Hobbit themed Teardrop
- Thread starter yayeric
- Start date
Buildling the pathways for electrical. I made some paths out of wood, making them blend in with the interior environment. Added openings here and there to assist me in feeding wires through.
First, cutting the correct holes. I discovered how useful and oscillating tool can be. Somehow, when I don't know how to do something, the oscillating tool is the correct answer.
Here is the wire channel - this was simply glued on.
On the back end, the channels that weren't going to be covered up by the matress were made of walnut. An access point in the back of the cubby with a removable french cleat to feed wires to the galley or through the roof
First, cutting the correct holes. I discovered how useful and oscillating tool can be. Somehow, when I don't know how to do something, the oscillating tool is the correct answer.
Here is the wire channel - this was simply glued on.
On the back end, the channels that weren't going to be covered up by the matress were made of walnut. An access point in the back of the cubby with a removable french cleat to feed wires to the galley or through the roof
I added electrical channels into the roof as well, going to the sconces and one towards the fan. I don't have photos of those though.
Here the insulation was curfed and cut to fit. I rotated each piece 180° after each curf, so my cuts met in the middle. This kept my hand from getting near the blade
And the exterior skin was attached. I threw on a ton of staples, definitely overkill
Here the insulation was curfed and cut to fit. I rotated each piece 180° after each curf, so my cuts met in the middle. This kept my hand from getting near the blade
And the exterior skin was attached. I threw on a ton of staples, definitely overkill
Before I put the trailer togethor, I cut off the side walls of the galley door. I did my best but I screwed it up - my cuts were angled, wobbly, and just didn't look good. I don't have photos of this, but trust me, it was bad.
I had to straighten out the cuts on the wall, but needed to learn how to recreate the side portions of the galley hatch and have them fit.
I followed Stumpy Nubs negative template tutorial.
I used the real-scale template from the beginning as a template for the exterior portion, and created a negative template with 1/8" shaved off for the interior portion using. This worked very well, I was nervous I wasn't going to be able to build this. The results were great, can't even tell I goofed up.
I had to straighten out the cuts on the wall, but needed to learn how to recreate the side portions of the galley hatch and have them fit.
I followed Stumpy Nubs negative template tutorial.
I used the real-scale template from the beginning as a template for the exterior portion, and created a negative template with 1/8" shaved off for the interior portion using. This worked very well, I was nervous I wasn't going to be able to build this. The results were great, can't even tell I goofed up.
Building the hatch was straight forward from here
Here I added some reinforcement - an oak block with dowels running through to keep the front oak beam and side walls together. Simply having them glued together didn't strike me as strong enough.
Here the electrical channels are made. These are the areas for the galley lights. I added a second layer of 1/8" baltic birch for a little extra strength in this area
And the License Plate light
Here the wire channels are being made by stacking 1/8" baltic birch strips
Here I added some reinforcement - an oak block with dowels running through to keep the front oak beam and side walls together. Simply having them glued together didn't strike me as strong enough.
Here the electrical channels are made. These are the areas for the galley lights. I added a second layer of 1/8" baltic birch for a little extra strength in this area
And the License Plate light
Here the wire channels are being made by stacking 1/8" baltic birch strips
Creating a window. A bit trickier than I initially thought. I wanted a window that met the following
1) Blocked the rain, had to open outwards
2) Had an insect screen
3) Could be opened from the inside through the insect screen
4) Adequate space to allow for some seal to function. Had to confirm what weather seals existed, then build around those
I used illutrator to create the vector outlines, cut those out with a CO2 laser cutter, and creating router guides from those
These were for the interior, the insect screen attachment points
I used a plunge router and a circle jig to create the windows here
Using the CO2 cut guide as a screw-placement guide, I drilled some holes, inserted some brass threads, and cut those flush with an oscillating tool
Used a table router to create these walnut pieces. The exterior portion of the window is glued on, while the interior pieces can be removed. They're attach to the window with machine screws to the threaded brass inserts
Creating the interior portions....
The first piece attached was glued on, but has holes cut through to allow the second piece to attach. The insect screen can be attached between these two pieces with the screws used to attach the second outer piece. This also allows the screen to be easily replaced. I just have to make sure I don't strip the brass inserts in the future.....
Here are the threaded brass inserts for the outer second piece
I'm missing some photos here I wish I took, but here's the layout
Here are the inner piece, outer piece, and the handle rest
I dont' know how to use a mill or lathe, so I used an angle grinder and a hammer to make the flexible rod. I chose brass because it'll look better over time as it oxidizes
1) Blocked the rain, had to open outwards
2) Had an insect screen
3) Could be opened from the inside through the insect screen
4) Adequate space to allow for some seal to function. Had to confirm what weather seals existed, then build around those
I used illutrator to create the vector outlines, cut those out with a CO2 laser cutter, and creating router guides from those
These were for the interior, the insect screen attachment points
I used a plunge router and a circle jig to create the windows here
Using the CO2 cut guide as a screw-placement guide, I drilled some holes, inserted some brass threads, and cut those flush with an oscillating tool
Used a table router to create these walnut pieces. The exterior portion of the window is glued on, while the interior pieces can be removed. They're attach to the window with machine screws to the threaded brass inserts
Creating the interior portions....
The first piece attached was glued on, but has holes cut through to allow the second piece to attach. The insect screen can be attached between these two pieces with the screws used to attach the second outer piece. This also allows the screen to be easily replaced. I just have to make sure I don't strip the brass inserts in the future.....
Here are the threaded brass inserts for the outer second piece
I'm missing some photos here I wish I took, but here's the layout
Here are the inner piece, outer piece, and the handle rest
I dont' know how to use a mill or lathe, so I used an angle grinder and a hammer to make the flexible rod. I chose brass because it'll look better over time as it oxidizes
Building drawers. I did 1/4" inch cuts, with 1/4" spacing all around. Easy to router with only 2 bits.
These went together very easily
Here is the stove drawer. The top holds the stove, the drawer holds some cutting or heat boards
I believe I remade these because the orientation of the make and female ends was wrong. But the process is the same, just swapped the cuts for the sides with the top/bottom....
Double checking the spacing, making sure everything will fit, measuring twice, etc....
Adding the walls. I used 1/4" thick oak pieces as spacers, adding some strength to the walls
Now, something I wish I though of that cost me an arm and a leg.....
I had 18" of space under my galley table. I had an 18 inch cooler. Most drawer slides only extend out their length + 1". The max extendable distance is 19"
When I pull out a cooler 19 inches, it does indeed clear the table, however it does not allow me to open the lid. The lid is 3 inches tall. It opens more than 90°. I needed an 18 inch long drawer slide that extended 23".
I though of some alternative
1) Double up on drawer slides. Turns out the drawer slides have a weight capacity for the length they extend. I'd need some heavy duty drawer slides.
2) Turn the cooler around. Not only would this be annoying, but I'd only have 1" of space to reach behind the cooler to undo the latches. Not happening
3) Make the cooler tray slightly tiltable. I didn't feel like engineering that.
I settled on buying 150% super extension hinges. Turns out America makes these.....with a 5 month lead time. I had to buy them from Britain.
Not only did I need them for the cooler, but I needed them for the oven as well. It too was 18", but needed an additional 5" to open the lid and attach the wind guards.
I needed 2 sets, 4 total. They were $200 each, with $200 shipping, $1,000 total, for two sets of drawer slides...... Thankfully no tariffs were applied.....
If I were to do this trailer again, I'd make it 6" longer and avoid this whole issue.
Here are the drawer slides. They are rated for 500lbs, which is pretty cool. Guess my cooler functions as an additional seat now.... I did some math, and if the trailer weights in at 1,400lbs, these drawer slides alone will account for 5% of that.....
Getting the spacing juuuuust right
Built some drawers using the same method above. I needed 1" of extra space, for 1/4" of space between all the drawers. I was happy with this number =]
I had some leftover threaded brass inserts, so I installed those. Figured if I ever needed to replace the drawer slides this will make it easy
And everything mostly fit. I added some washers to some of the drawer slides so they were perfectly parallel. They pull very smoothly now
These went together very easily
Here is the stove drawer. The top holds the stove, the drawer holds some cutting or heat boards
I believe I remade these because the orientation of the make and female ends was wrong. But the process is the same, just swapped the cuts for the sides with the top/bottom....
Double checking the spacing, making sure everything will fit, measuring twice, etc....
Adding the walls. I used 1/4" thick oak pieces as spacers, adding some strength to the walls
Now, something I wish I though of that cost me an arm and a leg.....
I had 18" of space under my galley table. I had an 18 inch cooler. Most drawer slides only extend out their length + 1". The max extendable distance is 19"
When I pull out a cooler 19 inches, it does indeed clear the table, however it does not allow me to open the lid. The lid is 3 inches tall. It opens more than 90°. I needed an 18 inch long drawer slide that extended 23".
I though of some alternative
1) Double up on drawer slides. Turns out the drawer slides have a weight capacity for the length they extend. I'd need some heavy duty drawer slides.
2) Turn the cooler around. Not only would this be annoying, but I'd only have 1" of space to reach behind the cooler to undo the latches. Not happening
3) Make the cooler tray slightly tiltable. I didn't feel like engineering that.
I settled on buying 150% super extension hinges. Turns out America makes these.....with a 5 month lead time. I had to buy them from Britain.
Not only did I need them for the cooler, but I needed them for the oven as well. It too was 18", but needed an additional 5" to open the lid and attach the wind guards.
I needed 2 sets, 4 total. They were $200 each, with $200 shipping, $1,000 total, for two sets of drawer slides...... Thankfully no tariffs were applied.....
If I were to do this trailer again, I'd make it 6" longer and avoid this whole issue.
Here are the drawer slides. They are rated for 500lbs, which is pretty cool. Guess my cooler functions as an additional seat now.... I did some math, and if the trailer weights in at 1,400lbs, these drawer slides alone will account for 5% of that.....
Getting the spacing juuuuust right
Built some drawers using the same method above. I needed 1" of extra space, for 1/4" of space between all the drawers. I was happy with this number =]
I had some leftover threaded brass inserts, so I installed those. Figured if I ever needed to replace the drawer slides this will make it easy
And everything mostly fit. I added some washers to some of the drawer slides so they were perfectly parallel. They pull very smoothly now
And now we're back to now - Adding the exterior trim. Bought some cheap and rough boards, resawed them 1/4" thick and planed them flat.
Cut everything to size
Made some dowels for attaching everything (see initial posts for that method)
Testing some layotu ideas. These bars had to dowel into the 3/4" skeleton and cover any defects in the outer wall. These limitations gave me this layout
These are temporarily installed, being held on my dowels. They'll be epoxied in once everything is attached.
For the curve on the roof, I needed to steam bend some wood.
I initially tried to let it soak in hot water, and as far as I can tell worked just as well as steaming for getting the wood to bend, but it does take much longer to dry. Not too much of a concern in the dry Nevada climate, but could be tough in areas with higher humidity.
Adding boiling water for a 30 min soak....
But the steamer is definitely the better option
Cut everything to size
Made some dowels for attaching everything (see initial posts for that method)
Testing some layotu ideas. These bars had to dowel into the 3/4" skeleton and cover any defects in the outer wall. These limitations gave me this layout
These are temporarily installed, being held on my dowels. They'll be epoxied in once everything is attached.
For the curve on the roof, I needed to steam bend some wood.
I initially tried to let it soak in hot water, and as far as I can tell worked just as well as steaming for getting the wood to bend, but it does take much longer to dry. Not too much of a concern in the dry Nevada climate, but could be tough in areas with higher humidity.
Adding boiling water for a 30 min soak....
But the steamer is definitely the better option
KCStudly
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2012
- Posts
- 9,686
Awesome build. The one eyed cat looks just like the one at The Red Barn. Are you sure you won't be towing that with a 914? Lol.
S. Heisley
Senior Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2007
- Posts
- 8,922
Definitely awesome.
Thanks! The errors were the best way to learn. I learned the hard way that it's best to practice on scrap before the real thing - would have been significantly faster. It's certainly easier to figure out how to do something with a practice model in your hand rather than trying to think your way through it using the model in your head. Cardboard is the way to go.
Firm believer that anyone can do anything, you simply need to give it the time that it needs.
Tony Latham's book and Adam Savage's "Every Tool's a Hammer" are two reads I recommend before taking on this endevour
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