AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

[Shadow Catcher]

Anything that physically isolates the AC from a mechanical/physical connection will reduce sound transmission. from 14+ years experience now, a good percentage of the time ours gets left home. I will be interested in seeing what you come up with.

 

[working on it]

... It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time and two, being that the restriction of the hoses creates a flow problem. Obviously all of this is to try to eliminate some of the bone rattling noise of an AC in a small trailer.

I am trying to work out a different version where the window AC unit is permanently housed in a tongue box with some sort of sound buffering short ducting perhaps made of soft rubber. The storage box would also need to be somehow insulated from the trailer frame to further reduce vibration and noise. The controls would need to be rewired to be inside as you have done. Is it possible to greatly reduce the noise this way?....

Didn't hack my A/C, but mounted on the rear bulkhead between cabin and galley. Firmly mounted, with no rattling nor noise.

Of course, the humming drone of the A/C compressor is virtually a "white noise" that helps me sleep, by covering sounds from outside the cabin, and partially obscuring my tinnitus. Ever since we used window units back in the 50's thru 70's, I always regarded the sound of running window units as soothing. Maybe it's just my opinion.

Instead of putting my A/C unit outside in the elements, subject to damage, theft, or possibly a short circuit (of the controls), I did a different "hack" by making my A/C exhaust exit to the side thru ducting, and I can close and lock my galley hatch while it's running overnite. Sure, it takes up a lot of galley space, and I'd probably route the exhaust straight back thru the hatch instead of at a right-angle, but there's been no problems (nor flow restrictions) to worry about, for nine years of use.https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=54945&hilit=+ac+install

 

[StandUpGuy]

... It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time and two, being that the restriction of the hoses creates a flow problem. Obviously all of this is to try to eliminate some of the bone rattling noise of an AC in a small trailer.

I am trying to work out a different version where the window AC unit is permanently housed in a tongue box with some sort of sound buffering short ducting perhaps made of soft rubber. The storage box would also need to be somehow insulated from the trailer frame to further reduce vibration and noise. The controls would need to be rewired to be inside as you have done. Is it possible to greatly reduce the noise this way?....

Didn't hack my A/C, but mounted on the rear bulkhead between cabin and galley. Firmly mounted, with no rattling nor noise.



Of course, the humming drone of the A/C compressor is virtually a "white noise" that helps me sleep, by covering sounds from outside the cabin, and partially obscuring my tinnitus. Ever since we used window units back in the 50's thru 70's, I always regarded the sound of running window units as soothing. Maybe it's just my opinion.

Instead of putting my A/C unit outside in the elements, subject to damage, theft, or possibly a short circuit (of the controls), I did a different "hack" by making my A/C exhaust exit to the side thru ducting, and I can close and lock my galley hatch while it's running overnite. Sure, it takes up a lot of galley space, and I'd probably route the exhaust straight back thru the hatch instead of at a right-angle, but there's been no problems (nor flow restrictions) to worry about, for nine years of use.https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=54945&hilit=+ac+install

I built a trailer several years ago. I had an AC built into the pop top. It was very noisy. No doubt due to the thin loose panel it was built into. I do not find the white noise pleasant for sleeping. Even a window unit installed in a house window is not pleasant to me. Everyone is different. A low hum is fine with me as one gets from a small humidifier. My goal would be something like that.

 

[Socal Tom]

I have added a picture of the inside of the adapter.

Hey I remember this thread from when you were creating it way back then. I was considering all of this in my soon to be new build. It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time

I consider the fact you remove the AC unit a positive feature. I only use mine once in a while. This saves weight and space if I don't bring it. Set up only takes 5 minutes.
Tom

 

[StandUpGuy]

I have added a picture of the inside of the adapter.

Hey I remember this thread from when you were creating it way back then. I was considering all of this in my soon to be new build. It seems that there are several short comings in all of this. One being that it needs to be set up at campsite each time

I consider the fact you remove the AC unit a positive feature. I only use mine once in a while. This saves weight and space if I don't bring it. Set up only takes 5 minutes.
Tom

I hear ya. Everybody has their own unique priorities as can be seen in the variety of trailers created.

 

[Shadow Catcher]

One of the things I have enjoyed with this thread is seeing the variations on a theme. One of the aspects of those with teardrops has been the willingness to share ideas and the shear inventiveness
.

 

[Tom&Shelly]

We decided to mount our ClimateRight AC/heater in the front of our teardrop, instead of setting it up outside, or having it partially acoustically isolated in a tongue box. The bulkhead between us and the front storage, where the AC/heater lives, is about an inch and a half sandwich of thin plywood over foam, as is the shelf between the space behind the headboard and the front storage compartment. Inside the tear, we hear very little noise from the AC/heater itself, just the sound of the air blowing out of the vent by our heads. This despite the fact we learned it works better not connecting the return hose (for AC or heat), so we left that hole open to the front storage. (BTW, we keep that front compartment door open for AC, but found it works much better--in fact is essential--to close it for heat.)

The AC/heater came with plastic legs, which I replaced with strips of wood and a quarter inch of rubber cut from a floor mat. The wood overhangs so I could screw it into the floor.

We're real happy with the way that turned out.

Tom

 

[Shadow Catcher]

One potential problem I see is what happens during rain, or when you drive into town?

 

[Tom&Shelly]

One potential problem I see is what happens during rain, or when you drive into town?

We only run the AC when we are in the teardrop. When we leave camp we close and lock the doors.

Rain hasn't been a real problem. The other things in the utility/storage compartment are towing and camping gear that tolerate wetness. Mostly though, the few times we've needed AC when it was raining, there was little wind. When we were in windy thunderstorms, the temps were such that we didn't need AC. The only problem was convincing Shelly to go out and close the door in the middle of the night when the conditions changed!

Tom

 

[Pixeltim]

We decided to mount our ClimateRight AC/heater in the front of our teardrop, instead of setting it up outside, or having it partially acoustically isolated in a tongue box. The bulkhead between us and the front storage, where the AC/heater lives, is about an inch and a half sandwich of thin plywood over foam, as is the shelf between the space behind the headboard and the front storage compartment. Inside the tear, we hear very little noise from the AC/heater itself, just the sound of the air blowing out of the vent by our heads. This despite the fact we learned it works better not connecting the return hose (for AC or heat), so we left that hole open to the front storage. (BTW, we keep that front compartment door open for AC, but found it works much better--in fact is essential--to close it for heat.)

The AC/heater came with plastic legs, which I replaced with strips of wood and a quarter inch of rubber cut from a floor mat. The wood overhangs so I could screw it into the floor.

We're real happy with the way that turned out.

Tom

If only those were still available.

 

[Shadow Catcher]

Yes it would appear the Climateright is still no longer available, on the way to look however this came up Dometic Freshwell 3000 Under Bench Air Conditioner
Please note: This is the replacement model for the Dometic HB2500 Under Bench Air Conditioner.

Combining a lightweight and superbly compact design with high quality engineering which makes it the most powerful air conditioner in its class, the Dometic Freshwell 3000 Under Bench Air Conditioner is designed specifically for use in motorhomes.

The Dometic Freshwell 3000 Under Bench Air Conditioner uses an energy efficient heat pump system for both heating and cooling and provides non-disruptive quiet air circulation.

Dometic Freshwell 3000 Under Bench Air Conditioner features
Cooling capacity: 2500 watts
Heating capacity (heat pump + heating element): up to 3000 watts
Soft start
Suitable for vehicles up to 8m in length
Very quiet air circulation
Adjustable air distribution
Dimensions (W x H x D): 628 x 286 x 400 mm
Weight: 21 kg
Will work with Dometic DC-KIT-3
Suitable Ducting Diametre 60mm

 

[Shadowcatche]

I did change hoses