Newbie builds a foam toy hauler/camper

[Pmullen503]

Weatherproofing a roll up door could be a challenge. I've considered it for the back door.

 

[Pmullen503]

Here's a shot of the hatch showing the canvas on the inside. Still oversized so I'll cut it down and round over the outside edge to prepare for canvassing. Even now it's very stiff.

 

[Pmullen503]

Hatch trimmed and covered with canvas. Fit is good!

 

[GPW]

Looks GOOD !!!

 

[Pmullen503]

I started working on the doors. I built a frame of 1" wood to fit the opening and then glued the exterior skin to it. After trimming it flush with a router, I cut the window opening with a template and template attachment for the router base.

Next, I added additional blocking for the handles and hinges and filled the spaces with insulation. I glued on the exterior skins and routed them flush with the edges.

I cut the mortises for the door handles. I used ""Junior" Locking Stainless Steel Flush Door Latch with Inside Release" from Etrailer. http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Redline/L1833.html

I used the flush trimming bit to cut out the inside window openings and made the parts for the Wiley windows. I won't glue them in until I canvas the doors.

I had left the corners square for the side door to make measuring easier. Now I trimmed them to fit the opening. The doors are ready to canvas.

 

[KCStudly]

Nice. Looks good.

 

[rowerwet]

 

[GPW]

A substantial Door for sure ...

 

[Pmullen503]

I made the stiles in the side door wide to simplify the door construction. They are wide enough to mortise in the handle, support the hinges and the sides of the Wiley window. The rounded corners also benefit from the wider stiles.

The big back door actually has lighter framing with blocks to support the hinges and the handle mortise.

 

[Pmullen503]

Here's the trailer set for it's maiden voyage. I'm heading up to Itasca state park region for some fishing and canoeing with my buddies. Still a lot of details to finish but it's towable.

 

[Pmullen503]

Some details. I underestimated the thickness of two layers of canvas, glue and paint so the side door is really tight. In fact, I had to sand down the canvas in places to get it to fit. Inside, the flange has 3/8" x 3/4" sticky back neoprene foam weather stripping. The door closes with a satisfying "thunk". However the tight gap means that it holds moisture between the door and sill at the bottom. I may have to remove the door and plane off a 1/4" or so and recanvas the bottom to get a gap big enough for water to drain properly.

The Yakima rack mounts are 1 x 2 x 1/8" aluminum box channel that I cut to make "J" channels. Yakima wanted too much for bolt on side mounts! As it turned out I had just enough space to mount everything. I didn't have an 1/8" to spare. I didn't measure everything in the planning stage so I could have had real problems. Sometimes you just get lucky.

The back barn door has several issues. I made it smaller to fit after the trouble I had with the side door. But the weight of it causes the box to rack a bit. I added a "ramp" of UHWPE screwed to the step to lift the door as it closes. It fits fine but I didn't figure out the hinges properly so I have to swing it 180 degrees to get the slide out RC airplane racks out. I'll need to fix that.

The Wiley windows worked great. We had a couple hours of heavy rain the other night and they didn't leak a drop inside.

I added some D-rings lagged to the floor (that was the reason for the heavy framing in the platform.)

 

[GPW]

It looks SUPER !!!! There’s always some “adjusting” to do later , or adding on more things ... That’s Great FUN !!!

 

[GoTurtleGo]

It looks great. Nice work! Every foamie build teaches me something new so thanks for posting all this.

 

[Fred Trout]

Nice job ! I am jealous - still have a ways to go before mine gets camping.

 

[KCStudly]

 

[Pmullen503]

Took the trailer out for it's maiden voyage. About a 1200 mile trip to northern MN. I drove through rain for about 5 hours and was pleased with the water tightness. Unfortunately both doors were tight afterwards. I'll have to take both off and rework them to have larger gaps. I found it easier to get in and out of the large back door rather than the side door. I've pretty much decided to build a pair of lightweight foam barn doors for the back. The current single door is too heavy and too big.

The Yakima racks served nicely as places to tie an awning to and for a clothes line. I'm thinking of adding running boards along the side to have something to stand on while tying down the boats on top.

Sleeping in it was better than a tent I must admit. It was quieter and darker in the morning and no setting up a tent in the rain. I had a 4" foam mattress along too which was more comfortable than sleeping on the ground.

I was monitoring the mileage along the way and figured I got 5-15% worse mileage. The weird thing is the best configuration was with boats on the trailer (I also tried them on the van instead) and 70 mph rather than 55 mph! I drove a mix of interstate and secondary roads and consistently got as good or better mileage at 70 mph than at 55 mph with the same configuration. Don't know what to make of that, drag is supposed to go up with the cube of the velocity.

Anyway, a good trip and it was nice to have something to carry all the gear.

 

[GPW]

Thanks for that !!! We need to know the Facts !!! Glad you had a good Foamie experience ... “ Sleeping in it was better than a tent I must admit. It was quieter and darker in the morning and no setting up a tent in the rain “ ... The prime directive , comfort and convenience !!!

And yet PROOF again that a Foamie can be towed @ 70Mph and not “implode” ... ...Well Done PM !!!

 

[Pmullen503]

No problems with the strength of the shell. The box shape could be more rigid, however. I was thinking for V2.0 I might introduce some gentle curves to the sides and top (no kerfing required.) That would probably stiffen things up considerably. As it is, going to a pair of lighter back doors instead of a single big door should eliminate that issue. Just have to decide what to do about windows.

I neglected to mention that I didn't have time to add hard structure to screw in the stops for the back door and a fold down table under the hatch. I used those plastic screw-in drywall anchors instead, the kind with the deep threads. That worked surprisingly well. The canvas skin provides excellent shear strength to the fastening. You do have to make sure the holes in whatever you bolt to foam sides lines up with the fasteners. I drilled holes in the parts first and used the drilled parts to mark the locations of the drywall anchors. They happen to be short enough to go into 2" foam without coming through the other side.

 

[mikeschn]

I found in a simple backyard test, that I could easily bend 2" EPS 16" over 6' of length. (no kerfs) That might be a starting point for build 2!

Mike...

 

[Pmullen503]

There are many camper shapes that I think could be done by bending most of the roof. Maybe just kerf the ends or use multiple layers of thinner foam bent and laminated to get tighter curves.

If I do another trailer just for camping rather than hauling stuff, I'd have many more choices of profile.