Flex line for propane stove.

[dh-TNT]

I'm putting my propane stove on a slide out and need a flex line to allow it pull out. Which would be better suited, a rubber hose, or a flexable gas line like they use on gas appliances?

 

[Ford Truck Man]

I'm interested in hearing everyone's ideas on this as well, not to be a thread hog or anything, I am working on the design stage of this in my build as well!

 

[bobhenry-TNT]

Must be the week for it !

I to, am planning on having the gas line ran on the chuck wagon. I am going to use a standard stainless gas line at the stove but since the stove is in the rear and the bottle is out front I will connect the bottle via a short section of hose with regulator incorporated in it, to a 1/2 black pipe ran to the rear.

I think in the case of constant flexing ( in and out on a slide ) I would lean real heavily towards a good grade of hose designed for propane applications.

 

[rbeemer]

If you are putting the stove on a slide out I would recommend using rubber hose for inside the trailer. If I understand what you are referring to the metal flexible hose that is used on appliances is not that flexible, you can bend it but it usually holds all the bends.

You could probably use the metal for outside the trailer but that would be expensive.

Just my thoughts

 

[GeoDrop]

Check this thread. My TD has a slide out drawer with a small 5lb propane tank underneath. I found a 24" hose that was the perfect length at my local farm-n-home.

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... highlight=

Photo's about half way down in the thread.

 

[GeoDrop]

I guess my setup is different.. your bottle is separate from the sliding drawer. I would consider finding a stainless steel braided hose. I couldn't find one w/o regulator.. but sure you could.. or just remove the regulator if you didn't need it.

 

[boomboomtulum]

Back in the day we had a Tent Trailer, it had a stove inside that one could remove and take outside and cook. There were gas conections at each location. The stove had a 3-4 ft rubber hose with a quick conector. At the stove was a short piece of stainless tubing so the rubber would not be close to the bottom of the stove and then the rubber hose to the conector. Im sure it was reinforced hose but was very flexable and never did I have problems with cracking, leaks, pinching etc.

Dave

 

[madjack]

...rubber hose rated for propane...any flex type metal hose will break from being constantly flexed in the situation you are describing, they are not designed or rated for such..............
madjack

 

[Dale M.]

...rubber hose rated for propane...any flex type metal hose will break from being constantly flexed in the situation you are describing, they are not designed or rated for such..............
madjack

Ditto....

http://www.protanksupply.com/low-pressu ... -hoses.asp

Dale

 

[Larry C-TNT]

You want an LPG rubber hose. However, You should be aware that almost all rubber Propane hoses are pin pricked to allow the gas that DOES get through the tube to dissipate to the atmosphere.
I suggest you install the hose in a well ventilated area so the gas that permeates through the hose will not accumulate in a confined area such as your closed hatch or cabin.

Larry C

 

[Larry C-TNT]

Also, You should look for a hose that meets DOT specs for propane. When you carry propane on public highways the standards are regulated by federal and state DOT. I think the standard you need is UL21 This hose is rated at 350PSI Max Working Pressure even though it will probably never see that. It also has a 5to1 safety factor.
You don't want the hoses used on gas grills.

Larry C.

 

[48Rob]

I purchased custom made hose from a hydraulic, etc, shop that makes custom high pressure propane hoses for fork lifts.

It cost me $30 or maybe it was $40 for two pieces of hose for my stove and water heater, but peace of mind was well worth it.

It is very flexible, allowing me to move the stove a couple feet for easy cleaning, and very strong so I don't have to worry about a leak.
I think it had wire mesh in the rubber as reinforcement and was rated at a couple thousand psi.

Rob

 

[eamarquardt]

I purchased custom made hose from a hydraulic, etc, shop that makes custom high pressure propane hoses for fork lifts.

It cost me $30 or maybe it was $40 for two pieces of hose for my stove and water heater, but peace of mind was well worth it.

It is very flexible, allowing me to move the stove a couple feet for easy cleaning, and very strong so I don't have to worry about a leak.
I think it had wire mesh in the rubber as reinforcement and was rated at a couple thousand psi.

Rob

I think this is the way to go. Get "industrial strength" for not much more than "home use" quality.

Cheers,

Gus

 

[Larry C-TNT]

For the sake of safety.........


Slow...
I know you have past experience with propane, but Please.....
do not use hydraulic hose for Propane!! Remember all propane hoses have pin pricked covers to allow the gas to escape through the cover. USE ONLY IN WELL VENTILATED AREA!!! Gasses leak through most hoses except those with a barrier (i.e. natural gas and refrigerants)

If you use Hydraulic hose which has a Nitrile tube the propane will leak through the tube and become trapped under the non pin pricked cover. This will create little bubbles of gas under the cover.

Rob.........
If you have a hose rated at a couple thousand PSI, I doubt it's for Propane. Get me the specs from the layline on the hose and I will tell you what you have. The layline also has the date of manufacture.

The hose used on forklifts are rated at 350PSI Working Pressure (5x1 safety factor) as are most all Propane hoses. The forklift hose has a stainless steel braid to add extra strength if the hose catches on something and for longevity from the weather.

It would be a great choice for a Teardrop. However, It will, as designed, allow the Propane to seep through the cover, so it must only be used outdoors in a well ventilated area. (UL21) Don't use Propane hose in a confined area!!!!

FYI: I run a hose shop and have been building, specing, testing, and selling hose for 40+ years. I am BCHD certified hose specialist. Our shop builds and hydro static tests/certifies thousands of Propane per year. We hydro test ALL Propane hoses to RMA specs of 2 times the WP (700PSI) for 10 minutes.

Larry C

 

[bobhenry-TNT]

This has been a real timely post for me. I was a couple hours away from going next door to the plumbing shop and purchasing what I needed to plumb the chuck wagon. I had scrounged a charbroil regulator and hose assembly off of a tossed out propane grill and was simply going to adapt it to the 1/2" black pipe that runs to the rear of the trailer to the stove but I guess I may need to either hard plumb it or go spend sone money at the propane joint.

 

[eamarquardt]

For the sake of safety.........


If you use Hydraulic hose which has a Nitrile tube the propane will leak through the tube and become trapped under the non pin pricked cover. This will create little bubbles of gas under the cover.

The hose used on forklifts are rated at 350PSI Working Pressure (5x1 safety factor) as are most all Propane hoses. The forklift hose has a stainless steel braid to add extra strength if the hose catches on something and for longevity from the weather.

It would be a great choice for a Teardrop. However, It will, as designed, allow the Propane to seep through the cover, so it must only be used outdoors in a well ventilated area. (UL21) Don't use Propane hose in a confined area!!!!

FYI: I run a hose shop and have been building, specing, testing, and selling hose for 40+ years. I am BCHD certified hose specialist. Our shop builds and hydro static tests/certifies thousands of Propane per year. We hydro test ALL Propane hoses to RMA specs of 2 times the WP (700PSI) for 10 minutes.

Larry C

I have learned not to argue with folks that know more than I (and even not to argue with "Big" Guy (Teardrops for Vets), even though I sometimes doubt his "facts" as he goes for the jugular (twice on each side) and won't let me know when I'VE WON the argument). Your explanation that propane hoses are designed to leak baffles me and seems to defy "common sense" that hoses carrying flamable gasses should be "gas tight". All serious leak testing is done with helium as it is the smallest element in its natural state (one helium atom even though hydrogen is smaller but hydrogen is actually two hydrogen atoms in a molecule). Propane is a big molecule (compared to a a water molecule) and it's surprising it gets through a rubber hose. I called a big hose shop and they confirmed your statements. WIERD. Learned something today. You'd think with modern materials they could make a hose that doesn't leak!

Cheers,

Gus

 

[Dale M.]

LGP hoses are made up of multiple layers of different materials...

The internal layer that is exposed to the LPG is in all practical purposes and if in good integrity is gas tight. AS IT SHOULD BE..

Outside of that you may have many layers of rubber or synthetic substances and fabric weaves.... On outside you have the outer coating, I would guess its called a dress coating.... This outer coating is where the micro perforations are.... Other wise if the inner passage or tube were to leak and it would just blow up the outer covering like a big balloon till it burst. The micro perforations in outer coating allow the propane to escape from under OUTER coating if there is a leak in inner wall.. This also allows the "ODOR" of propane to become apparent in area as a warning there is a problem....

But then I may be full of crap .....

Dale

 

[dh-TNT]

So, exactly how mutch propane can be expected to seep out of the hose? If it was a great amount you would be able to smell it.

 

[Dale M.]

So, exactly how mutch propane can be expected to seep out of the hose? If it was a great amount you would be able to smell it.

None..... It only happens if there is a structural defect of inner wall of hose....

Dale

 

[Larry C-TNT]

So, exactly how mutch propane can be expected to seep out of the hose? If it was a great amount you would be able to smell it.

None..... It only happens if there is a structural defect of inner wall of hose....

Dale

Dale, From my experience, MANY is more accurate. We hydro static test each and every LPG assembly we build, not so much to see if it leaks, we already know most will leak some propane, that's why the cover is pin pricked.

We hydro static pressure test to see if the hose, and mostly our fitting installation will withstand 2 times the working pressure, so we can supply test documentation. We mark the crimped fitting location, and check for any movement during the test. If an end blows off, that's a lot more serious than a tiny leak through the cover.
We experience approx. a 5% failure rate during hydro static pressure testing where water squirts from a bunch of holes like a law sprinkler! Not everybody tests their LPG assemblies. Most Non DOT hoses are probably not tested!

What everyone needs to understand is LPG flexible hose connections are designed for well ventilated areas where tiny propane leaks are not normally an issue. It's when this hose is used indoors or other confined area where the buildup of gas can be a problem. Indoor use requires hard plumbing, not hose!!

DH, To answer your question: I would assume any rubber (non barrier) hose will "probably" leak some propane, is this a problem? Probably not, UNLESS YOU KEEP THE PROPANE FILLED HOSE IN A CONFINED AREA.

There are probably hoses such as Teflon with SS overbraid or convoluted SS with SS overbraid that would be fine in confined ares, but may be cost prohibitive, and not meet DOT requirements.

The bottom line... Be safe, be safe, be safe... and consult your State and the Federal DOT for specific requirements concerning Propane connections and transported on public highways. Use hard plumbing, either black iron, copper tubing or what ever meets the requirements, and use the flexible (hose) connection only to connect to the appliance using appropriate methods, especially keeping the hose in ONLY well ventilated areas.

Safety Please......

Larry C.