Just A Noob's 6X12 Conversion

Hi Fred, great looking trailer you have there.. :thumbsup:
about those steps you've made,, I like those.. Is that just black galvanized pipe? :thinking:
How do you adjust them? Could you show a couple more pictures of them, please?
 
Hi Dave,

Thanks for the kudos.

That's the only pic that I have. The step frame is made of regular 1/2" galvanized pipe and fittings painted black. The step is 1" pine, and each step is attached with a total of 6, #10/24 bolts tightened with nylocks. I cut a filler piece of wood to bridge the gap between the fittings and the underside of the step. That might not have been necessary, but it made be feel better. The steps are adjustable with a 1/4x20 screw at the bottom. I drilled and tapped threads into the pipe cap. The whole step unit slides into a mount that I attached to the frame. The mount is 1 1/4 tube steel with mounting holes drilled into the side.

The step seems to be sturdy enough. I thought I might need to add a cross piece between the 2 frames, but the bolts used to attached the step seem to be adequate. If the steps start to loosen over time, I may have to revisit the cross braces. Also, the length of the pipe will vary depending on your particular trailer.

Fred
 
A progress report:

Still working on "foundation" stuff, insulation (and more insulation...), rough wiring, cabinet supports, cutting holes for windows and correcting manufacturer's issues. I'll post a few pics.

The first is a wide shot from the rear ramp. The jacks are holding up the ceiling in the back where there's no roof beams to attach to. Eventually I'll have a couple of cabinets on either side of the trailer supporting the ceiling along with a box built around the rear ramp spring. You may also notice the sagging ceiling treatment (burlap). I tried using spray adhesive, but the glue just doesn't hold in our 'Vegas heat. A friend (who is very competent in this kind of stuff) recommended that I pull the burlap down, roll PVA white glue (like Elmers) on the ceiling, reapply the burlap and then roll the burlap into the glue with a dry roller. I'll let you know how that works. Any suggestions?

It's interesting to see evidence of the manufacturing process. Like in a couple of places they didn't drill holes for wire passages. Looks like the welder just burned a hole through the steel, then they put a gob of silicone around the wire for protection. So I drilled the holes clean and installed rubber grommets. I closed a few gaps in various places that you don't see until the plywood is removed. Also, they used long metal screws to attach the running lights on the fenders. I guess that's ok until you forget about them and cut your hand on some very sharp screw points while changing a tire. I removed the screws and attached the lights with rivets.

Well, hopefully it won't be too much longer when I can start on the fun stuff. But I think it's going to be a pretty tight cargo conversion when it's all done.

Be safe, be well.

Fred
Here's a followup after 5 1/2 years. The burlap covering the ceiling has held up perfectly - no sags, nothing coming loose - even in this 'Vegas heat. The PVA glue dried clear, so overall very happy with the outcome. FB
 
Here's a couple of pics of the added door latch. Super easy.... NOT! Like taking candy from a bulldog, LOL.

Fred
An update after 5 1/2 years. I've been pretty happy with the door latch, but getting a tight seal around the door and keeping the latch easy to operate has been a struggle. The door is not perfectly aligned with the trailer's frame. (No surprise there I suppose.) So if I add enough gasket material around the door for a good seal, the latch becomes difficult to catch. I've resorted to using different thicknesses of gasket, and things have improved, but I guess I'm hoping the door will seal up like a door in my house. Why am I so fussy about this? I drive a lot of desert roads to my favorite campsites, so dust is a huge concern. For the moment, I've resorted to stopping at the beginning of dusty roads, and with 2" painter's tape (the blue stuff) seal up the edges of the door before proceeding on. It works, but it's kind of a pain. FB
 

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