Anyone complete a cedar sided trailer?

[WendellNV]

My plans are to build a light weight “Canned Ham” style “standy” that will pull easily behind a mid size suv/crossover. We currently have a Subaru Tribeca that is rated to tow 1,000 lbs w/o trailer brakes/3,500 lbs with.

Hoping to hear from anyone who has some experience using cedar as siding.

Concerning siding, I want to use cedar fence pickets on the sides and the flat surfaces on the front and rear to create a unique look. The roof (and most likely the front and rear radiuses) would be 1/4” plywood with PMF or fiberglass mat and epoxy. I may try to cover the radiuses, front and rear with cedar siding, but not sure if it is a good idea.

There is a YouTube channel call ENDGAME where there are videos showing slide in truck campers built using cedar fence pickets for framing as well as siding. There are some pictures online, but not sure how to add them to this post. Tried, but got an error message.

My concern is that a travel trailer may flex more then a truck camper and without solid sheeting, the integrity of the structure may suffer.

The idea is to plane the pickets to 1/2”, true up the long edges, rip them to a standard dimension, dado the long edges and short edges as needed, to create a ship lap siding.

Install directly to the framing using construction adhesive or Titebond II, nailing and/or screwing boards in place to help secure siding. Also apply flexible caulking at the dados to help make the lap joints water resistant.

After installation, apply a wood sealer and reapply yearly or as needed.

Any thoughts, ideas or comments appreciated!

Regards

 

[QueticoBill]

It can work, and think I've seen some pics. Stick framing or cut out plywood? Plywood on interior or something else?

 

[Pmullen503]

Why not sheathe with plywood? Even 1/8" luan sheathing adds tremendous rigidity.

Something to think about as well, when you are towing during a rain storm, water finds every gap. So plan accordingly. If no insulation, backside of siding open so it can dry, then ok. If not, give some thought to how any water that leaks past the siding can get back out.

 

[TimC-TNT]

After refinish in 2020

Finish your exterior walls flat on the bench. Let the finish soak in. First application was several coats of 50:50 Spar varnish:mineral spirits. Then several coats at 75:25. Then two coats 100%. Sealed any exposed end grain including end grain not exposed to highway wind/rain with skin coat of 100% silicone. Then waxed entire side walls.

Inspect, inspect, inspect. Monthly, yearly for any problem areas. There will be some. Regular inspections will eliminate blemishes from becoming problems.

Refinished once (2020) since original build in 2016. Spar varnish cut 50:50 with mineral spirits. Then 75:25, then 100%. It wasn't necessarily needed but I was doing a paint color change on roof and did a complete job.

Stored under cover most of the year.

There's a reason they stopped making woodie automobiles. The average auto owner is terrible with routine maintenance. But if you love wood and don't mind the maintenance go for it.

 

[WendellNV]

It can work, and think I've seen some pics. Stick framing or cut out plywood? Plywood on interior or something else?

I was thinking stick framed using 1x2’s ripped from Doug fir 2x4’s. Insulate stud bays with 3/4” foamular foam board. To keep weight down, no plywood except roof and front/back covered with PMF. Interior to be a marine type foam backed vinyl.

Those are my thoughts.

 

[WendellNV]

Why not sheathe with plywood? Even 1/8" luan sheathing adds tremendous rigidity.

Something to think about as well, when you are towing during a rain storm, water finds every gap. So plan accordingly. If no insulation, backside of siding open so it can dry, then ok. If not, give some thought to how any water that leaks past the siding can get back out.

I thought about the plywood, but attempting to keep weight down.

True luan seems to be hard to find.

2.7 mm project panels at HD weight about .3 lbs per square foot.

1/5” hardwood plywood panels at HD weigh about .65 lbs per square ft.

I was going to use foam board insulation in stud bays.

I could cut them a little smaller and use a non expanding foam to seal and glue them into the stud base. Then leave the bottom of the siding unglued to allow any trapped moisture to find its way out. Maybe a solution?

Would I have a problem with trapped moisture if I sheet exterior and putting cedar over ply?
Or just sheet the interior and use siding over studs on outside.

 

[Pmullen503]

My plans are to build a light weight “Canned Ham” style “standy” that will pull easily behind a mid size suv/crossover. We currently have a Subaru Tribeca that is rated to tow 1,000 lbs w/o trailer brakes/3,500 lbs with.

Hoping to hear from anyone who has some experience using cedar as siding.

Concerning siding, I want to use cedar fence pickets on the sides and the flat surfaces on the front and rear to create a unique look. The roof (and most likely the front and rear radiuses) would be 1/4” plywood with PMF or fiberglass mat and epoxy. I may try to cover the radiuses, front and rear with cedar siding, but not sure if it is a good idea.

.......

My concern is that a travel trailer may flex more then a truck camper and without solid sheeting, the integrity of the structure may suffer.

The idea is to plane the pickets to 1/2”, true up the long edges, rip them to a standard dimension, dado the long edges and short edges as needed, to create a ship lap siding.
........

If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes. That is, edge glue thin strips (1/4") and cover the front and back with glass cloth and epoxy. That encapsulates the cedar making it waterproof, and adds incredible strength. You can make them the size you need so you aren't limited to 4x8' plywood dimensions. You could make your flat panels on a table and then use them as you would plywood. You can also do the curved top with strips too, attaching the strips directly to the frame. The roof could be glassed or PMF. I did my hatch that way; wood strips covered with PMF.

 

[WendellNV]

After refinish in 2020

Finish your exterior walls flat on the bench. Let the finish soak in. First application was several coats of 50:50 Spar varnish:mineral spirits. Then several coats at 75:25. Then two coats 100%. Sealed any exposed end grain including end grain not exposed to highway wind/rain with skin coat of 100% silicone. Then waxed entire side walls.

Inspect, inspect, inspect. Monthly, yearly for any problem areas. There will be some. Regular inspections will eliminate blemishes from becoming problems.

Refinished once (2020) since original build in 2016. Spar varnish cut 50:50 with mineral spirits. Then 75:25, then 100%. It wasn't necessarily needed but I was doing a paint color change on roof and did a complete job.

Stored under cover most of the year.

There's a reason they stopped making woodie automobiles. The average auto owner is terrible with routine maintenance. But if you love wood and don't mind the maintenance go for it.

Bench building walls sounds like a great idea to help maintain consistency in the build and finish.

Concerning refinish, what prep work did you need to do? I was leaning towards a non varnish finish to avoid the need to sand or scrap old finish off.

During build, how did you attach cedar to exterior? Over time plywood sheathing or direct to studs?
I looked at you build post, and didn’t see details about that. I might have missed them.

I may be able to keep in garage if I can keep the total height the from ground under 89” or so. My garage door opening about 90”.

Thanks for your input.

Nice looking trailer btw!

Regards

 

[Tony Latham]

If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes.

I concur. Fiberglass/epoxy and spar varnish. Bulletproof and lightweight.

Tony

 

[WendellNV]

[/qoute] If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes. That is, edge glue thin strips (1/4") and cover the front and back with glass cloth and epoxy. That encapsulates the cedar making it waterproof, and adds incredible strength. You can make them the size you need so you aren't limited to 4x8' plywood dimensions. You could make your flat panels on a table and then use them as you would plywood. You can also do the curved top with strips too, attaching the strips directly to the frame. The roof could be glassed or PMF. I did my hatch that way; wood strips covered with PMF.[/quote]

Sounds like something I need to look into. I will check the build section. curious how
much weight glass and epoxy will add to the cedar. Naked 1/2” cedar weighs close to same as 1/4” ply.

Thanks for the input.

Regards

 

[WendellNV]

If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes.

I concur. Fiberglass/epoxy and spar varnish. Bulletproof and lightweight.

Tony

Sounds like I need to explore this idea some more. Thanks and regards!

 

[Tom&Shelly]

[/qoute]curious how
much weight glass and epoxy will add to the cedar. Naked 1/2” cedar weighs close to same as 1/4” ply.

Thanks for the input.

Regards

We did a lot of experimenting with epoxy, using some of it for other things besides our tear, so this is very rough, but we probably used a little less than 3 gallons (counting both epoxy and hardener). Not sure how epoxy compares with water, but it seems about the same. So maybe about 25 lbs. Obviously a very rough guestimate here!

Anyone have a better estimate?

Tom

 

[TimC-TNT]

...

Concerning refinish, what prep work did you need to do? I was leaning towards a non varnish finish to avoid the need to sand or scrap old finish off.

Hand sanded with a sanding block and used a small scraper to scrape out bits that were flaking away (not much). I really just needed to scratch the surface to get the new finish to adhere. Again, regular maintenance made refinishing easy. Neglected maintenance makes for a big task. Cleaned with mild detergent. Refinished. Not as easy on vertical walls compared to original build with walls laying down but doable.

During build, how did you attach cedar to exterior? Over time plywood sheathing or direct to studs?

Walls were 1X laying flat. Rigid foam insulation. 1/4" ply on outside and planks were glued (TBII) and brad nailed to the ply. Then finished laying flat on trailer bed.

Nice looking trailer btw!

Thanks, I like it. There are arguably better ways to do this (just listen to the epoxy fans). I just prefer not working with epoxy. A personal preference. I recognize that fiberglass may result in a more waterproof build but I have had no problems and I like the ease of PMF.

 

[Juneaudave]

Cedar strip in the style of a cedar strip canoe can work....this one was finished in 2008 and the pic was two years ago. 6 oz glass, epoxy and auto clear coat has worked well on this build.

 

[WendellNV]

If you are doing all that milling of lumber, you might as well use the same technique they use for cedar strip canoes.

I concur. Fiberglass/epoxy and spar varnish. Bulletproof and lightweight.

Tony

I love the idea of strip plank siding with fiberglass/epoxy, but the extra labor to make the strips seems daunting.
Do you think the fiberglass/epoxy would work well over 5” edge glued cedar board/planks?

Curved exterior surfaces with including roof could be 1/4 ply wood covered in glass/epoxy and left natural or painted a complimentary color.

Need to figure out the transition from 1/4 ply to 1/2” cedar planks. Maybe glass/epoxy all exterior surfaces as a complete unit.

Wendell

 

[Tony Latham]

Do you think the fiberglass/epoxy would work well over 5” edge glued cedar board/planks?

Since you're only sealing one side, I'd be concerned that the boards would still move with changes in humidity which would cause delamination.

but the extra labor to make the strips seems daunting.

I built a cedar strip canoe. I "gang-ripped" the strips (two at a time, with two blades, set 1/4" apart with washers) on a cheap table saw. It wasn't that big of a deal. It would have taken twice as long with one blade, but still no biggie.

From time to time here, I see folks that are newbies with little or no woodworking experience come up with experimental ideas that end in a camper that doesn't work out. I suggest using proven methods for your first.

Tony

 

[Pmullen503]

Ripping down boards for cedar strips is not hard. Thickness planing the strips makes for less sanding later.

I think you could use you 5" boards if you resaw, plane thin and edge glue on flat surface. Then cover BOTH sides with cloth and epoxy. At that point you'll have a composite panel that you can use like a sheet of plywood.

Tony is right about warping. Wood will expand and contract with changes in humidity unless encapsulated.

 

[friz-TNT]

Ripping down boards for cedar strips is not hard. Thickness planing the strips makes for less sanding later.

I think you could use you 5" boards if you resaw, plane thin and edge glue on flat surface. Then cover BOTH sides with cloth and epoxy. At that point you'll have a composite panel that you can use like a sheet of plywood.

Tony is right about warping. Wood will expand and contract with changes in humidity unless encapsulated.

The CLC is completely encapsulated in epoxy. The entire exterior and the seams on the inside are glassed. No worries if a little water gets inside and after 5 years and bouncing down numerous rough roads, mine just needs a little refresh of the varnish. Mainly rock chips.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[WendellNV]

Do you think the fiberglass/epoxy would work well over 5” edge glued cedar board/planks?

Since you're only sealing one side, I'd be concerned that the boards would still move with changes in humidity which would cause delamination.

but the extra labor to make the strips seems daunting.

I built a cedar strip canoe. I "gang-ripped" the strips (two at a time, with two blades, set 1/4" apart with washers) on a cheap table saw. It wasn't that big of a deal. It would have taken twice as long with one blade, but still no biggie.

From time to time here, I see folks that are newbies with little or no woodworking experience come up with experimental ideas that end in a camper that doesn't work out. I suggest using proven methods for your first.

Tony

That makes sense. So, bench build the cedar strip exterior and use that assembly to cover the wall framing it?

After reading responses to this post and doing other researched, a canoe build sounds like a good way to get the learning curve out of the way, If I decide to go with a strip plank exterior trailer.

I fully understand that. As I research and progress towards a build, I am leaning more towards a simple, lightweight first build from proven plans that I can basically “cookbook” my way through. I am thinking 4 x 8, which will be small for my ultimate goal of using it for traveling with my wife. A small build will allow me to gain build experience and when done, give me something to use during solo trips.

I have never been afraid of taking on a project that requires new skills, but as I get older, I find “analysis paralysis” can become a problem.

I just need to find a suitable set of plans and “gun it and run it”!

Thanks for the input Tony.

Regards

 

[Tony Latham]

I am thinking 4 x 8, which will be small for my ultimate goal of using it for traveling with my wife.

Grab a tape measure and pull it out. Look at 22". That will be the room for one of you in a 4'-wide. Building a 5'-wide isn't any more difficult.



Tony