Planning a Budget Squaredrop Build: Design, Materials, and CPAP Power Solutions

[Big Johnson]

Hey all I’m from SC and really want to build a Squaredrop. Thinking of using a Northern Tool 5x8 trail that I will weld up and change wheels. I’d like to keep the cost around the 3500$ mark. If possible lol. Must have shore power capability because I use a cpap. Squaredrop will end up being 5x9. I thought of extending the tongue on the trailer by 1’ or 1.5’ to get the tongue weight I need. AC is also a must. Any ideas critiques pitfalls must dos I should look for I would appreciate all advice. Areas of concerns to start with are design layout. I’m a mechatronics tech so I’m pretty handy with tool. I will have help from my wife and brother in law when needed.

 

[Sara-TNT]

Premade doors are expensive. I bought doors bigger than the average which I think was a mistake. Check out the oregon batman teardrop build series. He built a teardrop but there is a lot of knowledge that translates. I am handy with power tools but this type of detail woodworking was new to me. One lesson learned (of which I have many) was that I would have someone do a cnc cut of the sides. I built a teardrop and it was a pain to get both sides even. A square drop should be easier. Leverage friends with skills (like an electrician) when you get to that phase. The more design you do up front for where the lights and electrical outlets will go, the better. Then you'll have the supporting wood in the right place. It's an adventure - enjoy.

 

[Big Johnson]

I will definitely check out Oregon Batman thanks. I started my career as an electrician so I got that part covered. But I will call on everyone on this site and forum for their knowledge. I was gonna build a teardrop 15 years ago and it never panned out. I had a good friend built a square drop and he sold it to me. It had a tree branch fall on it. And got ruined. So I had to trash it. I’ve been wanting another ever since. Ive got a carport to store it in now. So it will be safe. I’ve got so many wheels turning on what I want. Just gotta put the ideas in motion. Come up with a design. Make a to do list. Start pounding away on it. I’m gonna source as much material as I can from FB marketplace too.

 

[Big Johnson]

Ordered my trailer from Northern they lowered the price by 50$ so I pulled the trigger and bought it. Cross your fingers that I can stay the course.

 

[Tom&Shelly]

Best of luck! Sounds like you have a solid plan and the right skills. Post a build thread on this forum, if you want to.

Tom

 

[Big Johnson]

Oh yeah I definitely will. Starting with some still pics of the trailer. I hope. I’ll dust off the ole go pro and take some video too and post it to my YouTube channel.

 

[Tony Latham]

I built a teardrop and it was a pain to get both sides even.

Did you build a template?

Tony

 

[reaver]

Take the time to plan as much out as you possibly can. I too, built a square drop, and I think with the exception of building the hatch, a teardrop would actually be easier to build. Getting the angles right is really difficult. I'm a decent wood worker, and even I couldn't get everything to line up perfectly.

Buying pre-made doors is very expensive, but building doors that latch and seal properly is very difficult. I went with pre-made doors on mine, and have ZERO regrets.

As far as cpaps go, both my wife and I use one. We power them off the trailer battery, and have no issues. Mine runs off 12v directly, my wife's uses a small inverter, since hers is 24v. Turn off the heated hose and humidifier, and you won't have an issue.

Taking the time to make templates is 100% worth it. Also, buying a router, and a topside flush trim bit will make making each side exactly the same a piece of cake.

 

[Tom&Shelly]

I'll say, we didn't have any problems building our hatch. We basically used the same method Tony describes in his book.

We also used pre-made doors. We had problems once driving through heavy thunderstorms. Of course, I don't know if built doors would have been better or worse.

Tom

 

[Big Johnson]

Did you build a template?

Tony

Tony I have not made a template yet. Not exactly sure where I’m gonna put the doors and windows. But I think I will make a template following your advice thanks.

 

[Big Johnson]

Take the time to plan as much out as you possibly can. I too, built a square drop, and I think with the exception of building the hatch, a teardrop would actually be easier to build. Getting the angles right is really difficult. I'm a decent wood worker, and even I couldn't get everything to line up perfectly.

Buying pre-made doors is very expensive, but building doors that latch and seal properly is very difficult. I went with pre-made doors on mine, and have ZERO regrets.

As far as cpaps go, both my wife and I use one. We power them off the trailer battery, and have no issues. Mine runs off 12v directly, my wife's uses a small inverter, since hers is 24v. Turn off the heated hose and humidifier, and you won't have an issue.

Taking the time to make templates is 100% worth it. Also, buying a router, and a topside flush trim bit will make making each side exactly the same a piece of cake.

My cpap is 120 volt. I don’t run heat or humidifier either.
But I may go with a 24 volt/120 volt system later own with a couple of solar panels.
I know the basic shape I want but still don’t know where I want the door at yet. Galley is a mystery atm. I’ll continue to look at other people’s and make one similar to someone else’s I think. I may go with double doors in the back instead of a fold up hatch due to my height. I’m 6’3” and my wife is 5’ 11”. Don’t want the hatch to be in the way of our heads while we in the galley.
There’s so much planning I’ve still got to do. Wheew!!! lol. Gotta make a list and study each line item. Write an answer for every line item. I’m a big list kinda person.
I think I’m definitely gonna buy doors and windows. If my wife don’t put the kibosh on the project from a financial standpoint before I can. lol.
I bought a ryobi router and topside cut off bits. I’ve got impacts, drills, welder, chop saw, table saw, and skill saws.
Thanks for responding to my post.

 

[Tony Latham]

But I think I will make a template following your advice thanks.

They really help, especially with a curved cabin. The question was directed at Sarah-TNT since she said she had a problem getting the walls the same, and she's using my book.

Good luck with your project.

Tony

 

[Tony Latham]

I know the basic shape I want but still don’t know where I want the door at yet.

Go lie on your bed. Then sit up and start to get out of bed, but remain sitting on the side of your bed. That's the same spot you sat to get on the bed, and that's exactly where you want your door.

Tony

 

[Tony Latham]

My cpap is 120 volt.

Six-bits says your CPAP runs on 24 volts. That black box in the cord is a converter to change the 120 volts AC into DC, and it loses about 20% in the process.

Get a DC cord for your machine.

Tony

 

[Big Johnson]

lol and your right I can buy a dc/dc converter cable for my Airsense 11. Thanks for the info.

 

[reaver]

Six-bits says your CPAP runs on 24 volts. That black box in the cord is a converter to change the 120 volts AC into DC, and it loses about 20% in the process.

Get a DC cord for your machine.

Tony

My wife uses the air sense 11, also the 24v version. We opted to get a small 150W inverter that stays in the trailer. Even with that, it draws less than 1A from the battery when not using the heated hose or humidifier. I've not tried running it off a 12v to 24v step up converter, but it should be possible.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Six-bits says your CPAP runs on 24 volts. That black box in the cord is a converter to change the 120 volts AC into DC, and it loses about 20% in the process.

Get a DC cord for your machine.

Tony

Six-bits! That’s a blast from the past! I wonder how many people still use the expression, and how fewer know the origin.

 

[Big Johnson]

I was doing some planning and was thinking of using 2x2 framing. And 1/2” plywood outer walls and floors. Is this over kill. But I’ve seen a lot of folks use 3/4 plywood for the walls with 1x2 for the framing. I’ve got a basic drawing on paper using a ruler. I’m still waiting on my trailer to be delivered to northern tool. So until it comes in I’m still planning.

 

[KCStudly]

2x2 seems excessive to me (unless for a door frame in a foamie build ).

1/2 inch ply outer skins also seem excessive if you are planning to have an inner skin or inner panelling with insulation in between. If no inner skin or insulation, then maybe 1/2 inch ply walls with 1x2 stick framing (the hard way) makes more sense. Thumb at arms length engineering, "looks about right".

 

[Pmullen503]

2x2 seems excessive to me (unless for a door frame in a foamie build ).

1/2 inch ply outer skins also seem excessive if you are planning to have an inner skin or inner panelling with insulation in between. If no inner skin or insulation, then maybe 1/2 inch ply walls with 1x2 stick framing (the hard way) makes more sense. Thumb at arms length engineering, "looks about right".

I have a enclosed trailer (for hauling stuff not camping in) with 1 x 2 framing and 1/4" single plywood outer wall and it's more than strong enough. I'd have used 1/8" but couldn't source it at the time.

When designing a camper, think airplane not tank.