Northern Lite Traveler

[alaska teardrop]

• You're welcome Terry,

• You're right on the amount of space it takes up. There's two in the shop now & room for a third, but I can only use one at a time! So, I'd like to sell one or the other.

• Also, size & the fact that so much of the work is done on the bench, makes it convenient for an old man with a worn out back.

• Yes & yes. 525#. The specs are in the first post.

• Fred

 

[S. Heisley]

Very, very nice. ...Top notch!

 

[alaska teardrop]

• Thank you Sharon,

• Compliments from an obviously thoughtful & accomplishing builder are most welcome.

• Fred

 

[Shadow Catcher]

A good example of what I have been saying for a long time, you are building an aircraft not a tank. What is the final weight?

 

[Greg M-TNT]

525 lbs Shadow Catcher.

 

[Prem-TNT]

Fred,

Really clean, professional work.

What are you going to build next?

Did you see my Round Tail trailer on this forum? It was an experiment. It tows like a dream with no loss in fuel efficiency over non-towing behind a pickup with a canopy/camper shell! You're the guy who could improve on it. The tail cone could swing open like a pantry/galley.

My 2 cents.

Best wishes,

Prem

 

[alaska teardrop]

Fred,

Really clean, professional work.

What are you going to build next?

Did you see my Round Tail trailer on this forum? It was an experiment. It tows like a dream with no loss in fuel efficiency over non-towing behind a pickup with a canopy/camper shell! You're the guy who could improve on it. The tail cone could swing open like a pantry/galley.

My 2 cents.

Best wishes,

Prem

• Thankyou Prem,

• I am currently building a trailer for forum member, Stacie Tamaki. It is of her own design using my construction methods. Stacie blogs about her trailer here: http://theflirtyguide.blogspot.com/sear ... 0-%20Build

• I remember your Roundtail because of the innovation & had saved pictures of it. A stand-up trailer may be in my future also.

• Fred

 

[Prem-TNT]

Fred,

NICE shop!

Did you bend that 1" square tube round with a mandrel or by heating it with a torch and working it to shape?

I built two rigs with 1" square tube, but I used exhaust pipe bent on a hydraulic mandrel for the curves. One of them was a 35' bus conversion with a raised roof and one a chassis-mounted jumbo camper on a 1-ton Chevy with dual rear wheels. With a mig welder it went fast. With a band saw instead of the chop saw, it went way quieter.

I'm not kidding about the aerodynamics of that Round Tail trailer. It amazed me that a tall, short standie suffered no loss in MPG over not towing it.

It's as important how the aft airflow gets put back together (laminar) as how it gets parted forward. But since the tow vehicle does almost all of the parting of the air forward, the aft flow is the trailer's responsibility. A stubby airplane wing cross section is ideal for a trailer IF one does a lot of miles. I applied that stubby shape both to the sides and to the top and bottom of the trailer. Were I to do it over, I'd probably put an aluminum belly pan under it like Airstreams have, at least between the wheels from the front to the back.

I'm currently towing the worst of all trailers for airflow: a flat-back cargo trailer. The Air Tabs help a bit. http://www.airtabs.com/main.html and http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=964&image_id=51602

Prem

 

[AlgoDan]

Hi! I am new here. Have seen your build and must say I like it alot. It is similar to what I am building, but you have done a professional job for sure...

 

[alaska teardrop]

• Prem,

• The Northern Lite uses 1" sq. aluminum tube cold formed around a wooden buck as described in a previous post.

• Stacies' trailer has 3/4" steel tube formed all in one piece using a torch around jigs on the welding table. I've considered buying square dies for a ring bender. However, butt welding circles together accurately would seem just as tedious as the torch method. I have visions of hydraulic pressured die wheels that would follow around any given shape laid out on the table. Maybe someday.

• Fred

 

[alaska teardrop]

• Hi Dan,

• Glad to meet you.

• Looks like you're doing a mighty fine job of building a trailer yourself!

• More beer

• Fred

 

[AlgoDan]

Hi Fred, Thanks for the compliment. Without this forum and great builds people have done here, I don't think I would have done a build....
Cheers
Dan

• Hi Dan,

• Glad to meet you.

• Looks like you're doing a mighty fine job of building a trailer yourself!

• More beer

• Fred

 

[Prem-TNT]

 

[amblt]

This is amazing. Do you expect any trouble with galvanic action between the aluminum structure and the steel frame? I only browsed through quickly- I may have missed something.

Thanks

 

[alaska teardrop]

This is amazing. Do you expect any trouble with galvanic action between the aluminum structure and the steel frame? I only browsed through quickly- I may have missed something.

Thanks

• Thanks. Good question. No, I don't expect galvanic corrosion in this trailer to be an issue at all. Strength & durability are two of the reasons to build this way.

• Here is a Anodic index: http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

• Steel has a value of .85v. The aluminum used in this trailer has a value of either .90v or .95v for a total difference of .10v. That's below the acceptable difference of .15v for outdoor use.

• To prevent moisture intrusion the steel tubes for the cabin floor are welded closed. The entire steel chassis is sand blasted, acid dipped & powder coated. The VHB tape not only acts as an adhesive & seal but separates the aluminum from the powder coated steel. The only direct contact between the metals are the rivets.

• The rivets are 3/16" closed end aluminum structural rivets. Closed end rivets won't leak through the center. They make an exceptionally strong seal to close off the rivet hole. 840# tensile strength. About the same as a #10 plated machine screw & more than a stainless steel screw.

• In addition, the interior cabin has a complete vapor barrier to prevent interior moisture from entering the wall, ceiling & floor.

• Hope that answers your question.

• So, my turn. Who, what & where are you? Are you building or looking to buy? The Northern Lite Traveler is for sale BTW. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=52370

• Fred

 

[aggie79-HILO]

Fred,
Every time I look at this build, I'm amazed. I've tried to soak in the details of your design, and have an okay grasp of what material or technique you used. The one thing that I haven't figured out is the "trim" where the roof and sidewall meet. From your description of the interior ceiling, I'm thinking the exterior "trim" may be a "U" shaped trim applied over the sidewall aluminum before riveting with the aluminum roof skin overlapping this. Could you tell please if I'm anywhere near correct?
Thank you,
Tom

 

[alaska teardrop]

• Thanks Tom,

• The trim is an automotive type lip guard made by TrimLok. It self adheres over the top of the roof rivets.
  • 
  • Edit to add link: http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Lip-Guard/P ... rd_82.aspx
  • Fred

 

[aggie79-HILO]

Thank you Fred!

That trim looks like it will solve a lot of issues. I need to visit the TrimLok site.

Take care,
Tom

 

[The Longs]

Hey Fred,

I apologize if this has already been covered but what type of rivets are you using to fasten the sheet to the frame? Im in the process of building an all steel tear and love the way the rivets look.

Thanks!

 

[alaska teardrop]

Hi The Longs,
I use 3/16" Aluminum Dome Head Closed End Structural rivets with Steel Mandrel. The length depends on the material thickness. I use them because they don't leak through the center, high tensile strength and the mandrel nail always breaks off out of sight, leaving the bulb in place to help maintain the tensile strength. Recommend using a pneumatic riveter.
A source would be your local industrial supplier such as Fastenal.
Example link to rivets: http://www.hansonrivet.com/closed-end-blind-rivets.htm
Fred