NE Wisco Woodie Benroy #2

[TimC-TNT]

I haven't really finished #1 (do you ever really finish) and I got the bug to build #2. I am either going to sell #2 or rent it out to local folks. Anyway...

#1 on a recent trip to Twelve Mile Beach at Pictured Rocks National Seashore

Under way on #2... started with the Northern tool Ironton 5x8 (1980# capy) and will make a few modifications. I moved the axle to 40% from the rear of the frame. That only required drilling 6 holes for the spring brackets. Two of the existing holes were used which put the axle within an eighth inch of 40%. Then it will have the axle slung over the springs to keep the height of the bed lower. Then I have upgraded the wheels to 13" (ST175 80D13 LRC from Pepboys). I could have gotten the wheels about $30 cheaper, but, I wanted a "good" Kenda tire.

Assembly went very smooth. All bolt holes lined up and it was easy to square everything along the way. The biggest challenge was doing the measurement from the wheels to the coupler. Where to measure to/from. Oh well, I did several measurements from various points and came within 1/8" each time. I choose to locktite (242) every bolt even though they all had locknuts. The locktite will reduce corrosion acting as an anti-seize compound.

To accomplish the axle over spring I reversed the spring bolt. It was a simple task... clamp the spring in a bench vise, clamp the spring leaves as well, loosen bolt and reverse the bolt direction. All that clamping was overkill. It was the first time I've done something like this and didn't want to take a chance of the springs coming unsprung. The bolt fell out after a light tap. Locktite finished up that task. I thought it odd that said bolt didn't have a locknut or locktite on it before I started.

Next post is a couple of issues/questions I need to resolve...

 

[TimC-TNT]

Working to resolve a couple of issues with the NT Ironton Trailer modifications I made...

With the spring over the axle it is up-side-down. There is no bend to the axle, it is just straight. The axle being a u-channel it will now collect water and debris. To remedy this I am thinking of putting a very good quality tape over the axle to eliminate most of the chance of crap settling there. I want to drill at least two weep holes for drains. I don't know what size holes will not compromise the strength of the axle. I'm thinking a couple 1/4" holes a couple inches in from the axle pin wouldn't hurt?

Update... No responses to this question so I asked a friend with experience with trailer builds. A 1/4" weep hole next to the axle spindle won't hurt a thing, so, my plan is to drill weep holes and then cover the majority of the open top of the axle tubing with a good quality tape that should stand up to quite a bit of weather.

Up grading to 13" (175R80) wheels/tires is very doable on this trailer, however, the clearance of the tire from the bolt head of the front spring eye is very close; about 1/4". I have good clearance for the side walls of the TD as I want to mount fenders to the side walls anyway. I'm considering adding a 1/4" hub spacer to each hub to bring the tire out another 1/4". I have about 1/2" of lug thread showing and I don't think the additional spread of a total of 1/2" will compromise handling or strength of the trailer. Anyone here use spacers? I have no experience with them. The ones I am considering are just an aluminum billet type that slips on before the wheel. Aluminum between steel hubs and wheels is not a great combination, but, I think it would be OK if I greased up the billet before installation.

Update... also no responses to spacer question, so, I talked to a friend with hub spacer experience and he told me to not worry about any problems adding up to 1/2" spacers to my application seeing as my weight will likely be considerably less than designed capacity.

Finished trailer frame (sans wheel hub spacers)...

 

[TimC-TNT]

Recovered $75 of my trailer purchase by craigslisting the original 5.3 x 12 wheels/tires. So, half my cost of the new 13" wheels is now back in my checkbook. That's the nice thing about the 12" wheels on the NT trailer. They are a size that is very much in demand, so, easy to turn them into cash.

 

[les45-JAY]

Have you considered filling the axle with spray foam type insulation (comes in a small spray can) and then coating the top with Henry's or some type of roof coating. I've used that kind of spray foam to seal penetrations in walls and it is totally waterproof. It will expand when you spray it so you will have to screed across the top with a straight edge to level it with the top edge of your axle.

 

[TimC-TNT]

Have you considered filling the axle with spray foam type insulation (comes in a small spray can) and then coating the top with Henry's or some type of roof coating. I've used that kind of spray foam to seal penetrations in walls and it is totally waterproof. It will expand when you spray it so you will have to screed across the top with a straight edge to level it with the top edge of your axle.

Wow, no, I never thought of that. Thanks. That should eliminate any need for weep holes. I think I have an old can of Great Stuff in the basement.

Another brilliant idea coming from this forum! I think I owe Mike another donation...

Tim

 

[QueticoBill]

Help me out. Just ordered this trailer and plan similar modifications. Is it necessary to reverse springs? And why not mount axel channel up (open down)?

Thanks.

 

[TimC-TNT]

Help me out. Just ordered this trailer and plan similar modifications. Is it necessary to reverse springs? And why not mount axel channel up (open down)?

Thanks.

The springs aren't reversed, but, they are mounted under the axle to lower the bed of the trailer. In that configuration the center bolt on the spring needs to be turned around so the bolt "tab" sits in the depression in the axle channel. The axle channel is a U channel and only has the hole for said tab on one side of the channel. Thus needing to flip the channel. It is not necessary to do any of this, I just like being able to sit on the edge of the cabin door and have my feet on the ground. I wouldn't recommend doing this if your trailer is anywhere within about 300# of capacity after your build is done and stuff loaded. I won't go into the whys of this caution unless you request that info (boring non-engineer type theories). My build is 1300#, so I have over 500# "cushion". If you want I can measure mine and let you know what the trailer bed height is after doing the mod. Take a close look at the photos in this thread. I think you'll see what I mean about the axle channel orientation. I can provide more photos or information if needed.

I haven't made any progress on the build since my last post and photos. Life happens and plans change. I will be focusing on it in the next month or so and through the winter. I hope to have the walls built complete with doors in my basement and then the floor designed and installed before the weather becomes suitable for working in an unheated space. That's probably early April around here. I don't have a finish date in mind. Probably early summer.

 

[QueticoBill]

I pick up my "kit" week after next and probably it will be self evident. Thank you - good explanation.

Next I have to struggle with the walls on top versus outside of frame. I like the lower look - using the new cub design as a basis - but thinking about tires and sides and extending axles and the stress on the axles that are not cantilevered further versus trying to get away with wheel spacers - which probably put as much bending stress on the axle. I'd rather not replace entire axle; not sure how much I can or should depend on not being a max load.

 

[TimC-TNT]

I pick up my "kit" week after next and probably it will be self evident. Thank you - good explanation.

Next I have to struggle with the walls on top versus outside of frame. I like the lower look - using the new cub design as a basis - but thinking about tires and sides and extending axles and the stress on the axles that are not cantilevered further versus trying to get away with wheel spacers - which probably put as much bending stress on the axle. I'd rather not replace entire axle; not sure how much I can or should depend on not being a max load.

I wish I could help you with the weight forecast/prediction, but I would only be able to offer suggestions which are based on just one TD. On my first TD I had the custom trailer overbuilt to allow for rookie decisions about saving weight in the design. I don't know how much more that trailer weighed vs the NT trailer before I started. I suspect it was probably 20% heavier??? That's a guess, I haven't weighed the NT trailer yet either. TD #1's frame is 2x2x1/8 tubing and a 2x3x1/8 tubing V tongue vs the C channel of unknown gauge on the NT trailer (unknown at least to me). Cabin cabinets on TD #1 are red oak (dense) and galley is white cedar (lighter). I didn't pay particular attention to material weight in the structure. I actually "upgraded" to treated 2x2 spars in the roof vs the Generic Benroy design with SPF 1x2s. My hatch hinge area is two 2x2s sandwiched together instead of two 1x2s which I think the generic plan suggests. I always seem to overbuild, so don't take that as a criticism of the Generic Benroy. I'm sure it is plenty strong.

I can't help with the aesthetic judgement on the wall hanging/sitting area. Though I think you could always add a trim piece after the initial build to lower the look. Not sure that's what you mean though.

I added the 5mm spacers only because the front spring mounting bolt was real close to the tire. In the remote possibility I am cornering and I hit a huge pothole at the wrong time I could see the bolt head slicing the sidewall of the tire. I had another option of grinding down those two bolt heads, but, that would require partial disassembly and the $11 spacer set was a simple solution.

Good luck and take your time. The fun is in the journey, both the build journey and the trips down the road with it...

 

[QueticoBill]

Thanks.

I keep thinking about this a whether extending axle (probably splice in center); adding spacers; or narrowing the frame, the forces from the cantilevered axel beyond the spring attachment are the same. Not sure it matters. Well, kit isn't here yet so I'll keep pondering, searching here, and decide which mechanical designer to reach out to.

 

[TimC-TNT]

Back to Teardrop #2 build. I took a break last fall after getting the NT trailer assembled and starting my side wall skeletons. Garage is un-insulated/un-heated.

I bought the A-frame coupler from etrailer (CA-5210- after being assured that it would fit the angle of the NT trailer. Umm, no, not a chance. For now I'm going to stick with the coupler that it came with. I hope to eventually install it and cut and redrill mounting holes on the tongue frame and trailer frame. Right now I don't want to think about all the work that that will require.

Started the floor. 1/2" ply bottom, 2x3 framing and 1/2" top. Rigid foam Insulation. PL Premium and screws to hold sandwich together. Photo doesn't show the 1/2" ply top installed.

Next task
Will seal the bottom of the floor with Plastic roofing tar. Then put it out in the sun for a day or two to harden up a bit. I had good success with that on TD #1.
Sheet the wall skeletons on the interior side. Decided to not run any wiring inside the side walls. I really don't like the porch light location on TD#1. This one will have a couple small LED strips under the frame near the front and rear corners for a night light effect.

 

[QueticoBill]

You're progressing. Better than I can say. Looks good.

After a lot of thought I've decided I'll drill a "divot" in the axle pegs so I don't have channel legs up.

I probably will put off tire upgrade for now.

Best wishes.

 

[TimC-TNT]

After a lot of thought I've decided I'll drill a "divot" in the axle pegs so I don't have channel legs up.

Best wishes.

QBill, Thanks for the thoughts. I'm determined to get this TD done in a couple months. I'll need that luck!

I'm thinking those axle pins may be hardened steel. Might be a job to drill. Ask an expert... I'm just assuming. I once tried to drill into some conical bearings from a very large industrial pump (10 ton variety). I found out that nothing I had could even scratch those bearings.

 

[QueticoBill]

If that's the case, I'll get a pair of small 3/16" plates, drill, and weld those on the channel. Always a back up plan.

 

[TimC-TNT]

If that's the case, I'll get a pair of small 3/16" plates, drill, and weld those on the channel. Always a back up plan.

Now that's a good solution if you can't drill.

 

[TimC-TNT]

I came up with a plan which should solve my modification problem on my NT 5x8 trailer tongue. I bought the etrailer A-frame coupler which does not fit the angle of my NT tongue. Rather than reworking the tongue to fit the coupler and drilling different mounting points on the trailer frame I am going to use the method posted by 101camper. All credit goes to Denise (aka 101camper) from a post she submitted in August 2011 ( http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=45830&p=857544 ). It is a simple but genius solution to add a stable jack to the NT trailer. A simple template from cardboard to my local welding/fab shop should produce a very good mounting point for my Pro jack (same as pictured in Denise's photo. When I get that mounted I will add a photo.

Here is her photo from her post...

Please, if this is not acceptable to post her photo let me know and I will remove it. I am giving full credit to Denise on this idea...

 

[TimC-TNT]

Floor and wall progress...

Floor bottom sealed

Floor right side up

Close-up of method to deal with NT trailer bolt heads

Walls with exterior ply rough cut. Need to be routed flush after some repair to the profile after my router slipped under the template when routing. No significance to the black 1x lumber. Recycling some old cedar trim which came off a remodel job.

Next up... Rip roof spars, finish interior of walls with insulation and Wiley window frame backing, wire for clearance lights then complete sandwich with interior plywood.

 

[TimC-TNT]

Just had a reminder to slow down and think before I cut. I bought BCX (sanded one side) ply and was cutting out a rough fit for my inside walls and forgot that I needed to match the second one as a mirror image. Now I have one interior wall with a nice surface to finish and a "C" side on the other wall. Oh well, I've made bigger mistakes. $16 wasted and a 110 mile round trip to pick up another sheet. Fortunately I decided it was a good time to order my 1/8" lauan for my ceiling/roof sheathing so it won't be an additional trip. I have plenty of other tasks to work on while I wait the ten days for my lauan to ship form Eau Claire to Escanaba!

 

[KCStudly]

I'm sorry, it's my fault. Yesterday I almost posted to remind you to be sure to make opposite hand parts, but I figured, nah, that's too easy, he doesn't need to be reminded. It is so easy to 'just make two' and forget to flip for the mirror image.

 

[TimC-TNT]

I'm sorry, it's my fault. Yesterday I almost posted to remind you to be sure to make opposite hand parts, but I figured, nah, that's too easy, he doesn't need to be reminded. It is so easy to 'just make two' and forget to flip for the mirror image.

Thanks KC... How'd you know I was looking for someone to blame?

I'm definitely open to reminders. Won't hurt my feelings one bit! I do the S. Fredrick inside out method and wanted to rough out the interior skin to eliminate as much material I could so routing out the rabbit/dado (whatever it's called) would not be so stressful on my router. It's actually a good thing it happened. I took the time this morning to sit back and go through my next steps to avoid making too many mistakes and be a little more efficient.

Insulation installed and wire troughs cut for clearance lights and porch light switch. My clearance light wiring as well as all navigation lighting is strung through the roof instead of along the trailer frame. The brake lights are mounted in the hatch, so, as long as I'm going through the hinge area on the hatch I might as well continue through the roof spars to the tongue.

More for the benefit of those who said "What?" in reference to what I was trying to accomplish above, roughing out the interior skin so I wouldn't have to stress the router as much. I'll be routing the inside-out dado into the framing about 1/4". The pencil mark is the finished depth. That's 3/8" interior plywood skin plus the 1/4" into the frame for a total of 5/8" leaving about 7/8" of meat on the wall to attach spars and roof sheathing.
The void on the bottom edge of my wall shown in this view will be filled with 3/8" BCX, same as the rest of the wall. My wall height is 54" requiring a splice on the bottom of my walls to finish them off. The seam is hidden by the mattress when installed.