KC area newbie

Duder502

New Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2025
Posts
3
Location
Kansas city
I did a van build a couple years ago and hated being tethered to the camper all the time and the weight. I have been researching super light teardrops and squaredrops with particular interest in foam with PMF construction for passenger vehicle towing and storage ease.

I am currently weighing 3 main things:

1) Build or buy used? Needs to be inexpensive, not $5K+. This budget constraint has led me to focus on a DIY build. I am looking for a comfort upgrade from a tent or cot for camping, and inexpensive travel lodging for frequent overnight trips between KC and western NY over next 2 years.

2) If I go the DIY build or modify existing trailer route, can I get by with 1.5 inch XPS or should I stick to 2 inch XPS insulation throughout? I have been set on 2 inch thick everywhere (b/c of NY and upper midwest homebase), but wondering if I will notice any difference if I use 1.5inch for a 4x8 up to 5x10 build. 1.5inch saves floor space to get widest mattress possible in smallest trailer width possible.

3) I am not planning for a rear galley right now if I go DIY route. I'd like to be able to use the trailer for utility purposes too if at all possible. Either by having the camper pod be removable from trailer platform, or be able to use the empty cabin to haul boxes or DIY building materials. Even considering a single rear door or barn door to accommodate lumber that side door(s) likely won't accomodate.

Some particulars--
Tow vehicle is Subaru Outback
13"+ hwy rated tires reqd on trailer
Target wet weight <= 1500 pounds
I would like for my spouse or one child to be able to comfortably sleep with me while traveling, otherwise I would just go 4x8 without giving that another thought.

Game on!
 
I can't speak to foam construction. We used 3/4 inch foam insulation in the walls of our wood build (1/4 inch ply skins on either side with skeletonized 3/4 inch ply in the middle; foam filling the voids). Then 1 1/2 inches of insulation on the ceiling/roof. We've been all over the mid-west and northeast in the summer and that was plenty. I doubt more would be any better, since one needs air circulation (cracked or open windows) to take out the humidity from two humans.

We do have a combination AC/electric heater we use when we have shore power. Found the AC important in the mid-west in summer. Less so in western NY. Couple of times we didn't leave Upstate NY until mid-October and we used the heater, although warm blankets would have also worked.

Hope that's helpful.

Tom
 
can I get by with 1.5 inch XPS or should I stick to 2 inch XPS insulation throughout?

That's gross overkill in the walls, which will cause challenges with windows and doors.

I suggest 3/4" in the walls and floor, and 2" in the ceiling. It works great.

KpUg5sT.jpg


4ibzIOs.jpg


Even when it's freezing, you'll still need to have some ventilation in a teardrop.

Tony
 
That's gross overkill in the walls, which will cause challenges with windows and doors.

I suggest 3/4" in the walls and floor, and 2" in the ceiling. It works great.

KpUg5sT.jpg


4ibzIOs.jpg


Even when it's freezing, you'll still need to have some ventilation in a teardrop.

Tony
Great insight -- I was noticing that pre-made windows and doors are not compatible with such thick walls out of the box. Thanks!
 
I can't speak to foam construction. We used 3/4 inch foam insulation in the walls of our wood build (1/4 inch ply skins on either side with skeletonized 3/4 inch ply in the middle; foam filling the voids). Then 1 1/2 inches of insulation on the ceiling/roof. We've been all over the mid-west and northeast in the summer and that was plenty. I doubt more would be any better, since one needs air circulation (cracked or open windows) to take out the humidity from two humans.

We do have a combination AC/electric heater we use when we have shore power. Found the AC important in the mid-west in summer. Less so in western NY. Couple of times we didn't leave Upstate NY until mid-October and we used the heater, although warm blankets would have also worked.

Hope that's helpful.

Tom
Very helpful-- thanks Tom.
 
Welcome to the forum, Duder. The description of your goals and requirements matches my own quite a bit (down to the Outback TV.) My solution, briefly, is a clamshell TD, hybrid foam and plywood, on a Harbor Freight 4x8 trailer; two slideouts yielding 7.5 x 7.5 living space, 5'8" max headroom when open; interior kitchen coming this spring. I live in Shawnee, and I'd be happy to show it to you. Feel free to shoot me a PM-- check out the envelope icon in upper right.
 
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