Folding Foamie Camper a la Casita or Esterel in the Works

[TinkerTailor]

That's a great tip, Oleg. I will definitely do that when I set everything up with the heater. Thanks. Should have some more updates on the build soon... Roof is under construction.

 

[TinkerTailor]

Ok. I have built most of the roof structure and just put it up on the camper today.

Pretty exciting to have a roof up there, but it was a bit of a struggle to put it up and down - more so than I expected, so I think I will be installing gas struts, as Oleg suggested. I also plan to install small casters into recesses in the top of the front and back wall so that they will roll more smoothly along the inside surface of the roof as they are pulled up.

I started looking at liftsupportsdepot.com tonight. I need to figure out what struts I need. Any advice on this process? I think I will copy to the extent possible the mechanism on the Esterel as seen in the photo Oleg posted earlier in the thread. I'll see about weighing the walls and roof tomorrow. We will see how that goes.

The camper felt nice and spacious inside with the roof up:

A few other roof-related shots:

 

[OP827]

Did you see these builds: ÐаленÑин ÐодгоÑнÑй ?
Valentine's latest build used gas struts. Note that gas strut can put substantial constant(when stored and especially when towing) force on its brackets, which means reinforcement is a must in the attachment areas and folding wall hinges should be able to sustain that as well.
The strut assisting force can be calculated from the mechanism geometry and wall weight. I think that it should only be assisting for lifting not to be difficult, because if the strut is too strong then it may damage the attachment points and hinges, especially during towing with vibration and shocks added to its static force.

Rollers on the walls would probably be required once you install struts.

I also saw that some webbing or metal strips were used to limit roof to wall free movement. That way the roof cannot be blown away as the strips would hold the roof down. These strips can be seen in this video:

. Other designs I saw had the strips on the walls themselves, instead of edges, but the idea is the same.

Hope this helps, would be interesting to learn the weight of walls and roof.

 

[TinkerTailor]

Good info, as always Oleg. Thank you. I'll study those tonight. Another option that occurred to me, and that I think I'll try prior to engineering the strut solution, is to use a crank operated speaker stand to lift the ends of the roof as I set up each end, as seen in this video (though I'd be using it outside the camper):

 

[TinkerTailor]

I took the roof off and weighed it, putting one end of the roof on the scale, while the other end was supported on the floor, in order to mimic the weight supported while raising one end in the set-up process. The weight is only 36 lbs, But it feels like much more than that given the size and awkwardness, especially with a little bit of wind.

There is no PMF or paint on the top side, so it will be a bit heavier when all is said and done.

 

[OP827]

Do you have these grab handles for the roof edges like they have on Gobur, Esterel and other builds? Without them the lifting and holding the roof would be more difficult because the roof may want to slide down so more effort is needed to hold it in position.

Here is the grab handle picture to show what I am talking about:

 

[TinkerTailor]

Ah, thank you. I do not have anything like that, but I soon will!

 

[TinkerTailor]

They aren't on the camper yet, as I have to do a few things before I put the roof back on, and I'll need to have the roof up to know exactly where they should go, but I put together some grab handles today with some utility door pulls and black pvc I had lying around.

Thanks Oleg! Your design acumen and attention to detail are invaluable!

 

[OP827]

Thanks for kind words, happy to help. These handles should work, the PVC sticking out part looks a bit long, not sure if there will be enough room for the roof edge freedom of movement during lifting, but I am sure you will figure all the little details out. Would appreciate if you report if these little devices will make lifting the roof easier. I am interested in this simple design, because it's ... simple and virtually no mechanics to potentially break. Thanks for update

 

[TinkerTailor]

Will do, Oleg. You're probably right about the length of the pvc on the grab handles. I figured easier to cut them down if necessary.

I have put in wheels and chamfered the front and back walls so that they'll slide more easily over the roof when putting up the camper. I also got some aluminum strips to connect the roof to the the walls on pivot points (as on the front wall, I believe, on the Esterel). Those strips will keep the roof connected, as you pointed out, Oleg, and will also pull the wall up somewhat when I lift the roof. Once I get those installed I'll try it out and see if I want to put in any gas struts or not. If so I'll do it following the design on the Esterel/Casitas.

Another XPS foam project under way is a new surfboard, seen here getting a bender ply skin vacuum-bagged on the bottom, and a cork top skin.

 

[S. Heisley]

I took the roof off and weighed it, putting one end of the roof on the scale, while the other end was supported on the floor, in order to mimic the weight supported while raising one end in the set-up process. The weight is only 36 lbs, But it feels like much more than that given the size and awkwardness, especially with a little bit of wind.

There is no PMF or paint on the top side, so it will be a bit heavier when all is said and done.

Mine is 70 lbs of mostly wood but, since it has a hinge on one end, I'm only lifting 35 lbs. If you can tip one end at a time and set the lifting wall, followed by the other end and then the sides, it might work okay for you. If you can find a way to brace the roof while you're putting up that first folding wall, all the better. It's difficult to lift the roof with one hand while moving the lifting wall into position. The farther towards the middle you have to stand, the more difficult it becomes. I can't do that so I installed a marine pad-eye on the outside of the end and use a marine push-pull pole to raise and lower the roof.

 

[TinkerTailor]

Thanks, S. Heisley,

That's the plan. Going to get the roof back on and see how manageable it is without gas struts. I think having a push pole or something as you suggest will help a lot, so I'm going to try that as well. Thanks for weighing in with your experience!

 

[S. Heisley]

Thanks, S. Heisley,

That's the plan. Going to get the roof back on and see how manageable it is without gas struts. I think having a push pole or something as you suggest will help a lot, so I'm going to try that as well. Thanks for weighing in with your experience!

I just bought this one, which guarantees not to seize up: https://www.amazon.com/EVERSPROUT-Teles ... 237&sr=8-2

I had this telescoping kind but found that with age, it started seizing up and finally wouldn't close at all: https://www.amazon.com/Trac-Outdoors-C1 ... 37&sr=8-25 I looked up how to unseize one and the video was using 3 men and a hammer...Nope! Not gonna do that one!

As a plus, you can use your push-pull pole to install strings of Christmas lights on your house!

 

[TinkerTailor]

Thanks - that telescoping pole looks great! More posts relatively soon...

 

[kimphan]

Would this hydraulic speaker lift works? It can support up to 145 lbs and extend up to 79" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN2JX3E/re ... ZFCP2EW8WP

 

[kimphan]

Hi TinkerTailor,

Thank you for sharing your build, it is very creative and so inspirational. I am very interested in replicating similar build as yours (only shorter walls 5').

I read you mentioned that you use 2" foam, is that right? I went to home depot today and they were nominal size 2" meaning that the 1X2" won't fit... did you have to rip your own 1X2" to fit the thickness of the foam?
My build will be 7.5 X 12 feet, would you recommend that I stick with the nominal 2" thick foam?

I also went to look for sash lock and they only lock two lined up wall, did you find an alternative to locking the perpendicular walls?

Thanks,
Kim

 

[TinkerTailor]

Hi Kimpham -

Thanks for your suggestion, and good luck with your build!

I did rip my 1X2s down to 2 inches on the tablesaw to frame the 2 inch foam. Also, I am not using the sash locks as the vintage plans called for. I'm currently using angle irons/corner braces with knob screws. I'll try to remember to take a photo the next time the camper is set up. I think I will likely change this mechanism on at least one side, and I'll update here when/if I do.

That speaker stand would work, I think. I actually ordered one, but I may return it, as I tried putting the roof up after installing the wheels in the walls pictured in a post above, and it went up much more easily than before. So I think I will just need a push stick like the the marine poles discussed above. I'll post about it when I've sorted that out for sure.

I'm currently finishing the PMF on the roof, then need to install aluminum strips that will permanently connect the roof to the front/back walls.

Another design consideration I overlooked if you build something like this is to build one folding side wall about 2 1/8" or so taller than the other side (with that side of the base lower by an equivalent height) so that that wall can nest underneath the other side wall and the whole assembly can lay flat when the camper is not set up. I didn't anticipate that and had to find a work around late in the game, which I'll take photos of and post next time the camper is out of the garage and set up. If this makes no sense, the photos when I get to them will help.

 

[kimphan]

I did rip my 1X2s down to 2 inches on the tablesaw to frame the 2 inch foam.

Thank you for confirming,.
I was hoping for a 1.5" nominal thickness to save time and effort. I think I'm going to sleep on it for the next couple of days.
I went to home depot and really like how the 1.5 feel.
I'm able to source my 1.5" foam from a local neighborhood company that are 25psi instead of home depot's 15psi. Hoping that it might be good enough.
My trailer will be under 2' when folded and the walls are much shorter so I'm hoping I can get away with it.
I'm also planning for a "beefy" base since it need to support the roof while transporting (without the removable rafters) as well.

Also, I am not using the sash locks as the vintage plans called for. I'm currently using angle irons/corner braces with knob screws. I'll try to remember to take a photo the next time the camper is set up. I think I will likely change this mechanism on at least one side, and I'll update here when/if I do.

I see how that will work, thank you very much!

That speaker stand would work, I think. I actually ordered one, but I may return it, as I tried putting the roof up after installing the wheels in the walls pictured in a post above, and it went up much more easily than before. So I think I will just need a push stick like the the marine poles discussed above. I'll post about it when I've sorted that out for sure.
I'm currently finishing the PMF on the roof, then need to install aluminum strips that will permanently connect the roof to the front/back walls.

Thanks for the tips on the speaker stand.
So I was planning on having the roof and the 8 inches "overhang" to be all foam, with corner canvas overlap and form a continous "lid". My plan is that as part of set up, I will take the whole roof out/up, and insert rafters/spars then put the roof back on. This eliminate the need for having a curved top wall and the wheels and a "heavy" lid. Although I might change my mind later.

Another design consideration I overlooked if you build something like this is to build one folding side wall about 2 1/8" or so taller than the other side (with that side of the base lower by an equivalent height) so that that wall can nest underneath the other side wall and the whole assembly can lay flat when the camper is not set up. I didn't anticipate that and had to find a work around late in the game, which I'll take photos of and post next time the camper is out of the garage and set up. If this makes no sense, the photos when I get to them will help.

Exactly!!! that is what I thought as well. Thank you for pointing that out. I think I notice the "additional strip" you put on in one of the base to heighten it to compensate for this.
I notice that you chamfer 45 degree the bottom corner of the folding walls is that to make the folding go deeper/lower. I remember you mentioned 45 degree chamfer the wall for waterproofing but can't ponder that concept yet. I am worried about how that will compromised the 1X2 frame but don't want to move to the heavy 2x2 frame. I am thinking about making wooden steps (that I need to use to step on to the camper) that t-nut bolt to the floor during transport that are the same height with the fold down touching it at the "wood frame" buffered with soft foam (our memory foam camping mattress) and hence all my folds will be exactly 90 degree with walls parallel to the floor.
I'm also planning for removable windows and doors as well.

Thanks,
Kim.

 

[TinkerTailor]

I didn't end up doing the 45 degree chamfer on the wall to wall joint. If I need to, I'll install drip edge that covers the joint when set up.

The chamfers you do see in the photos allow the hinges themselves to be tucked out of the way when the camper folds or opens. If they stuck out, the walls wouldn't be able to swing freely.

If you can get 1.5" foam easily, I think it will be just fine. Go for it! Much easier than ripping the timber. More soonish.

 

[OP827]

...
If you can get 1.5" foam easily, I think it will be just fine. Go for it! Much easier than ripping the timber. More soonish.

I did my build with 1.5" 250psi XPS from a local drywall contractor supply company and it worked out great. Price also was better than from a box store.