Planning a Queen-Bed Teardrop on a Narrow Trailer

[jpickard8]

Hello,
I broke through the lurking phase of the camper-building process by buying a featherlite 4.5 by 8 foot trailer. I am now planning my build. I am leaning towards a platform raised above the wheels with to accommodate a queen sized bed. Plywood sandwich. Probably teardrop, not squaredrop. Manufactured door. Vent. Unknown power source. No galley. Fiberglass and epoxy.
I have done a lot of timber framing and diy projects, but I am new to rv electrical and fiberglass. I am working with my son, who would like to become an engineer.
I would appreciate any advice the community has to offer, but I have benefited a lot already from these discussions. Thank you!

 

[Happy Clamster]

You'd need 5 feet of internal width to accommodate a queen size mattress (60" x 80"). A single elevated floor would be one way to get that, but another would be to have two: elevated ~1.5' floors projecting out over the fenders right and left, with a 2' aisle down at frame level. (Removable) storage boxes fill in the aisle to complete the plane for the bed. A plus for the projecting the floor/s is, you could enclose the wheels, for better aerodynamics.

 

[Tony Latham]

You'd need 5 feet of internal width to accommodate a queen size mattress

A queen will fit fine in a 5'-wide teardrop that's 57.5" wide inside, and that will allow the use of 5' x 5' sheets of Baltic birch plywood.

If someone tried to talk me into building a teardrop that's 5' wide internally–and I don't build commercially–I'd say, "Nope." I can't imagine not using 5' sheets of Baltic in a teardrop build.

Here's a video of me installing the headliner constructed of two sheets of 5' x 5' 1/8" Baltic. The quality of this stuff is unbelievable, and of course I use 3/4" for the bulkheads.

Tony

 

[jpickard8]

Thank you for your advice. I am still trying to wrap my head around the bed, but that's because I don't know much about the options. I certainly haven't exhausted tntt for the answers to the following questions:
Happy Clamster: With raised platforms to accommodate the wheels, at what height should I put the doors? Will an extended bed at platform height make it hard to get out of the camper? Where should I look for beds?

Tony: I like the idea of building to suit the best materials. I guess a 60" queen is actually 57.5"? I am still pondering the width of my insulation. 2" would mean 55.5" internal width, if using Baltic birch. But realistically, I will not be camping much in winter.

Thanks,

John

 

[Happy Clamster]

First, let me say that I'm totally brainstorming here. I have built my own teardrop, but it is a highly unconventional design, which may or may not have given me applicable experience. That said, assuming you'd want to keep your overall height down for less drag in towing, I'd run the door to floor down to the same level as the aisle) and have a removable section in the passenger side platform mentioned above, letting you get in/out without having to crawl.
Tony is surely right re keeping the width overall at 60 inches, so that you can use 5 foot sheets of material. And in the design I'm picturing, the "queen" bed would actually consist of three long pads, corresponding to the left and right platforms and middle row of storage boxes all in a line-- in short, custom mattresses that you can make as wide or narrow as you need, and that fold or stack out of the way when not in use.
Are you picturing this as an off-roader, boondocker style camper, or are you going to stick to paved roads and established campgrounds? (This would have some bearing on my earlier enclosed wheels comment.)

 

[jpickard8]

It will be a paved road camper. The trailer is an alumnium featherlite.
Currently, the door placement is what is making me hesitate to use a removable raised bed platform. A very tall door could suit both the low ( bed folded) and high (bed extended) positions.
I need to read more about doors.

 

[Happy Clamster]

Those Featherlites are slick trailers! But I don't see one that's 4.5 feet wide, on their website. Smallest one I could find is their model 1694: 6.5 wide and 10 feet long. Maybe yours is an older model?

 

[Tony Latham]

I guess a 60" queen is actually 57.5"?

Nope. A 60" queen is still 60". But it's foam. In fact, I make the interior length 78" instead of the same 80" length of the mattress, because in a previous tear, that was 80" long, the mattress moved around.

The door height should be halfway into your mattress. Ours is 8", so 4" up the side of the pad. When sitting in the doorway, you want to be sitting on the mattress, not a structural part of the wall.

You also want to place the door where your hips lie.

 

[jpickard8]

Thank you, Tony. I have noted the door placement. Now--to buy doors or not to buy?

HC: my trailer is an older model. Squared off wheel wells. It seems solid!

I am currently considering having the mattress NOT on a raised platform. It will simplify the build to avoid under-deck storage.

I am planning to extend off the sides at bit to expand the cabin size.


Right now I am sourcing plywood. I think there is a place in west springfield that has a variety of specialty plywood. Until then, I will build the base and plan pocket attachments to the trailer.

I see how this process goes--I will keep changing my mind until I start gluing my materials together.

 

[Happy Clamster]

I am currently considering having the mattress NOT on a raised platform. It will simplify the build to avoid under-deck storage.

Or, you could look at a raised platform as an opportunity to do some cool things with your under-deck storage, without a whole lot of time and expense involved. Run partitions across from side to side, install food-truck style extension drawer glides. Greyhound bus-type hinged doors in your outer shell cover the openings. On site, the doors go up, the drawers/trays pull out, there's your tools, air pump, AC ducts, etc. A bare channel with no glides or drawers would accommodate your kayak paddles, hiking sticks, and so forth. You got to put all that gear somewhere if you want to lie down, so why not under the bed?

 

[Rich796]

Might be easier to buy a wider axle. Then just build flat.

 

[swoody126]

Nope. A 60" queen is still 60". But it's foam. In fact, I make the interior length 78" instead of the same 80" length of the mattress, because in a previous tear, that was 80" long, the mattress moved around.

The door height should be halfway into your mattress. Ours is 8", so 4" up the side of the pad. When sitting in the doorway, you want to be sitting on the mattress, not a structural part of the wall.

You also want to place the door where your hips lie.

JP , be advised ... Queens come in 2 sizes !

residential & RV

might ought2 consider nailing your choice down 1st then start your cypherin' !

i see above Tony above might have put an RV Queen mattress in a box built for a residential Queen mattress

btw ... no knead2 ask how i know this ;-)

sw

 

[Tony Latham]

i see above Tony above might have put an RV Queen mattress in a box built for a residential Queen mattress

Nope, a 60" wide queen in a 57.5" cabin. They're foam. It compresses. It works fine.

Tony