aVANger Build

[S. Heisley]

Good idea and nice job!

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

Thanks Sharon!

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

I replaced the rear bump stops with Sumo Springs (blacks) today and drove the van around block. Initial impression is sway is reduced a bit, which is what I was hoping for and it tracks better over bumps. Expansion joints are a little rougher which I can tell as my back cabinets rattle a bit more. I'm glad I didn't go with the next higher firmness (yellows) as I think the ride would be a good bit harsher. So far I give them a meh rating but I need a road-trip to really try them out. Here's an internet photo of yellow Sumo Springs, just to show how they're installed:

Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

I bit the bullet and bought some nice marine flooring for the van. I cut it a little big so I need to go back and do some trimming. But I'll let it sit and go flat before I do as it has a bit of a roll to it from shipping. I broke with canon (gasp!) and didn't use a 3/4" plywood subfloor that I see most van builders use. I didn't use it under the cabinets or in the garage, and just a bed rug initially with the marine flooring over that. It looks great and I can take it out to spray it down every now and then. The floor is a bit spongy but I like it that way, it feels like an anti-fatigue mat.

I have some leftover that will go into all the foot wells and between the seats. My wife thinks she can sew borders on the flooring and that will hopefully keep the edges from fraying.

Bruce

 

[featherliteCT1]

The flooring looks great. I like the fact that you can remove the flooring as needed.

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

I like the fact that you can remove the flooring as needed.

I know right? It's crazy how most van builders glue their floors down and then it's crazy how many videos I've seen about van flooring wearing out.
Bruce

 

[Staryder61]

The flooring looks great. I like the fact that you can remove the flooring as needed.

I agree with featherlite on the flooring.. the easy clean is a major plus.. and binding the edges..
we did the linoleum in the cargo trailer.. then it was used several times to move.. all torn up now.
sure glad I didn't glue it all down.. stapled around the edges was great at that time..
was needing to redo it,, so might look into something like your flooring.. and no more moving in it..

 

[Tom&Shelly]

The floor looks great Bruce!

I broke with canon (gasp!)

I had a great-great grandfather who broke with cannon. He was at Gettysburg and the Confederates opened up with theirs...
(true story, if irrelevant)

Tom

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

I had a great-great grandfather who broke with cannon. He was at Gettysburg and the Confederates opened up with theirs...

Ha, you should post that on the Dad jokes thread too.
Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

we did the linoleum in the cargo trailer.. then it was used several times to move.. all torn up now. sure glad I didn't glue it all down.. stapled around the edges was great at that time..
was needing to redo it,, so might look into something like your flooring..

Great minds think alike!
Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

Here are the mats for the slider step and between the seats. My wife does great work! We found a spot on the slider mat for the camper patch I got for Christmas:

Bruce

 

[featherliteCT1]

It just keeps getting better!

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

It just keeps getting better!

I don't think our home builds are ever done.
Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

One of the things I tried to get for the van was dual horns. Ford came back and said it wasn't available with the options we picked. Turns out the bracket is there for dual horns so it's pretty easy to install them. Ha, get out of my way! Here's the video I used on where to get the horns and how to install them:
[youtube]WinkebnDauA[/youtube]
Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

I added electric door magnets to the back of the drawers to hold them shut when driving. Step one is to tap into the engine running connection under the drivers seat. I added a relay that closes when the engine is running and supplies 12v and then de-energizes when the engine is shut off.

Step 2 was snaking the engine run signal wire down the drivers side to the garage and over to the passenger side drawer cabinet. I can easily disconnect the wires if I want to take the garage/cabin divider out. (But as time goes by there are fewer and fewer things that could possibly motivate me to do that . )

I split off a branch back up to the Victron DC-DC charger so I don't have to use the firmware engine detection feature, which doesn't play that well with the smart alternator (IMHO).

Tested the wires where they terminate on a connector block by the drawers and it shows 12V when the engine is running. Note the 12.5V on idle, this is why I ran the engine running signal to the Victron DC-DC too.

I made some nylon sleeves to hold the pin locks open that were keeping the drawers closed rather than taking them out. I can take the sleeves off and use them in a pinch if a drawer flies open while driving.

And finally I labeled everything since future Bruce is getting more and more forgetful.

Step 3 - the mag locks are installed and the drawers lock when the engine is running. Boy, was this a lot more work than I thought it would be. The clearances required between the magnet and the armature to ensure the magnet engages reliably are brutal and unforgiving. The mounting hardware that comes with the magnet doesn't have any adjustments, it's one shot and done. In retrospect I should have milled some slots in the mounting brackets for tweaking the magnet position.

The instructions show sliding guide pins and a rubber washer on the mounting bolt for the armature. I bolted the armature directly to the drawer back; I didn't want it moving in relation to the magnet. The small hole in the armature is for the spring mounted button that would push it off the magnet when de-energized (I took them out):

The magnets are attached to the wood cross members for the drawers and I had to add some bracing to them. I initially had some wiggle in the mounts and the magnet would be pulled out of position when the lock engaged.

Obviously you'll need some room behind your drawers if you want to add mag locks. I had a fair amount but I'll still have to take the counter top off if future Bruce needs to tweak anything. I'm going to drive around before I put it back on, just to verify things don't move with van flex. I'll probably add another screw to the magnet mounts once I'm satisfied everything works.

Conclusion

1. Make sure you use a mount for the magnet that is fairly stout. Any kind of play in the magnet means it won't engage reliably. Past Bruce didn't know future Bruce was going to use part of the drawer supports for a magnet and present Bruce had to reinforce things.
2. There is a spring loaded button on the armature that I think is for pushing it off the magnet when it's de-energized. I took it off as it increased the distant between the armature and the magnet just enough to make it unreliable.
3. There is a little bit of residual magnetism when the magnet turns off that makes the drawer stick closed just a little bit. So far it's not a big deal and might help keep the drawer closed if you park on a slope and turn the engine off.
4. I think self closing drawer slides are a must. They repeatably close the drawers up against the magnet.

Would I do it again knowing what I know now? I guess it depends on how it holds up over time but so far I doubt it. It's a persnickety PITA to get it installed correctly and I have my doubts that everything will stay aligned. The consequences of a drawer sliding out when driving probably outweigh the convenience of mag locks. But if it works over the long term it will be awesome!
Bruce

 

[featherliteCT1]

Looks like a tidy and professional install. Your attention to detail is impressive.

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

Thanks! BTW, the magnets are working great so far. It's so nice to just open the drawers rather than give them a tug and think "WTF? Oh yeah, unlock the drawer Einstein".

Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

The last time I filled the water tank I got a strong flavor of hose water despite using an inline filter on the hose. So I added an under-counter filter for drinking water. I took out a sprayer and mixer meant for showers and replaced the sprayer with the new water faucet:

The filter hides away nicely under the sink:

I can still use the sprayer; I realized I could unscrew the main faucet and screw the sprayer on to it. I ordered a counter plug for the deleted mixing valve hole so the counter doesn't look so unfinished. It was a typical plumbing job with 3 trips to the hardware store but, no more hose water taste....

Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

I told myself never again when I installed the roof vent; cutting big holes in the roof is just too upsetting. So of course I cut another one! I finally committed to an A/C approach and it involves adding another roof vent under the PV panels. I use the existing roof vent everyday in the summer to keep the van interior from getting so hot (which helps with battery life) so just deleting it for an A/C was a not an option. First step was to flip one of the PV panels out of the way and laying out the location for the new Lemans fan. I drilled through center of the circle so I knew where to cut the interior ceiling:

Then it was time for the most stressful part of any build, cutting a big honking hole in the roof. I cut a jig saw blade short enough that it just cut through the metal of the roof. As a surprise bonus it also cut though the scrim of the thinsulate insulation very nicely as well.

Here's the cut for the interior ceiling laid out:

Next it was time to attach the fan mount to the roof. I bought the fan with mounting adapters to fit the contour of van roof. It took me two days to get the adapters adhered to the roof with Silkaflex 221 as it has a 24 hour drying time.

After four days of stressing about cutting holes, the fan is finally installed (and it fits under the PV panel):

The fan motor is attached to the ventilator cap and I think I can change the motor out from the inside without taking the PV panel off.

Last step it to install the interior cover. There is a wax motor that slowly opens the louvers when you turn the fan on, pretty spiffy.

The new fan is definitely louder than the Fantastic fan and it doesn't move nearly as much air but I think it will work to keep air moving through the van in the summer. Final step is to wire it to the Victron Cerbo GX user programmable relay so it turns on and off with temperature.
Bruce

 

[bdosborn-SMB]

We just got back from a trip to 100F Nebraska and here's what I've noticed about the fan:

• The wind coming in while driving doesn't seem to be a problem. My ears didn't pop so no pressure changes.
• I did try running it while we were driving and it just sucks all the front A/C air out.
• The louvers rattle like an old metal bedspring when driving. I need to come up with some sort of sports bra for it.
• It's way louder than the Fantastik fan. I think the bearings are kinda tight to keep the fan from over spinning while driving and that makes it noisy.
• It moves about 1/4 the air as the Fantastic fan but it's enough to keep the temps down to 5 degrees over ambient while parked in the driveway.

Bruce