Hoping there is a resident expert. I have a PowMr 100 AH LiFePO4 12.8V nominal house battery.
I haven't used the camper for a while, and I was vexed to find the battery won't take a charge. Shows 13 volts at the terminals, until I switch the isolator and connect it to the Renogy charge controller. Then measurable volts drop to next to nothing. After trying all the "reactivate the BMS" tricks that the internet has to offer, including the reactivate function in the Renogy Rover P+ controller, I still can't extract usable power.
Won't take any amps, won't give up any amps.
So I applied some "brute force and ignorance" (as a mate of mine used to refer to all methods involving hammers and sharp objects) and opened the case. Very standard looking arrangement inside. No bulging cells, doesn't smell like the magic smoke has escaped, all 4 cells measure the same voltage (3.32), nothing springs out.
So, my feel is the jbd-zpo4s016-t-s V1.2 BMS is cactus. I think it is defunct, an ex parrot (IYKYK) you might say.
Replacement looks straight forward, but it will take a while for a part to arrive. I may not be able to find the exact part number, but something must be available, surely.
I don't want to buy a new battery, having just spent an enormous amount of money on another hobby, if I can repair this one later. I also look like being up for a new laptop, I'm typing this on an old clunker while I wait for the diet soda to evaporate in my "good" laptop. It's looking like it, too, is cactus. So funds are less fluid than usual.
I have an overnight trip planned for the weekend.
I generally use 12 - 15 AH overnight, so I can do without charging the battery.
Is it safe enough to bypass the BMS and come straight off the cells if I'm only going to use 15%, and won't be deep discharging it nor risking overcharging?
Secondly, are there any recommendations on what specs to look for in a replacement BMS?
Hoping someone can help.
I haven't used the camper for a while, and I was vexed to find the battery won't take a charge. Shows 13 volts at the terminals, until I switch the isolator and connect it to the Renogy charge controller. Then measurable volts drop to next to nothing. After trying all the "reactivate the BMS" tricks that the internet has to offer, including the reactivate function in the Renogy Rover P+ controller, I still can't extract usable power.
Won't take any amps, won't give up any amps.
So I applied some "brute force and ignorance" (as a mate of mine used to refer to all methods involving hammers and sharp objects) and opened the case. Very standard looking arrangement inside. No bulging cells, doesn't smell like the magic smoke has escaped, all 4 cells measure the same voltage (3.32), nothing springs out.
So, my feel is the jbd-zpo4s016-t-s V1.2 BMS is cactus. I think it is defunct, an ex parrot (IYKYK) you might say.
Replacement looks straight forward, but it will take a while for a part to arrive. I may not be able to find the exact part number, but something must be available, surely.
I don't want to buy a new battery, having just spent an enormous amount of money on another hobby, if I can repair this one later. I also look like being up for a new laptop, I'm typing this on an old clunker while I wait for the diet soda to evaporate in my "good" laptop. It's looking like it, too, is cactus. So funds are less fluid than usual.
I have an overnight trip planned for the weekend.
I generally use 12 - 15 AH overnight, so I can do without charging the battery.
Is it safe enough to bypass the BMS and come straight off the cells if I'm only going to use 15%, and won't be deep discharging it nor risking overcharging?
Secondly, are there any recommendations on what specs to look for in a replacement BMS?
Hoping someone can help.

