Featherdrop - An Over-Engineered Teardrop

I built a "rag and tube" aircraft decades ago. It was covered with aircraft grade dacron. It was finished with nitrate dope, and then silvered butyrate (because of the UV problem) and finally butyrate paint. It took a roll of duct tape to get home after a bad hail storm in Pierre, South Dakota ––but N716TL is still flying even though I don't own it.

They quit using cotton for aircraft in the late fifties. You can buy aircraft (shrinkable) dacron from Aircraft Spruce along with the dope and powdered aluminum. There should be plenty of Youtubes on how to apply it.

Andrew is spot on with the rock chips.

Tony
 
tony.latham":2m1p23ub said:
I built a "rag and tube" aircraft decades ago. It was covered with aircraft grade dacron. It was finished with nitrate dope, and then silvered butyrate (because of the UV problem) and finally butyrate paint. It took a roll of duct tape to get home after a bad hail storm in Pierre, South Dakota ––but N716TL is still flying even though I don't own it.

They quit using cotton for aircraft in the late fifties. You can buy aircraft (shrinkable) dacron from Aircraft Spruce along with the dope and powdered aluminum. There should be plenty of Youtubes on how to apply it.

Andrew is spot on with the rock chips.

Tony
If you want a poor man's version of aircraft covering and finishing, try to find information on Fisher Aircraft. They are a low cost kit aircraft company. I dont know for sure if they are still around.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Andrew Herrick":2v004qfu said:
It's obvious you're putting a great deal of thought and care into your project. As I said, I'm no aircraft guru, and the unsupported PMF might do just fine. If worse comes to worst, you could always renovate your camper later. Or you could do it for $50 and an afternoon's work the first time :p

You're right, I should just do it properly the first time. I'll put 1/2" foam in the spaces.
 
timm":37deqwk7 said:
It has an 18" stroke and since PVC has such a high pressure rating (around 1200 psi for 1 1/4" schedule 40) I can basically lift as much as weight as the seals can take without leaking like crazy.

Very nice looking design :thumbsup:

I would double check your spec on PVC psi rating vs bursting pressure though.
burst pressure.JPG

If that isn't enough look at this one, its not rated for compressed air at all.
https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/resou ... essed-air/
 
There are many people using PVC in home garages for air compressors. Its not something I would use. For low PSI compressors it will work. For what he is planning on his trailer it would work. The problem I see is multi air cylinders in different mounting positions on one control valve. Trying to get four air cylinders balanced to lift at the same rate will be hard. Keeping them balanced when they start to age will be harder than the first setup.
 
I was looking to run PVC air lines in the garage so didi some looking online. First click was a guy that was working in his garage and without notice his air line exploded. He had photos and X-rays from the ER of his posterior neck with a 8" shard of PVC stuck in it.

I'm not using PVC for air.

Todd
 
KTM_Guy":3s1i6jm5 said:
I was looking to run PVC air lines in the garage so didi some looking online. First click was a guy that was working in his garage and without notice his air line exploded. He had photos and X-rays from the ER of his posterior neck with a 8" shard of PVC stuck in it.

I'm not using PVC for air.

Todd

Do you know if it was cellular/foam core PVC or solid core PVC pipe?
 
Andrew Herrick":37dx0t5k said:
KTM_Guy":37dx0t5k said:
I was looking to run PVC air lines in the garage so didi some looking online. First click was a guy that was working in his garage and without notice his air line exploded. He had photos and X-rays from the ER of his posterior neck with a 8" shard of PVC stuck in it.

I'm not using PVC for air.

Todd

Do you know if it was cellular/foam core PVC or solid core PVC pipe?

Don’t recall. But was pointed out was when pvc fails it’s not a slow thing that you’ll notice. It’s a catastrophic failure with no notice.

Todd
 
Don’t recall. But was pointed out was when pvc fails it’s not a slow thing that you’ll notice. It’s a catastrophic failure with no notice.

Todd

I have worked in a shop with PVC air lines. This shop only had 120 PSI. There is no warning when its going to blow apart. If your lucky it blows when your not close. Most times when it fails is where you have an air fitting installed. Most of the time your hand is on the air fitting plugging in a air hose.

My shop runs 175 PSI. I ran 3/4 copper for my air system.
 
Question: will the dope affect any insulation material?

Question: what is the source of the compressed air? How is it replenished in the field? Do you need a backup mechanism/plan if say one cylinder fails/leaks?
 
I wasn't planning on using PVC as the supply lines, I was thinking pneumatic tubing would handle the vibrations and stresses of being on a trailer. The PVC would only be used as the cylinders, which should lift the roof with only about 30 PSI. I can also enclose the cylinders with plywood pretty easily if I need to run more pressure in the cylinders.

I'm thinking the air supply would be a small 12v compressor running off the car battery in the trailer. I'm not too concerned with the extension time as the pressure is pretty low and the volume being pressurized is relatively small. I can build a fifth cylinder and bring it along in case one fails.

If I can't get the roof to extend properly I might have to add a threaded rod system to help everything extend together or completely switch over to threaded rods. I think that potential risk is worth the simplicity of the pneumatic system.

I won't be using actual aircraft dope, I'll be using regular exterior paint so the foam should be fine.
 
google SOF kayaks. They are made with Nylon fabric on a rib and spar type of frame. the Nylon is adhered/waterproofed with a flexible epoxy. It's super strong and lightweight.

David
 
I'll add my insight to your thoughtful design. The reason people are advising against multiple cylinder air actuation is because it has been tried by others... and failed.

There were several times during my build... which is still not finished... where I chose not to take the advice of more experienced builders, and later came to learn that if had taken their advice I would be further ahead with a better result.

If you are set on air, I would suggest a single cylinder operating pull "cables" made of light weight 550 paracord over a nylon pulley system, configured like a traditional pop-up.

IIRC, the issue with PVC is that the pressure ratings are misleading. It doesn't like to be pressure cycled. So in a shop air environment where you are shutting down the compressor (or at least isolating the distribution system) every day, it can lead to problems. Same for a dynamic cylinder with pressure cycles. Maybe not such a problem for low pressures, but the concern is well documented. IMO, PVC should be reserved for low pressure drains and, perhaps, electrical conduit (CPVC).

Another concern is that the OEM's control the OD very closely for compatibility with the fittings, but there is a wider tolerance on the ID. Have you checked any samples for circularity on the ID? Rather than 'o'-rings, cup seals might be a better choice.

I'm not sure if I interpreted your plan correctly, but it almost sounded like you were planning to skin the "skeleton" areas and only paint the foam. If so, the foam is quite fragile and would quickly deteriorate. Plan on pmf'g the foam, too, or better yet use epoxy/glass weave. Two plys of 6 oz cloth saturated with epoxy provides a substantial amount of armor, does stay relatively flexible (contrary to common mis-belief) and, surprisingly, weighs virtually the same as 10 oz canvas pmf.

One last observation, I am concerned with the proximity of the peak of you splitter fin to the trunk lid on your TV. This gap will close when transitioning onto an up slope or off of a down slope (approach and departure angles). Yes, foam is fragile and somewhat compressible, but can sustain significant pressures over larger areas (IIRC the common pink stuff is 25 psi). So while the pointy bit might not do much harm, once it starts to flatten the contact area will increase and it will no longer yield as much. I could see it easily denting a sheet metal panel. Once reinforced with pmf or epoxy/glass it won't yield much at all.
 
One more thing... and I really don't intend this all to be critical, just constructive... is that the way you have your rear shelf and storage arranged doesn't seem very efficient to me. If the hatch could double as the work surface, eliminating the weight and hassle of the portable panel you could save weight and set up effort. Even if you have to make the hatch flat instead of arched, you aren't losing aero.

But regardless, in that configuration the folding strut consumes too much storage space. In the least you would have to move stowed items to deploy. Once set up, as soon as anything is placed on the table surface, access to the stowage would become a hassle.

Perhaps consider a portable folding table to be placed on the ground nearby (packed suspended at top of trunk so it can be deployed w/o having to move other stowed items). That way you can keep the arched trunk, compensate for extra weight of portable table by eliminating separate work surface panel and prop, and avoid having to add side access doors to trunk.
 
Actually I'm still poking away at it... slowly, but that's another topic.

<edit> Oh, yeah, I see what you mean now, Tony. OP vaporized. I've been catching up on my reading and lost track that this was an old post. :?
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top Bottom