Step stool doesn’t require any set up at least. Just pull out of camper and go.
The stairs look more traditional Vardo.


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True.

Remember that they will be slippery when wet. Maybe you can add some sort of handle near the door to add stability.

 

[Paintsalot]

Step stool doesn’t require any set up at least. Just pull out of camper and go.
The stairs look more traditional Vardo.


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True.

Remember that they will be slippery when wet. Maybe you can add some sort of handle near the door to add stability.

Aluminum fold up RV steps possible option for light and compact. Plus adjustable height if uneven ground. https://a.co/d/cjgQBOj
I’m only going up about 18”
No style points though on aluminum fold up.
Maybe I need two steps, one for the Renaissance Festival, and one for off grid. Lol

 

[FischAutoTechGarten]

Regarding steps.... depending on the total height that you need to overcome will determine the appropriate number of steps..

Here's a neat example of a single step solution for the Chesepeake Light Craft Tear Drop Camper contributed by an individual... I like the way it just simply stows out of the way when you aren't using it. Obviously it's design is a both simple and elegant, which is a common theme for all things CLC Tear Drop.... owners value both form and function.

https://teardropforum.com/forums/topic/ ... d-trailex/

He even includes the cut files if you want to cut it with a CNC machine.

 

[Paintsalot]

Regarding steps.... depending on the total height that you need to overcome will determine the appropriate number of steps..

Here's a neat example of a single step solution for the Chesepeake Light Craft Tear Drop Camper contributed by an individual... I like the way it just simply stows out of the way when you aren't using it. Obviously it's design is a both simple and elegant, which is a common theme for all things CLC Tear Drop.... owners value both form and function.

https://teardropforum.com/forums/topic/ ... d-trailex/

He even includes the cut files if you want to cut it with a CNC machine.

Nice idea on the CLC. I looked at making one of those CLC teardrops.
The rise is about 18 inches from the ground to the camper floor. So it’s either three 6” risers, and two treads, or two risers and one tread. I worked as an architect for 22 years so I got to design plenty of stairwells. I’m torn between doing something purely functional, versus something that has artistic flare.

The bigger design issue is how to lift the roof!!. More on that soon.