Coachmen Clipper Express 9.0TD V-PKG

[bigbadbarty]

I also added a 12 volt charging station to the passenger side of the headboard. The factory location of the USB ports couldn't be worse. If you lift the bed for storage you hit the usb cables in the charger, plus at night your sheets or feet end up hitting the cables. It was only a matter of time before either the port or a cable end was going to break. Beside that, who wants to charge their phone at the foot of their bed? So, I added a charging station that has a dual USB/volt meter at the bottom, a 12 volt CLA port (I put a dual usb plug in it) in the middle and an on/off switch up top. I also added a couple of mesh pockets above the windows. The cable run was a little wonky because I wanted to drill as few holes as possible. I'm waiting on zip tie anchors to finished holding the wiring in place, you can see the run in the speaker pictures. The entire run goes through nylon finger cuff loom. I ran from the headboard down the the bed platform, into the under bed storage, then into the passenger side cabinet where I tapped into the existing 12 volt power behind the factory 12 volt power station. Now we have charging for 4 USB devices instead of 2 and a built in volt meter.

 

[PCO6]

Nice job on the speakers and I like how you did the charging station and mesh pockets. I couldn't agree with you more regarding the original location of the charging station. It makes no sense. I was thinking of adding one in the vicinity of the radio and another one on the outside likely in the utility box. I have 2,000W inverter for it and that has the necessary ports. At the head board makes good sense though.

Another thing that doesn't make sense is that the switch for the lights over the bed are on the passenger side of the trailer. It should be in the middle. One more thing that I plan to change.

 

[PCO6]

We were away last week too. It was the first time both of us slept in it and we found it to be very comfortable. Each day was hot and sunny but it absolutely poured on 2 of the nights. No leaks so we were happy about that!

I finished making a kayak rack before we left. The front looks like and acts as a regular roof rack. I will take the trailer on "non-kayak" trips and I doubt I will ever need it for storage. It supports the bows of the kayaks and holds a water proof bag. We keep our kayak seats, PFD's and assorted kayak things in there. it's mounted permanently to the trailer. The factory rack on the V-PKG model appears to sit on top of the trailer and it is presumably fastened through the top. I doubt it's a leak risk but I decided to attach my rack to the side walls. I think it's stronger this way too.

The back is a basic 2 piece t-bar. The vertical piece goes in to a 2" hitch receiver I made and the horizontal piece fits it to it at the top. Both pieces and the hitch insert come off in about 2 minutes. The whole thing is rock solid. I secure the kayaks with ratchet straps. I can't see the kayaks in the rear view mirror and I hardly know they are there where travelling.

BTW ... we stored 2 adult size bikes inside on top of the bed and it worked great. We simply walked them in through the back door and put them on top of a moving blanket.

 

[bigbadbarty]

Do you have pictures how you welded the hitch? I’m thinking about adding a 1.25x1.25 hitch and lowering the step just enough to clear it. Curious how you attached yours to the flimsy frame.

 

[PCO6]

Apart from wanting to add a hitch for the rear T-bar for my kayak rack, my goal was to stiffen up the rear of my frame. I plan to stiffen the entire frame but this is where I started. It's mainly 3 pieces that are bolted together and then bolted to the frame.

I started by welding a 1/8" plate that I cut to a 2" receiver tube that is 18" long. I also cut, bent and welded what looks like a "chain" strap out of 1" x 0.25" steel and welded it to the receiver tube. The other 2 pieces are angle iron and square tube.

Pic 1 shows the 3 components which are ...
- a 2.5" x 2.5" x 1/4" length of angle iron that bolts to the back side of the Clipper frame (back bumper)
- the 2" receiver tube referred to above
- a 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" square tube that bolts to the C-channel that is next closest to the rear bumper.
I'll be adding angle brackets to attach the cross bars to the side rails of the frame. This will further stiffen things up.

Pics 2 & 3 show everything bolted in place. The 2 side by side bolts on the bottom of the receiver tube are anti-rattle bolts for the kayak rack T-bar. Note also that I've started to hide all of the wiring in corrugated loom. As you know, the wiring is a bit of a mess on these things … and many other trailers when they come from the factory.

Pic 4 shows the rear "bumper". The angle iron is attached with 1/2" eye bolts. I've since added a bolt in the centre. I use the eye bolts to latch down the kayaks. The "chain" strap is simply to bolt the rear of the receiver tube to the angle iron. There's obviously no need for safety chains on the rear of a trailer. It does provide another latch point though.

You'll be happy to know that I can still bolt the original rear step assembly to the rear bumper without modifying it. I took it off though to save a bit of weight. We just use a small folding plastic step that I picked up at Walmart.

I hope this helps!

 

[bigbadbarty]

Thanks for the pics. That may be a springtime project for me. My next projects are a mount for my new 5lb propane tank and wiring up a solar charge controller.

 

[PCO6]

Thanks for the pics. That may be a springtime project for me. My next projects are a mount for my new 5lb propane tank and wiring up a solar charge controller.

It's been a while since I last posted in this thread. I'm in the process of installing a solar controller too. As you know these trailers come "solar ready". There's a solar input port on the right front side of the trailer but as far as I can tell there's no controller between it and the battery. it may be part of the converter but I don't think so. I don't know if trailers like this come with a wiring diagram but Clippers do not. Fortunately it's not that confusing once you sift through the sloppy wiring. I'm slowly putting my own diagram together that will include the modifications I've made.

Anyway, I'm simplifying things by bypassing what is there and going straight from my 100W solar panel to the battery with a new controller in between.

 

[Mike 1953]

I just bought a 2020 Viking 9.0TD V-Pkg. Mine has not been delivered yet. Will pickup in April. I took a look at last years showroom model and was surprised at all the wires and connections just hanging under the trailer. This is bad news. I will be doing a lot off wilderness camping. What did you do to protect the wires?

 

[PCO6]

I just bought a 2020 Viking 9.0TD V-Pkg. Mine has not been delivered yet. Will pickup in April. I took a look at last years showroom model and was surprised at all the wires and connections just hanging under the trailer. This is bad news. I will be doing a lot off wilderness camping. What did you do to protect the wires?

Mike - Congratulations on your purchase. I picked up mine last April and overall I've been very happy with it. The V-Pkg. wasn't available then. I think it came out about a month or so after I got mine. I have or am doing a few things that will align with the V-Pkg. features, so far 235/75/15 AT tires with Jeep wheels and an on demand hot water system. I also added square fenders that I had coated at Line-x.

I'm still working on the wiring. The good news is that I had no problem with any of it on my 2019 camping trips. I'm slowly putting a wiring diagram together which of course it didn't come with. Underneath I have put some of the wiring in corrugated loom. I will be modifying and adding to it and some of it will be going into either PVC or PEX conduit. I have little use for the AC power and have removed the fridge and air conditioner. I want to rely more on 12V and solar power. If you remove the above 2 items you will see even MORE crazy wiring. It freed up a LOT of room for added storage and other modifications to the whole rear of the trailer.

Here are a few random shots that might help with understanding the interior wiring and a few other things. I'm sure things will make more sense when they are completed.

Have fun with yours!

Stew

AC unit removed, storage added, new cabinet doors going on ...

A lot of this is coming out or being tightened up ...

New radio panel with switches and charge centre being added. Also recessed like the V-Pkg. ...

Furnace will stay ...

Shore power line has been removed and new exterior plug being added. water pump will go where cable was. Radio panel on far side now mostly finished ...

Water heater will come out and be mounted to side of trailer when needed. This is now a pass through door that I can access from the inside & out ...

AC vent filled in ...

 

[Mike 1953]

I like the way that you are doing your reno. I'll be making changes after I see what is needed. Did you undercoat the plywood? How about the frame? I was not impressed with the contacts for the electric brakes. I know there is a grease that can be used on contacts. I had visions of the brakes locking up. Are you using the brakes? If so what controller did you use. I was thinking about putting in a waterproof exterior plastic junction box were the wires come together. I only had a quick look at the one in the showroom. Thoughts?

 

[PCO6]

Thanks. I have a lot more changes planned and will probably make a dedicated thread on it. I need to do a bit more though.

I sprayed Rustoleum Leak Seal over the plywood on the underside. I may brush something on later, maybe Rustoleum's product or FlexSeal. I sprayed the frame with the same product I use on my Jeeps to undercoat them - Krown T-40. I haven't had any problems underneath but I'm certainly keeping my eye on it.

The brakes work fine, no dragging, locking, etc. I had an old controller in one Jeep and the RV dealer put one in my other one. I can't recall the brand (I'll check my records) but they said it's the one they use on all of their installations ($85 or so). It worked fine and is easy to adjust as needed.

I smeared dilectric grease on a lot of contact points. I will also be adding a few junction boxes to the system to keep things organized and protected. Generally speaking I'll be covering all wiring, in and out, as I go. Next step is to set up the solar system. I have a 100W panel that will travel on the lid and be lifted off so I can follow the sun when camping. I'm trying to avoid having to replace the lid gas struts to compensate for the extra 25 lb. panel.

Hopefully you can add yours to this thread when you get it!

 

[Mike 1953]

I see there is a battery on the tongue. Was told that is an AGM, any idea what group. I have a AGM group group 27. It's holding a charge at 12.66v. Thought of putting it in the door beside the a/c and connecting it to the tongue battery.

 

[PCO6]

The battery that came on the tongue of mine was a basic Group 24 car battery. It now sits in the tongue box of the trailer in my signature below. I put a Group 27 deep non AGM cycle battery in my Clipper. I'm thinking of adding a second one in the box now that the fridge and AC are gone and I have a bit of space to store some of the things that are in the tongue box.

 

[Mike 1953]

Have you done any winter camping.

 

[PCO6]

I haven't winter camped in a LONG time so no as far as my Clipper goes. I hope to get out in April for 2 or 3 days which can be cool and will not likely involve snow … it could though. I've only used the heater once and that was in late September, so not that cold here. We just fired it up to warm the trailer and then it off for the night. It worked great. I want to give it a good test at home this month or next just to see how it goes.

Also, I checked on the brand of brake controller that the RV dealership installed and it is a TEKONSHA. It has worked well.

 

[Mike 1953]

A number of years ago my girlfriend and I did 2,500km of crown land camping. Check out this site to find Crown land https://freecampsites.net/#!103805&query=sitedetails . The furnace is a bit of over kill. I drive a 2019 Ram 1500. I plan on putting 20lb propane tanks in milk crates and securing them to the plywood floor in the truck bed. This furnace will use a lot of propane. However due the trailer being so small I would probably keep the thermostat to a comfortable 50 degrees F. Body heat alone will help a lot. I usually pan for gold where ever I go. I'm the type of guy who can't just sit around and do nothing. I have a 1200 watt Champion generator. I built a sound box to cut down the decibel level. Going to do a sound check today and will post detailed photos and info a little later.

 

[PCO6]

Crown Land is a no go for my relatively new to camping wife. The closest I get is to setting up a base camp of sorts in a Provincial Park and heading out to explore on day trips from there. The link you provided is a good resource. I tend to use Back Roads Map Books and similar maps for planning purposes.

Are you in Ontario? Camping from April to October (November?) isn't going to get all that cold. I really don't see that we're going to need the Clipper furnace all that much. My wife might disagree. As shown above, I downsized from a 20 lb. tank to a 5 lb. Cooking for a week hasn't come close to using that up. With the water heater going in, I will be adding a 2nd 5 lb. tank on the tongue (the blue water tank is coming off). I have a 3rd 5 lb. tank that I carry in a plastic pail of sorts when I need it without the trailer. I could carry it with the trailer if needed, but I doubt I will.

The dealer we bought our Clipper at (Globetrotter RV, just north of Orangeville) said they've sold quite a few of them but I've yet to see one anywhere but on their lot. I'll be at the Toronto Camping and RV show next weekend and I'm hoping they will have a V-Pkg. trailer like yours there. I want to steal ideas! lol As you probably know, there isn't very much on line either other that dealer advertisements. As for modified Clippers, well … I'm looking forward to seeing what you and hopefully others come up with!

 

[BURNSIDE468]

We too bought the 9.0TD V-PKG last fall and have enjoyed it. Stepped back down from a TT to get back to the type of camping we enjoy. Never understood the A/C fridge in an "off road package" so took that out and built a locking/sliding shelf for an Alpicool DC fridge, it has worked well. We are in the south and just can't bring myself to take out the AC even though we don't really camp in the heat.

My biggest complaints are related to the door handle, I am constantly catching that screen door type handle on my pants and/or jacket exiting the trailer. Ripped it completely off one trip, they replaced for free.

Also, I am going to look at replacing the sink with a flipped down faucet version since it always seems to get turned on when you are lowering the top unless you secure the faucet. Am I the only one?

What is everyone using for an awning setup? I keep looking at the Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarp thinking that might be a good solution.

Looking forward to some 9.0TD conversation.

 

[PCO6]

BURNSIDE - Regarding awnings, we just use a 10'x10' pop up canopy for ours. I've seen some where they do they same and put off the back side. I have a Smittybilt 6'x9' canopy that's designed to attach to a vehicle roof rack or something similar but, as you know, with roof angle of these you'd have to come up with alternate way. I like the extra space of the canopy anyway. I don't like the set up that Coachmen offers for these.

We haven't had any problems with our door handle. Ours is an early model and the door swings open to the passenger's side. I've seen some later models and it swings to the driver's side. I have no idea why they did that.

 

[BURNSIDE468]

Our dealer was kind enough to throw in the Coachmen canopy, but it is useless, it will not be traveling with us. Too difficult to setup and not very much coverage. I may see about taking advantage of the built in zipper on the top and fabricate something to cover the door entrance. A free standing canopy does make sense for the rest of it. I also want to attach something to the hardside door and velcro the fabric door section to it so it opens as one unit. I ordered a couple of those connectors (the one that attaches the short metal rod to the canopy support and bent a piece of conduit so we now have a place to hang jackets and things. Every time we go out camping there always seems to be a new idea pop up.