Hiker Trailer Inspired 5x10 Foamie Design

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Original Member Title: Hiker Trailer Inspired 5x10 Foamie Design
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A member is planning a 5x10 Hiker-style foamie camper on a Harbor Freight trailer to be towed by a 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid, with a target build weight under 1,000 pounds and sleeping space for two adults plus two young children. The proposed design uses XPS foam, PMF, a full mattress, small bunks, purchased side doors, a compact galley, and possibly a 270-degree awning, and the member asked for critique on layout, construction, door placement, hatch design, and materials.

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I'm continuing to work on the trailer frame, bit by bit. I got the front and rear bumpers mounted on Sunday and assembled and attached the tongue yesterday. The only minor issue I ran into is that the instructions are unclear where to start subs of the measurements, which made the tongue mounts a tight fit without moving things, but it all went together in the end.

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As I was wrapping up last night it occurred to me that the cross member attachments didn't look like I expected. I had assumed that the cross members would sit flush at the top with the upper side rails. Instead, they seem to be about an inch lower (I didn't measure yet). Also, the span between cross members will be anywhere during 2-3 feet. Lastly, with the brackets, washers, and bolt heads, I think I'll want to built 1"-2" wider than 5'. The frame is 5' from outside of one rail to the outside of the other.

All that to say, my first big decision is going to be how to build, support, and attach my floor. I'd like to avoid adding any extra height above the side rails, so want build weight on the frame. I feel like 2" foam sandwiched between 2 layers of 1/8" plywood should be plenty strong for the spans but don't have wood or foam purchased to give that a try yet. I'll either need to fill the gap between the to of the cross members and to off the side rails, or raise the cross members.

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I'm lean towards the later. I think that I could flip the cross member brackets, drill new holes I'm those and that should make it level, I'm just not sure how much of be undermining those brackets by flipping them.

I'll have a bunch of time to think because I found a guy seeking scratch and dent test doors from Hiker trailers (42" x 42") for$40, so I'm making a long drive to pick one up. It's over 4 hours one way, but the price feels too good to pass up. I also found a nice set of roof bars for really cheap that I'm planning to pick up next week.
 
So I had a thought or 2 on my frame issue and could use some feedback of anyone sees issues. Since following the instructions will leave my frame rails approximately 1" above my cross members rather than flush, I thought I could:

a) Run a 1x2 down the inside edge of the frame. These boards could attach to the mounts, then the cross members could attach to the boats.

b) I could flip the mounts over and then drill/screw the cross members into the mounts. The only issue I see is the L shaped brackets would hang rather than resting on top of the lower frame rail (see photos)

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Normal mount position. It's hard to see, but there is a gap between the top of the mount and the upper frame rail.


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Mount flipped upside down. Tails would need attached to the higher surface which doesn't have mounting hinges.

Also, I went and picked up the rear door and also lucked into finding side doors! They were over 4 hours away, but I was able to get all three doors for $140! The side doors have been installed and they're are a few surface scratches, but nothing that can't be touched up.

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Finished up the trailer assembly this weekend with some help from my dad. I ended up deciding to just install the cross members as designed, I was worried changing too much would weaken the construction.
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You see I've been contemplating how I'm going to do my floor attachment with the recessed cross members. I found some 1x2 cedar boards at Menards and think I'm going to go that route. My sandwich floor will sit on the cedar spacers and on the outer frame rails.

I'm at a bit of a standstill as I haven't bought foam or plywood yet, so I started buying together a battery/electrical platform that will eventually go in my tongue box (that I also haven't bought yet).
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Here's my general setup so far.
 
I found a good deal on Marketplace and picked up a toolbox for the tongue last weekend. After setting it on the frame, I was worried it might stick out to far. But after a quick test, I can turn full lock to lock and still have about 8"-10" between the box and the TV. It would hit if jackknifed, but I think it's enough clearance to be fine.

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Should give lots of addition storage for a low weight penalty, since the box is aluminum and only weighs 35 pounds.

I also weighed the frame using a bathroom scale and adding the two tires plus the tongue. I came up with 485 pounds, which is 85 pounds more than I'd budgeted.
 

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