figuring out clearence

[girvin]

My trailer as it is currently planed is 17 ft long from receiver to end. It has 18 inches of clearance to the bottom of the frame. My axel is 50 inches from the rear bumper with 32 in tires. I am trying to decide if I should do a clearance angle on the rear end. they look cool but takes away fridge space if I dont build a fancy door. My tow vehicle is a gx470 with 2in lift and 32 in tires. I cant figure out if the break over angle would happen before the rear end dragging if the break over angle happens first then I can just leave the rear end square.

 

[GTS225-TNT]

Well, a "fix" might be to bolt some Harbor Freight heavy duty casters under the rear frame rails. That way, if there is a moment of drag at the rear, the casters will take the load, and roll with the punch, so to speak.

Roger

 

[girvin]

Thats a great Idea. I wish I could find a formula to see if the front would hit on breakover height before the rear since I cant change the front.

 

[KTM_Guy]

Do you have a picture? What king of roads or trails are you planning on doing?

I didn’t do the the angle on mine and as far as I know never had a problem dragging. Casters might be an option for a on road trailer but I wouldn’t for off-road use. The chances for them getting ripped off are to great. Design your frame and cabin so nothing hangs over the back so if you do hang on something you don’t tear anything up when you slide off.

I’m not a fan of the fridge in the camper. It takes up to much room taking away from other storage like cookware and food. We keep our fridge in the back of the Jeep, that way if we leave the camper to explore we have drinks, and food with us. And now the battery for the fridge is in the Jeep it charges while we drive.

Have a look at my build and see if yours would be close. Then tell use what trail/roads you plan to do.

By the way I have a Jeep rubicon with 3.5 lift and 34’s.

Todd

 

[olddawgsrule]

My build design is a little over 1 foot shorter than what you plan. I clipped the back corner. I used Sketchup to design with then just drew a line from under the tire to the rear corner to see my exit degree.

I'm moving the axle forward from what this picture shows. Still determining actual position. The roof is set at the lifted position.

 

[girvin]

Yeah I dont have a pic but its basically a bruder exp 4 with a square back. I think it will be fine my frame rails are heavy duty and should be fine dragging here and there. Nothing hangs past them.Yall have some great builds! Can'tt wait to actually start mine just waiting on my welder. I have built alot oof cool stuff for others as a fabricator but this might be the first big thing I have made myself in 10 years. Just wish I had all my tools but they went with the company when I sold it. If I had my old set up i would of done the whole thing in aluminum but maybe the next one.

 

[Squigie]

Basic break-over is simple here.
It's just the double the angle necessary to intersect the bottom of the trailer at half the distance from the trailer axle to the rear axle of the tow vehicle. Because break-over is the limiting factor, due to the drag point always being the bottom of the trailer, approach and departure angles don't matter in the calculation (in my opinion).

If you want to know what you'll be dealing with in off-road situations with articulation, you just have to draw it out and do the geometry. It's simple stuff.

Just because you'll be dragging the belly doesn't mean you should ignore the rear end, too. If you think it's going to drag, do something about it.
I don't think casters are a good idea. Either notch it, or add a skid plate (or skids).


If you want to get anal about the angle of the dangle, break-over is also influenced by the TV's wheelbase and clearance geometries (break-over, approach, departure). But for a single axle trailer, I don't think it matters enough to do the math.

 

[Tony Latham]

Can'tt wait to actually start mine just waiting on my welder.

Why wait? I much prefer building off the chassis and loading the cabin when it's done.

[youtube]f9zh8GgOTtg[/youtube]

You don't have to deal with the fenders/wheels and tongue for months.



Tony

 

[Louisd75]

Can'tt wait to actually start mine just waiting on my welder.

Why wait? I much prefer building off the chassis and loading the cabin when it's done.

[youtube]f9zh8GgOTtg[/youtube]

You don't have to deal with the fenders/wheels and tongue for months.



Tony

It might not be easier in this case though. The Bruder trailers completely overlap the wheels/tires and I could see it being easier to build the body knowing exactly where that stuff is. I know with my inset wheels that it was much easier to build around the fenders. I will say though that I built the frame with jackstands on each corner which made it possible for me to set the frame flat on the ground (with axle/suspension not installed. That made roof work much easier.

 

[girvin]

great stuff guys Yeah I am doing a little but I would like to build on the trailer with my over hanging fenders but might start early. I was reading timbrens diagram I got the 4 in lift 3500HD and am running 32 in tires so it looks like I can figure my wheel arch with that since they only have 2 5/8 movement if I am reading it correctly. center of my tire will be 7 5/16 below my frame + 16in for the wheel + 3 in for clearance.