Fiberglass cloth brand and resin

23Sojourney45

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I just wanted to get an update on what people used for their fiberglass cloth and resin, never worked with it before. I've read the TNTTT thread: "Best fiberglass to use on wood teardrop?" but that thread is from 2016 (Yes, I'm also going to put UV protecting spar varnish) Does that information still hold up? or does anyone have new updates? Get fiberglass cloth, not chopped? I've read that chopped aren't as strong. I was going to check out home depot but I don't think that they have the size that I'm interested in. I'm working on a 5x8 trailer so it has to be at least 5ft wide, but I don't mind going smaller if there's none. If its 4ft, then I would have to figure out how to add the extra 1ft and make it seem seamless if possible. I will not be putting filon or aluminum on it, keeping the wood look for now. I've seen some video too of people using different fiberglass cloth brands and resin. I've looked at amazon and other sites and its a bit overwhelming, I don't want to choose the "wrong" thing, or is that not possible? I'm aiming for 2 oz walls and maybe 4 oz roof, but basically hovering around 2-4 oz nothing more. I don't want to go the route of PMF even though it may be cheaper. Who knows, I may change my mind if the price goes up and up, lol. Any information is welcomed. Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:
 
The information from 2016 should still be correct. I think I remember that you don't want to use chopped fiberglass with epoxy, but maybe someone else can chime in to confirm or refute?

I've also heard, but can't confirm that fiberglass is actually just about the same price as PMF. I've never used PMF so don't know.

Tom
 
Get fiberglass cloth, not chopped?

Most matt is glued together with a substance designed for polyester resin to dissolve. It's not meant to be used with epoxies and I quit using polyester resin a couple of decades ago. Don't use the stuff for a woody.

I have used a few gallons of Raka epoxy. It's good stuff, and their cloth is too. 6 oz cloth is fine for sealing plywood.

Buy their pumps...

DRJZria.jpg


It's best to do the walls flat.

80SB36Q.jpg


pDcoI7D.jpg


And mix small batches:

https://youtu.be/BJZYGY2he1o?si=fv5AhDI8_onA5cVv

Easy-peasy.

Tony
 
US Composites has about the cheapest epoxy, slightly yellow but fine under paint. I like Raka or MAS for clear finish.

I'd use 6 oz cloth, you could use 4oz but not to save weight. Saving 5 lbs on a 1000 lb trailer isn't worth less strength and durability.
 
Tom&Shelly":2ov222sv said:
The information from 2016 should still be correct. I think I remember that you don't want to use chopped fiberglass with epoxy, but maybe someone else can chime in to confirm or refute?

I've also heard, but can't confirm that fiberglass is actually just about the same price as PMF. I've never used PMF so don't know.

Tom

Thanks Tom, at least its relevant. I may change to PMF, who knows lol :R , but right now I'm going to check out Fiberglass.
 
tony.latham":ljmo3vie said:
Get fiberglass cloth, not chopped?

Most matt is glued together with a substance designed for polyester resin to dissolve. It's not meant to be used with epoxies and I quit using polyester resin a couple of decades ago. Don't use the stuff for a woody.

I have used a few gallons of Raka epoxy. It's good stuff, and their cloth is too. 6 oz cloth is fine for sealing plywood.

Buy their pumps...

DRJZria.jpg


It's best to do the walls flat.

80SB36Q.jpg


pDcoI7D.jpg


And mix small batches:

https://youtu.be/BJZYGY2he1o?si=fv5AhDI8_onA5cVv

Easy-peasy.

Tony

Tony, thanks, I was looking at Raka and Wes and didn't know if there were any other brands out there that people have used. But, for the most part, a lot have used Raka eh? I guess they don't go through Amazon. I will definitely buy the pumps, from what I've seen with the videos and through reading, it does come in super handy. I will remind myself to use small batches. Is there a little bit that is left over in the container after each refill? When do you suggest replacing the container? Again, I don't know if it will start to build up after each refill. In your video, it looks like you were using two cups, is that the key?:thinking:
 
Pmullen503":tunho5dt said:
US Composites has about the cheapest epoxy, slightly yellow but fine under paint. I like Raka or MAS for clear finish.

I'd use 6 oz cloth, you could use 4oz but not to save weight. Saving 5 lbs on a 1000 lb trailer isn't worth less strength and durability.

Pmullen, US Composites? I will have to check them out. I don't mind it turning yellow, if it does what its supposed to do then I don't mind the color, lol. Where do you get your cloth?
 
I've used Thayercraft for cloth, but 6 oz cloth is pretty generic, you can get it anywhere .

You don't need a new mixing cup as long as what's left from the previous batch hasn't started to gel. If that's the case, definitely use a new cup.
 
Pmullen503":mi3insi2 said:
I've used Thayercraft for cloth, but 6 oz cloth is pretty generic, you can get it anywhere .

You don't need a new mixing cup as long as what's left from the previous batch hasn't started to gel. If that's the case, definitely use a new cup.

Thanks Pmullen, will definitely check the batch for gelling. :)
 
Use a new cup for each batch. If you mix a 2nd batch in a "hot" cup the pot life will be shortened by the kick of the previous batch. I like to use clear plastic cups because it is easier to see what's going on inside. When you think you've got everything out of the cup turn it over on a dry spot of cloth and you'll get a little more. Set aside and check that it cured right the next day. If you want to bother you can peel the remainder out of the cup and reuse it, at least for the plastic cups... I just use left over dunkin iced coffee cups cut down to size... but it isn't worth the effort or risk of leaving flaky bits of dry to foul the next batch.
 
KCStudly":1uamszp2 said:
Use a new cup for each batch. If you mix a 2nd batch in a "hot" cup the pot life will be shortened by the kick of the previous batch. I like to use clear plastic cups because it is easier to see what's going on inside. When you think you've got everything out of the cup turn it over on a dry spot of cloth and you'll get a little more. Set aside and check that it cured right the next day. If you want to bother you can peel the remainder out of the cup and reuse it, at least for the plastic cups... I just use left over dunkin iced coffee cups cut down to size... but it isn't worth the effort or risk of leaving flaky bits of dry to foul the next batch.

Thanks KCStudly, I was using plastic cups for my other teardrop essential, lol. I have too many to count, so why not, right? That's a good tip about turning it over, I've seen some videos of people doing that and wondered why. I used the peal and re-use tactic when I was using these cups for titebond, lol. Thanks again. :thumbsup:
 
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if you're going to use fiberglass. Why would you use wood what a waste. you can build a indestructible , insulated trailer. If you drop it of a cliff you go to walmart to fix . Beware of dam liars about ploy resin and home depo foam it is the easy way to build you cannot mess up it like a Lego . Pods run under 200 lbs. for 5 by 5 by 10 there is no better way to build a forever trailer. Family trust owns a few RV repair shops is also involved in heavy ballistic components.
 

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When do you suggest replacing the container?

Each batch gets a new container. You'll want to have a stack of these, new mixing sticks and a fresh box of gloves ready to go. It's important to keep epoxy off your skin so you don't develop an allergy to it. And of course, wear safety glasses. :thumbsup:

Tony
 
saywhatthat":1hkypr2d said:
View attachment 2View attachment 2


if you're going to use fiberglass. Why would you use wood what a waste. you can build a indestructible , insulated trailer. If you drop it of a cliff you go to walmart to fix . Beware of dam liars about ploy resin and home depo foam it is the easy way to build you cannot mess up it like a Lego . Pods run under 200 lbs. for 5 by 5 by 10 there is no better way to build a forever trailer. Family trust owns a few RV repair shops is also involved in heavy ballistic components.

Those look like they'll last forever
 
tony.latham":lnt143b9 said:
When do you suggest replacing the container?

Each batch gets a new container. You'll want to have a stack of these, new mixing sticks and a fresh box of gloves ready to go. It's important to keep epoxy off your skin so you don't develop an allergy to it. And of course, wear safety glasses. :thumbsup:

Tony



Good tip Tony. I was going to wrap the bottom of the wall to the bottom of the trailer (road side) but it was bedliner on it already. I was thinking about fiberglass tape just where the bottom of the wall meets the edge of the underside of the floor, maybe 2 inch into the bedliner but I didn't know if it would work. (Should have thought about it before putting the bedliner weeks ago, but its too late) :worship:
 
Those look like they'll last forever
by using hand laid fiber with mat woven ploy resin . we had what destroyed most trailers cost under $50 and a few hr work on the pod . They get laid in two parts outside skin cold and then inside hot making the panel concaved you won't see it but makes it so inpack doesn't hurt it . You lay up flat on a table so no bending over after panel is done you add fiberglass angle. Then fill with can foam at joints. It's easy to keep clean.If you are going to rent no worries if a dog pees in it ' their no way to mess up in the build You use a $ 14 hardboard as a mold
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