Lifting roof XPStream - making improvements

[OP827]

today I've returned to frame works to address entry step as my folding design requires it to be permanent part of entry door. I am re-using original coleman trailer step, i had to cut it to fit for permanent place and need to add some more sheet metal on the sides to seal the compartment as it will be part of trailer interior space. I think it is going to work good and it could be the easiest and light weight solution, the sheet metal is light gauge and after my cutting the reinforcement happened to be just in a right place under the step area I will then put carpet on sides and maybe rubber on the step.

The big question is should it be permanently welded or should it be bolted/screwed??
in case it is damaged or bent, it will be easier to fix when it is bolted/screwed... any ideas ?

 

[OP827]

And this is the status of my build today: kitchen and sink island is almost there, all side wall sections are glued up in the back and stacked. After step is done I'll be doing dry fit to put the side walls on the plywood floor, do not know when yet.

 

[KCStudly]

Nice work.

On the step, it's hard to say w/o being there, but in general welding will be lighter, stronger and less fabrication to execute; whereas bolting is easier to disassemble.

My guess is that the step will likely not see enough harm to require removal (?) and if it were to take a bump or two, a welded assembly is likely to stand up better than a bolted one.

I guess you will have to weigh whether the bolted assembly improves the serviceability of the installation enough to warrant the extra effort, against your ability to repair a welded situation. My thoughts are that you can build it in the first place, so no matter what, you should be able to fix it if something gets damaged.

 

[OP827]

Thanks for your comments, KC. it is good to have another opinion on things.
You are right, I'll be able to fix it if I can build it. MIG weld is an easier and lighter option. So I'll go with the welds and will enforce it with a 1" square tube angled in front of the step so if it hits anything, the step will have a better chance to deflect and jump over whatever it is, like a curb for example. The trailer suppose to be light enough, I can even maybe do some calc for the forces , well.. not really, I'd rather stick to the well-known approach of "looks about right"

Cheers

Oleg

 

[OP827]

Cutting pieces to fit and welding the entry step today.

 

[wagondude]

Anyone knows how to change the name of the whole build thread with a new name?

Go back and edit the original post title to make it change for the whole thread.

 

[KCStudly]

Wagondude is right.

To clarify, it will change it for the first post; where the thread shows up in the index and "view your posts" list; and will become the default for new posts (that can still be overwritten individually, I think); but it does not change any other existing post. Those would have to be edited by the OP'er.

 

[OP827]

Thanks for the thread title tips, Wagondude and KC.

 

[OP827]

Fitting the step out of old step and pieces was ... ..., but I am done now. Next is to finish the welding, then brushing, priming and painting.

Question: should I be concerned with welding the step to the main frame to avoid distortion? How best do it, any advise? There is a length of welding I need to do on the frame to fix back of the step to the main frame.

And this is the weld location that mentioned in the question above. The main frame beam section is 3"Hx1.5"Wx0.1"WT approximately. The sketch below shows where the weld is in relation to the frame beam.

 

[KCStudly]

An option to a full length weld would be to stitch weld it, say 1 inch long beads every 3 or 4 inches, then you could use paintable seam sealer on it to seal it up.

 

[OP827]

An option to a full length weld would be to stitch weld it, say 1 inch long beads every 3 or 4 inches, then you could use paintable seam sealer on it to seal it up.

Thanks KC. I'll do just that

 

[OP827]

The step is finished and coated, paint is drying in cool albertan afternoon sun, waiting to be welded to the frame.

 

[OP827]

Tonight i welded the step in place. "Milestep" achieved !

 

[OP827]

I need to have two identical wall panels in front of the trailer with curved foam so I made these custom brackets/clamps out of scraps for their glueups. The photos show dry fit, quite happy with them. They will just "click in place after I put glue in the kerfs. Looks like a wing section . I am thinking to use Great Stuff for the kerfs as a glue, it should make for a strong curved panel and fill the kerfs good.
My progress is quite slow, I only have an hour or so a day to work on the trailer so far..

 

[KCStudly]

Neat!

 

[OP827]

Thanks KC.

I went ahead and glued up first panel this afternoon using this new method. Will keep it clamped at least until tomorrow, hope it will be enough time for foam glue to set w/o issues

Scotch tape to reduce sanding the foam after glueup

Clamped or rather "clicked" in place, the fastest clamps on earth

Nice and straight

Now the part will have to wait for the glue to cure. ... OK, but only one cup and back to other things to do.

 

[OP827]

It is impressive how easy the scotch and foam squeeze out pealed off and left NOTHING for sanding, WOW

Is that a good candidate for FOAMIES FORUM separate article or even maybe a sticky ?
I did not see such packing tape trick used here before, but i did not read that BIG foamies thread yet.

 

[KCStudly]

Looks like packing tape is a real winner! I used blue tape on butt joints but it was nowhere near as effective.

Looks like you have to use a bunch of tape, tho. Did you put it on in the flat and slit away at the kerf's or... ?

 

[OP827]

I wish I put the tape on foam before the kerf were cut (next time I'll do that), but this idea with packing tape came later.

So to make it work I first put the panel in the clapms so that the kerfs will close and then put the tape. Then cut the tape along the kerfs with sharp blade. Then removed the clamps, put glue in the kerfs, clamped back, waited for glue to cure, pealed off the tape, did a photo .

As for hjow much tape used, I would say not much and it is well worth it. I spent so much time sanding and busted sand paper last time I di this glueup with other panel, so the tape is a way to go and it is more economical overall for me.

 

[OP827]

Second curved panel glued up and clamped this morning, easy and fast, thanks to below described trick.

Previously it was difficult for me to put Great Stuff inside each kerf in a clean way and right amount.. suspect I am not alone as all I heard here is that GS is very messy.

Then I found that if i take of the plastic tube and run this can tip inside the groove, this difficult process becomes a very easy and FAST which is more important on a bigger amount of kerfs to fill, the kerfs are now fully filled with GS, making for a stronger panel and with a right amount of squeeze out, no mess. groove on! I like foam, it's fun