Offroad stabilizers

Silvrzuki77

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Posts
243
Any suggestions on leg stabilizers for offroad? I known i can modify a set but what are you guys runnin? The bottomn of my frame is 24".
 
lol no, but since its my first build maybe???? looks like im on my own for this one.
 
DSCN0018.jpg

You could do this
2012-10-13_10-51-44_4.jpg

Or this. Depends on what you are looking for.
Jeff
 
I did not bother. With enough weight on the tongue and the use of leveling blocks under which ever wheel is lower. I am a fan of parts left out don't go wrong and don't weigh anything.
 
Thanks guys for the comment. I like that second picture. Im thinkin I might wait and so how it works and go from there.
 
Silvrzuki77- I also like the second photo stabilizer set-up from Taco Jeff...looks really durable, as does the first one. But in my case, I wanted to be able to use easily replaceable parts and be strictly bolt-on. I came up with this idea (which I later found had already been done before, drats, on some off-road forum). Simple, fast to make and deploy, realatively cheap, and should be able to hold 600lbs on each leg-per Harbor Freight (I've already tested it by using the tongue jack to lift the wheels off the ground, then putting 500+lbs on the rear). Harbor Freight pipe clamp stabilizer Use the right side part (as pictured) only, save the rest for future use? Get 3/4" diameter threaded iron pipe, end caps, and round feet (stanchions?). I used 30" long pieces (use longer if needed, for taller trailers). Use 1/4" bolts (and washers, and locknuts) to fit thru already drilled holes in clamps (refer to gallery photos of my trailer); grade 2 will be strong enough, I would've preferred grade 5 or 8, but didn't find any long enough. Use clamp to mark spots to drill 2 holes thru trailer frame, drill , then test fit clamp piece to dtermine lenghth of bolts needed.On workbench, insert pipe thru clamp, loctite on cap and feet (if you want to be able to remove the foot and completely withdraw the pipe for ground clearance while travelling, just screw it on w/o the locktite). Then, drill a hole thru pipe in the raised position to insert a locking pin to hold up for travel. Take assembly and mount to trailer. When you lift up on clamp relaese, the pipes will slide down to the ground, and when you let go of the release, you won't be able to raise the pipe. To raise the pipe, use the release and lift the pipe to travelling postion. Insert the safety pin. There you go!
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Wow some awesome ideas :thumbsup: on here I might have to borrow one or two :twisted: awesome photos :pictures: now for that picture number two how'd they do that? :NC
 
Thanks guys for the great ideas. Stomper thats what i was looking for. Something that tucks up and hidden. Oh by the way your build was what got me going on this! Soo thanks! I think lol
 
Taco Jeff said:
DSCN0018.jpg

Jeff[/quote

Jeff could I get some more information on this setup please as it looks like it might be the best idea for my trailer as I'm going to have some considerable ground clearance
 
droid_ca":tpmbd2mp said:
....more information on this setup please as it looks like it might be the best idea for my trailer as I'm going to have some considerable ground clearance

How far off the ground is your frame? I have no problem lifting my tires 6" off the ground and I have about 23" to the bottom of my frame. The long BAL stab jacks are pretty nice.
 
stomperxj":17e27kw1 said:
How far off the ground is your frame? I have no problem lifting my tires 6" off the ground and I have about 23" to the bottom of my frame. The long BAL stab jacks are pretty nice.

well that sounds like they should work do you have a part number for them or what they are called exactly so i can look into them...Yhanks
 
droid_ca":3mwdtgkv said:
stomperxj":3mwdtgkv said:
How far off the ground is your frame? I have no problem lifting my tires 6" off the ground and I have about 23" to the bottom of my frame. The long BAL stab jacks are pretty nice.

well that sounds like they should work do you have a part number for them or what they are called exactly so i can look into them...Yhanks

I used the #23228 28" model but they make one step longer than that...

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consum ... jack.shtml

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Hope that helps
Jess
 
droid_ca":1dcxf1l2 said:
stomperxj How big are your tires on that as I'm looking at 33s

I am running 31's in a spring over axle configuration. Frame height is approx 23" empty and I can lift the tires off the ground pretty close to 6". Your tires would effectively put your frame 1" taller than that (30.7" tire vs 32.7" tire... 2" height dif divided by 2) so the longest BAL jacks they sell would surely work I would think... and you could always mount them lower on the frame by an inch since they are so low profile when in the travel position...
 
I like that motorized unit that they have for them just thinking that it might be good for other things as well like possibly a slide out or something but I might go with a airbag on my suspension as well still debating my friend has lots of stuff at his place so we are going to start and pick through some of the treasures...Thanks again for the info
 
droid_ca":1hzv7k2j said:
stomperxj":1hzv7k2j said:
How far off the ground is your frame? I have no problem lifting my tires 6" off the ground and I have about 23" to the bottom of my frame. The long BAL stab jacks are pretty nice.

well that sounds like they should work do you have a part number for them or what they are called exactly so i can look into them...Yhanks

http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consum ... jack.shtml
 

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