Is there a way to fix wall

[Sara-TNT]

Hi,
I was going to attach one of my finished walls to the floor today...and I had it laying down on the trailer with the front end hanging off the trailer so I could clean up the bottom edge....and then, I didn't think, but I say on it. I heard a cracking noise and saw that part of the 1/8" inner wall came off the skeleton.

The outside wall does not have any cracks.

The skeleton seems fine. I'm building to Tony's book so it i

s the place where I connected an 8' board to a 2' board to get to 10'.

How do I fix this? Is the wall a lost cause?

See pictures.

Next question....
When I put the wall on the floor, the galley section will need some shims to meet the floor. Are shims ok, or are there better methods to true up this section of the wall to meet the floor. The rest of the floor looks pretty good.

See picture.

 

[halfdome Danny]

I’ve never seen a wall attached with a butt joint and pocket screws. I run a 3/4” x 1/4” deep plow about 1” from the bottom and apply Gorilla Glue and screw from the outside.
Much stronger in my opinion. Danny

 

[Pmullen503]

Get as much glue in that joint as you can, clamp it and let it dry. Use a piece of card board to push the glue in as far as you can.

On the wall to floor; is the wall not straight or is the trailer sagging in that corner?

If the wall is straight and it's the trailer, jack up that corner to get it straight and attach the wall.

 

[TimC-TNT]

You'll get some good suggestions for repairs from the rest of the gang here. I'll give it a try...

It is good that your sheathing seam overlaps the splined joint in the frame. I would carefully flex the wall and see how the unwanted crack opens. If you are able to squeeze some epoxy into the gaps with a syringe and then clamp the area, front and back. Add some wax paper to keep the squeeze out from gluing what you don't want to remain. It's worth a try. When the epoxy is set give it a careful flex and see if it holds. Though that area appears to have the doorway I think it will take few stresses if glued/reinforced well. And you can always reinforce the interior, below a mattress, with some trim to stiffen it up a bit.

After your repair is set and if your sheathing is being wrapped with more material (aluminum/canvas/whatever) you could add a few wooden dowels by drilling perpendicular to the wall and gluing the dowels in the holes. I don't think more than three or four dowels would be needed.

#2
Your photo is confusing. What is the wall sitting on on the right side?

More questions back at ya... Is the bottom of the wall straight? If so, is the floor in the galley area hanging over the chassis frame causing it to droop? If you start with a flat chassis frame and add a floor and it is not flat then I guess the floor isn't installed correctly? Just a guess.

If the floor is drooping maybe the wall will draw up straight when you attach it.

 

[Tony Latham]

The lifted 1/8" Baltic is easily fixable. I, too, would get as much epoxy in as possible, but I think I would also add a couple of flathead screws after countersinking.

What I don't understand is the issue with the floor and shims? The floor should look like this:

Tony

 

[Sara-TNT]

You'll get some good suggestions for repairs from the rest of the gang here. I'll give it a try...

It is good that your sheathing seam overlaps the splined joint in the frame. I would carefully flex the wall and see how the unwanted crack opens. If you are able to squeeze some epoxy into the gaps with a syringe and then clamp the area, front and back. Add some wax paper to keep the squeeze out from gluing what you don't want to remain. It's worth a try. When the epoxy is set give it a careful flex and see if it holds. Though that area appears to have the doorway I think it will take few stresses if glued/reinforced well. And you can always reinforce the interior, below a mattress, with some trim to stiffen it up a bit.

After your repair is set and if your sheathing is being wrapped with more material (aluminum/canvas/whatever) you could add a few wooden dowels by drilling perpendicular to the wall and gluing the dowels in the holes. I don't think more than three or four dowels would be needed.

#2
Your photo is confusing. What is the wall sitting on on the right side?

More questions back at ya... Is the bottom of the wall straight? If so, is the floor in the galley area hanging over the chassis frame causing it to droop? If you start with a flat chassis frame and add a floor and it is not flat then I guess the floor isn't installed correctly? Just a guess.

If the floor is drooping maybe the wall will draw up straight when you attach it.

The wall is sitting on the floor on the trailer. I double checked the level and the front was a little off so I jacked up the front of the trailer to level it. Tomorrow I will measure from frame to floor and recheck the wall on the trailer. Thanks for your help

 

[Sara-TNT]

The lifted 1/8" Baltic is easily fixable. I, too, would get as much epoxy in as possible, but I think I would also add a couple of flathead screws after countersinking.

What I don't understand is the issue with the floor and shims? The floor should look like this:

Tony

Hi, my floor is on the trailer. I checked the level and the front was a little off so I jacked up the front of the trailer to level it. I will test the wall on the trailer again tomorrow. Thank you for your guidance....I am so close to assembly

 

[Sara-TNT]

The wall is sitting on the floor on the trailer. I double checked the level and the front was a little off so I jacked up the front of the trailer to level it. Tomorrow I will measure from frame to floor and recheck the wall on the trailer. Thanks for your help

Get as much glue in that joint as you can, clamp it and let it dry. Use a piece of card board to push the glue in as far as you can.

On the wall to floor; is the wall not straight or is the trailer sagging in that corner?

If the wall is straight and it's the trailer, jack up that corner to get it straight and attach the wall.

Just measured and it's the trailer. That corner of the trailer is lower than the other corner. I'm new to trailers...so I want to make sure I understand correctly. Please confirm... I don't have to dismantle the trailer....just jack up the corner so it's level, then attach the teardrop wall.

 

[Pmullen503]

Just measured and it's the trailer. That corner of the trailer is lower than the other corner. I'm new to trailers...so I want to make sure I understand correctly. Please confirm... I don't have to dismantle the trailer....just jack up the corner so it's level, then attach the teardrop wall.

Yes, just jack up the low corner. It didn't look that far out to worry about leveling the entire trailer before assembly.

When I attached the floor and walls on mine, I used jack stands at the four corners. I cut some wood wedges I could tap in to keep the floor level during assembly.

 

[TimC-TNT]

Before assuming the garage floor is level at all four corners of the trailer chassis maybe check it with a laser level or water tube level. Making an adjustment when you do not know if the concrete is level may cause additional frustration. My new garage floor, poured this summer, looks nice and level. However, before I built the roof 3/4" of water would collect in a back corner. Once covered it doesn't matter for what I am using it for.