Painted/epoxied countertops?

[Felix_Esq]

I see formica and tile countertops all over this website. I have a question for y'all.

I used 3/4 inch plywood for the cabinets in my galley. It seems quite robust.

I was wondering: have any of you used a coat or three of alkyd/acrylic paint, or put a layer of epoxy/polymer/polyurethane/polycrylic coatings, right on top of (stained or painted) plywood to make a work surface? The counter I would be painting or coating would be taking less of the beating, because it is not the work surface for most stuff.

You guys are a huge help. Thank you in advance for any input!

-Felix

 

[TimC-TNT]

I glued up a 3/4" panel of cedar and oiled the **** out of it to keep water from penetrating. Cedar is soft and it has a few dents over the years but it is sure nice looking. I use a bamboo cutting board and really don't abuse the countertop much. I've oiled it maybe once since installing it.

A photo just after the galley was "finished" and before she was road worthy.

 

[S. Heisley]

I made a kraft paper floor using polyurethane. It's been down and walked on with shoes for about 10 years now and still looks fairly decent. As with Formica laminates, I think a hot pan could do damage to your countertop but...Go for it! Some of the older bars have had tops made like that, too. Paint might lift but those "leaves" are stained kraft paper and glued down with polyurethane, under the top coats of polyurethane, so yes, you can stain your wood. I used the Minwax polyurethane that is a water-based, oil modified mixture (gold and blue label). Easy clean-up; tough product. I'd suggest putting on 6 coats of the polyurethane and then don't sit anything on the counter for at least 7 days. I forget the timing of the layers but it says on the can. You can see the write-up somewhere around page 23 of my build thread.

 

[Juneaudave]

My countertop is birch ply with ash trim that has been coated with poly. I use a small cutting board for food prep. 12 years and still functions well.

 

[Modstock]

I used this craft wood 3/4" (Lowes) for my counters and urethaned em.
I chose this because it was lightweight and looks great with clear on it.
Just built some front cabinets with it.

Sent from my SM-A115AP using Tapatalk

 

[Felix_Esq]

Your galley ideas are all so helpful! I wish I was as handy with wood as you all are.

I plan to paint my cabinets for a couple reasons.

First, I am a terrible carpenter (at least at this early stage). There are visible mistakes, scratches, and dings all over. If I sand, fill, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint, and urethane, I can hide all those mistakes.

Second, I am doing this build as a neophyte and I am trying to go as light as possible on costs. Because of that, I am not using the fanciest of materials. I have been using "SandePly" which is marketed at Home Depot as a "hardwood ply" but it is not nearly as pretty as other types of plywood out there. I decided early to paint, rather than to stain/varnish them.

I went to the 'Depot yesterday looking for cabinet paint. The paint guy happened to have a gallon of alkyd paint very close to the color I was looking for, in his mistake bin for $9. That plus a small bit of urethane, and I was out the door for $15.

I will post results when I can.

-Felix

 

[Felix_Esq]

I used this craft wood 3/4" for my counters and urethaned em.
I chose this because it was lightweight and looks great with clear on it.
Just built some front cabinets with it.

Sent from my SM-A115AP using Tapatalk

I like all that grain and natural look!

-Felix

 

[Modstock]

Me too. Another reason I picked it was it was straighter than any wood there.

Sent from my SM-A115AP using Tapatalk

 

[MtnDon]

I stained my plywood with a green stain, then clear coated it.

 

[Felix_Esq]

Thought I would post my solution. It will get another sanding and a final coat of clearcoat.