Coachmen Clipper Express 9.0TD V-PKG

[PCO6]

I have the non V-PKG edition and so far so good. The V-PKG model is Coachmen's off road model of what I have. I plan to make some modifications to make it a bit more off road usable. I think both models are a good platform for customizing for your specific use.

 

[PCO6]

 

[Cathy P.]

Our local dealer had 2 of these except in the Viking brand which is basically the same, and they immediately sold. Usually nothing sells that fast here.

 

[PCO6]

Cathy - That's good to hear. It's a new model for this year and maybe it's early yet but I'm having trouble finding other owners. I was starting to worry that no one else wants one! lol

 

[BigGoofyGuy]

Is this the site? http://www.coachmenrv.com/camping-trailers/clipper
http://www.coachmenrv.com/camping-trailers/viking

 

[PCO6]

Goofy - That's Coachmen's website. It provides specs and photos for the Clipper Express 9.0td ( http://www.coachmenrv.com/camping-trail ... 9.0TD/4503 ) but has nothing on the off road version, the V-PKG, other than the video link I provided above. The added features are "nice" but, apart from the larger tires, I don't see how they make it any more off roadable.

The basic frame is not bad - 2" x 3.5" rectangular tube side rails and tongue - but all of the cross members are "C" channel. I've stiffened up the 2 rear rails by adding square tubing, angle iron, a few angle braces and a 2" rear receiver tube. I'll be adding a bit more when I replace the 2,000 lb. axle with a 3,500 lb. axle. I don't know if the frame for the V-PKG has any improvements vs. the standard model.

 

[bigbadbarty]

We just picked up our 2020 Clipper Express 9.0 TD last Saturday. Loving it so far. I do have a question about the converter. Do you use the converter to charge and maintain your battery? I plugged the trailer in when we got home and the battery is holding at 13.68 volts, I'm just hoping the converter/charger is smart enough to not boil the battery.

 

[PCO6]

It's nice to meet another owner! There aren't many of us yet as these are new for this year.

I have maintained my battery by simply plugging it into my house power. I am sure there's no risk of cooking the battery. I also charge mine with my my tow vehicle(s) while driving. I also have a 100W solar panel and will be adding it to the roof. I'll be able to dismount it so I can "follow the sun" while camping.

I am new to converters but I understand they are commonly used in RV's. I am much more familiar with inverters. I am thinking of adding one but want to make sure I don't screw anything up (i.e. - the battery) with an additional electrical system. BTW - I replaced the battery that came with the trailer with a Group 27 deep cycle battery.

It's a bit frustrating that these don't come with a wiring diagram. I am slowly making my own. No doubt you found a lot of loose, "un-loomed" wiring under yours. I have started to put it in to proper wiring loom. Underneath you can see everything but in the cabin you can't find any wiring. I "assume" the converter is hidden behind the breaker/fuse box … which you have to get on to your hands and knees to read.

I've started to modify mine and will start a thread as soon as I make a bit more progress. So far I've replaced everything on the tongue and added a box, stiffened up the rear of the frame and added a 2" receiver as well as done some minor things in the interior. I making a roof / kayak rack and should have that done in a week or so. I'll be swapping out the axle for a 3,500 lb. one plus adding 15" wheels & tires. I'll also be adding square fenders and running boards.

I used mine for the first time this past weekend and everything went well. It went down to about 45* on one night and it was so warm inside that I didn't even bother with the heater.

Here are a few pics from this past weekend ... the vintage races at Mosport, Ontario.

… and a few of the mods I've made so far …

The tongue …

And the spare wheel under the tongue …

 

[PCO6]

BTW … I've learned that you can easily put 2 bicycles inside on top of the bed! I put them on top of a 54" x 72" moving blanket. They should stay put but I'll be adding a few latch points.

 

[bigbadbarty]

Dang, you've done a bunch of stuff to your TD already. I like the box on the tongue, moving the battery inside and adding some dry storage is a great idea. It looks like you downsized your propane tank to fit it all across? I really like the idea of the 2 inch receiver on the back, I just don't want to give up the step and neither does my wife. . Do you have some more pics of your tongue setup? I'd like to see how you laid it all out.
It's nice to see another owner for sure. These things are few and far between in Washington.

 

[PCO6]

I didn't see a need for a 20 lb. propane tank so I went with a 5 lb. tank. The water tank on the left side of the trailer is fine for now but I plan to install a larger tank and pump under the frame. When I do that I will add a second 5 lb. propane tank.

Regarding the 2" receiver, It will mainly be for the kayak rack I'm making. The structure underneath also stiffens up the frame. It will have an upright "T" bar to support 2 kayaks. The original rear steps still fit but I thought I'd go with a collapseable plastic stool to save a bit of weight. I can also move it around to assist with strapping down the kayaks.

Here are some more pics of the tongue area ...

I have the same box on my other trailer. It has a 2,000W inverter and I'm thinking of adding one to this trailer too.

Here is a link to my other trailer build … http://www.jeepcentral.ca/forums/showth ... iler-Build

 

[bigbadbarty]

Nice work. That Jeep project trailer is crazy. Your metal work and finishes are done very well. If you put that effort into the Clipper, you're really going to have a show stopper at the camp sites. I'm not sure if we want to give up the 20lb propane until we run the furnace a night or two and see just how much it burns. I was also thinking about upgrading to a group 27 battery but again, I think I'm going to give it few trips and see how fast we burn through power if at all. I think my first update is going to be swapping out the speakers for something decent and maybe hooking up the "B" side of the stereo to some outdoor speakers.
Keep on posting pics as you go, I'd like to follow your work.

 

[gudmund-TNT]

compromise - there is 'the' in between tank size = 2.5 gallon tank. Two different versions available out there - Manchester makes a squatty one, same diameter as a 5 gallon at half the height or the 'same' height as a 5 gallon that is about a inch larger in diameter as the 1 gallon. Cost wise = either is about the same, about twice the cost of a 5 gallon (1 gal, 2.5 gal = about $60+ each) Suggestion, when looking at tanks, always check "the" build date on the handle and buy the newest/latest dated one. Tanks have a 'limited' 12 year service life. You want the newest one you can find. (have seen one on a store shelf that was 4 years old - old stock!!)

 

[PCO6]

bigbadbarty - Thanks. I plan to build the Clipper in the same general fashion as my expedition trailer. The problem I have now is that my wife has no interest in camping with that one. She likes the new one! lol

Good point about measuring the propane that the furnace will burn. I don't think (hope) that I'll be using it much and with the second 5 lb. tank added I'm sure it will be more than enough when going on week long trips. As for the air conditioner … I'll probably be taking it out and using the space for something else. I also like your idea about replacing the interior speakers (they're not very good) and adding ones to the outside.

 

[PCO6]

gudmund - Good point about checking the dates on the handles, especially with the less popular size tanks … that usually cost more. I don't buy tanks often but I always check that. I also like to have MY tank filled vs. getting an exchange tank for basically the same reason. Another thing to check is how the handle was welded on. I have one that I didn't realize is a bit crooked. It works fine but visually it drives me nuts.

 

[bigbadbarty]

PCO6 - I get it, all that work and effort to craft something awesome and she prefers the off the shelf trailer. Brutal, but I get it.
Yeah, the audio is terrible. I'll have to do my research and find the best speakers for the application. The mounting depth is very shallow so the upgrade may not have a tremendous amount of impact. The big impact is having audio outside. I had a 1976 Jaco Jay Cardinal that I did audio in. I had a pair of speakers inside, similar to the Clipper but I added a pair of Kenwood 6x9 in carpeted boxes that I stored in the cargo area. I had them on 20 feet of speaker wire so I could either open the cargo area and point them out or pull them way out and aim them. The best part was with them playing while locked up in the storage area they added a ton of bass to the interior. I'd have to fade them to the interior speakers only at night to be sure not disturb other sites.
Back to the Clipper. I added magnetic door hold opens. One for the storage pass through and one on the entry door. What a difference.

 

[PCO6]

Great idea on the magnets. I was looking at some 2 piece clips but those are a lot cleaner looking and would probably hold up better. Do you have a link for the ones that you used?

They look to be about the same size as the rubber stops that are used to retain the interior rail that holds up the rear of the tent. The rail sailed right past mine and dropped on to the top of the thermostat. I had to replace the thermostat. I replaced the stops with larger rubber ones and there's no way the rail can get by them now. Here's what I used … https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/ ... -p8510331e

 

[bigbadbarty]

I'm not sure why Coachmen used those little stops with a downward angle on them? They're just asking for what happened to you. A flat top like you used makes more sense.

I was looking for magnetic hold opens when I found these. I originally only saw white but kept searching and ran across the black ones. Glad I did, they look like they came on the trailer. I especially like the one on the cargo area. It keeps the latches from hitting the window when opened. I ended up buying them from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6 ... UTF8&psc=1

Price is pretty steep I know. I thought about buying some magnets, platicoating them and using some 3M body molding tape to stick them on. Then I figured by the time I bought them and bought the can of plasticoat I'd probably be at the same cost. It's crazy what RV parts cost. Like the 5lb propane tank vs. a 20lb. Why would a tank 1/4 the size cost twice as much?

I was looking at the Torklift battery box for the tongue. My plan is to use it for one battery and put wheel chocks and stuff in the other half. They are just crazy expensive. Guess I'll keep looking.

 

[PCO6]

Thanks for the link for the magnets. You're right, they look correct for the trailer. I like that they have adhesive backs and don't require drilling. I'm not opposed to that but the less holes the better … especially when you're not sure of where the wiring harness is!

Up here a 5 lb. propane tank costs $3 more than a 20 lb. tank. It seems crazy but I'm sure it has to do with the numbers that are made and sold. I'm probably way off but I wouldn't be surprised if there are 500 large tanks for every one small tank.

I used a Larin storage box for mine … https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/lari ... 2087p.html . They're not cheap either but they go on sale for 25% off fairly often. This is the second one I bought at $150 CDN. That would be about $110 US. Both have sat and been driven in the rain and I haven't had any leaks. They're a good quality box but lock isn't the greatest. I'll be replacing it with a security type lock (round key).

 

[bigbadbarty]

After spending 5 days camping at the beach over the 4th of July holiday, I realized the trailer needed a couple of upgrades. Yesterday I swapped out the speakers. Because of the shallow depth of the wall, I had to use spacers. They are in at an angle because the factory speakers are mounted at a 45 degree angle or so. They did that so 2 of the screws would hit the 1x wood in the wall and not just attach to the fiberboard. That little swap made a huge difference. Whizzer cones just don't compare to a coaxial.