Hybrid Foamie Trailer With Plywood Skeleton

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Original Member Title: Hybrid foamie with a plywood skeleton build thread
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A member is documenting a hybrid foamie camper build using laminated plywood ribs, foam infill, epoxy sealing, and PMF inside and out. The pod is intended to be removable from the trailer, with rounded front and roof edges, a planned dome skylight, support provisions for a bunk, roof rack, vent, and a rear hatch area sloped for drainage.

Points of agreement
  • A mock-up or test section was considered useful before committing to the curved foam and expanding-foam...
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............. Im anxious to get it out camping, so I may forgo some of the finer details to be able to get up to the high country and escape the scorching temps!

That is a good idea. You never know what's really important or how things will work until you actually try it. Most campers are never truly finished. You'll change things once you start using it.
 
I made some progress on the hatch yesterday. I routed some grooves in the frame to tie in the bracing. Will be routing in a groove on the back to accommodate a gutter to mitigate water intrusion (especially at the corners that will be beyond the edge of the hurricane hinge). Im probably going to use some copper strip that I have laying around (2"wide) because it is so malleable, I figured I'd pound it around a round bar to get a J profile, then work it around the curve at the corners. Should leave plenty of room for the gasket outside of that. I have a bit of trimming to do in order to accommodate the hurricane hinge, then I'll bed it in either epoxy or polyester resin before I start filling the frame with foam. Experimented with cutting angles on the end of the vertical panel and using gorilla glue to connect straps of angle cut foam to fill the curved sections. Got a bit of a high point that ill have to trim, but it seems solid wedged into the frame. I flipped it over again and added a good coat of polyurethane varnish over the penetrating epoxy, looks really good.

My next challenge is planning out my mounting points for the roof rack and sidewall accessories. My plan is to router grooves into the stringers/ribs to bed in some 1/4" x 1" aluminum flat bar with thickened epoxy. In order to tie in, I'll put rivnuts every 8" to attach L track & T-slot track to. I fire that will give me some solid mounts and plenty of adjustability, even if I don't add it all immediately (it'll be under the PMF skin). The rivnuts will end up being visible through the skin, so it will end up looking a bit "warty", but easy to locate to tie into. I'll seal over them with aluminum tape before skinning to keep them free of glue and paint. Probably all overkill, but it keeps mounting options open in the future.

Got the window(refurbishing the old Hehr windows i took out of the truck camper) and door framed in (still building the door, and it will have a window as well).

Grabbed a couple of wheels that I had (15" x 265) but they have too much offset, so it'll have to be an axle swap, but I probably should do that anyway for better hubs than the HF ones.

That's all for now, as always, tips and ideas are always welcome and encouraged!
 

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I assume you know that to avoid water intrusion with a hurricane hinge, it needs to go beyond the wall?

AXBn48R.jpg



Tony
Yes, im painfully aware, but because of my design choice of the curved edges, I'm left with having to create some sort of gutter system to move the water away from the curves. Another one of my design choices that I'm dealing with the consequences of.🙄 i might be able to attach a deflection cover once I have it skinned, ill see how it goes once I get there!
 
Went and scored a heavy duty axle for $50 to accommodate the bigger wheels that I found 3 of (265/60 15") that have a pretty deep offset, but since I've got to cut down the axle anyway should be no problem
 
You mentioned polyester resin.^^ just remember that polyester resin... actually the MEK or (other?) catalyst in it, eats foam like gasoline!!! "I'm melting away", ala the wicked witch.
 
You mentioned polyester resin.^^ just remember that polyester resin... actually the MEK or (other?) catalyst in it, eats foam like gasoline!!! "I'm melting away", ala the wicked witch.
Yes. It's ok once cured though, isn't it? I'm waiting for my epoxy to show up, but I've got a couple of gallons of polyester resin that I thought I could utilize on the wood before I add any of the foam.
 
It's ok once cured though, isn't it? I'm waiting for my epoxy to show up, but I've got a couple of gallons of polyester resin that I thought I could utilize on the wood before I add any of the foam.

It won't dissolve foam after it's cured. Epoxy will adhere to bare wood much better than it does to cured polyester resin, so I'm not sure what your intent is with the polyester.


Tony
 

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