PMF vs Epoxy/Glass - TPCE Wants Your Vote

TPCE Wants Your Vote - Which method should I use, PMF or Epoxy and Glass?

  • PMF

    Votes: 13 61.9%
  • Epoxy and Glass

    Votes: 8 38.1%

  • Total voters
    21

KCStudly

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Posts
9,733
I’m having a terrible time trying to make the final decision whether to use PMF (poor man’s fiberglass = TB2 glue, canvas and latex paint), or to step up and use epoxy and fiberglass, to cover The Poet Creek Express.

For those of you who may be unfamiliar with my build, TPCE is a hybrid foamie build, similar in shape to a Benroy, with 5 mm plywood inner skins and 1-1/2 inch blue foam cores. It has mostly cedar framing, though very minimal, especially in the walls and roof to wall join. Most of the hard points are small 1x pine plates (or blocks) let into router pockets in the walls. The plan had always been to use PMF for the outer skin, and I have already bought a big roll of 10oz x 72 inch wide cotton duck from Big Duck canvas.

The thing is, my project has kind of snowballed into a labor of love taking many more man hours (man years, really) than expected, and I have managed, I think, to achieve a certain quality of build that probably deserves reconsidering the added expense and durability of an epoxy and glass outer shell.

I have spent a lot of time doing foam “bodywork” to get the surface reasonably smooth and true to my intended profile, including rounding over the roof to wall edges with a 3/4 inch radius, so don’t bother suggesting a switch to hard panel covering options. Plywood, Filon, FRP, or aluminum skins won’t work for me, so please don’t suggest anything like that.

Let’s compare,
Pros for epoxy/glass:
1. It is very durable. My tests show that two layers of 6oz cloth would provide very good dent and abrasion resistance. An important distinction for my moderate off road style build.
2. It is very permanent and when painted for UV protection promises a long and maintenance free service life. I would also feel much better about storing the camper outside until I can find room in my overcrowded garage.
3. It is light weight. I haven’t nailed down an exact figure, but my test pieces only show about 3oz per square foot prior to surface finish, so maybe 37.5 lbs for the whole camper is a conservative estimate.
4. The glass cloth does not need to be pre-washed, shrunk, dried or ironed.
5. Seams and laps tend to blend fairly well.

Cons for epoxy/glass:
1. The epoxy is much more expensive than TB2 glue, and since the glass cloth (at 60 inches wide) is about the same cost as the canvas (at 72 inches wide) it will also cost more to do two layers.
2. The glass is itchy to work with and not nearly as easy to handle as the canvas. It wants to pull out of shape and strands of glass pull out of the cut edges much more readily than the cotton.
3. The epoxy is kind of noxious and requires much more diligence in handling (careful mixing, and acetone cleanup). I would be more concerned about making a mess on the floor of my loaner work shop, though that can be worked around by laying drop cloths or cardboard. I tend to “run hot” and covering up with long sleeves and PPE does not help.
4. Since I have already assembled my major panels, I won’t be able to conveniently position for horizontal application on the walls and front, although I will be able tip the cabin over partially to do the walls. The hatch has a “bustle shape” with a largely vertical reverse tuck under at the rear and I want to get the majority of the hatch skin applied with it in place to avoid locking in unwanted twist. Wetting glass on a vertical surface is said to be very difficult, and I can only imagine how hard it will be to do my door headers and the lower portion of the hatch.
5. I have very little experience with composites, but have been doing okay with the smaller jobs and tests that I have attempted.

Pros for PMF:
1. Less expensive and I already have about a gallon and a half of TB2, and big roll of quality cotton duck canvas.
2. Handles easily with no itching, warping, or stretching grossly out of shape. Seems to be more forgiving with loose threads when handling.
3. Easy water cleanup.
4. May be easier to apply for someone with little composite experience.
5. Dents from incidental contact and hail have been reported to self-heal after spending time in the sun, or if a hot iron is applied using a damp rag as a buffer.

Cons for PMF:
1. Less durable; does not form as hard a shell. Allows dents.
2. Requires prewashing, shrinking and ironing.
3. There have been several reports of issues with blisters (although it is also reported that these can be re-adhered using the iron trick).
4. Seams and laps need to be very neatly trimmed and planned out as they tend to sit proud.
5. There have been a couple of reports of questionable performance: a bad case of delamination due to a dry application (that was able to be corrected), seams starting to pull apart, and a tear in the canvas (the later two suspected to be due to not preshrinking the fabric, but also possibly due to fabric shrinking over time... IMO, not enough data or history to be sure at this point).

So, I ask that you vote in consideration of my situation, not based on what you would do in your situation. Feel free to comment on what you would choose for yourself and why, but please vote with your recommendation for me and my situation.

No guarantee that I will opt with the majority vote, but I am waffling on the fence and your input may help me decide which way to go.

Thanks.
 
Thanks Dale!

Please select the button at top to register your vote. Currently 2 FG vs. 0 PMF.
 
KCStudly":i13a19sr said:
Thanks Dale!

Please select the button at top to register your vote. Currently 2 FG vs. 0 PMF.
Ill have to do it on a computer later,no buttons on tapatalk
 
Just to throw another thought into the mix, I bought some inexpensive boat plans to make a small, one man boat. (It's now on the back boiler and maybe never built since I got an inflatable kayak.) For the boat, the fellow recommends using fiberglass sheeting with TBII. He says you can use epoxy resin if you want to; but that TBII works just as well.

Frankly, with all the work you've put into your build, I would go with the fiberglass. ....Probably the epoxy, too, because of the denting problem you mentioned with TBII...but then, again, I remember the experiment that I did with epoxy covered boards. (pg 11 of my build thread) Those dented, too!

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In the end, you pick your poison and hope it works the way you want it to.
 
I would add two more criteria to your list: fiberglass/epoxy can be sanded very smooth and is virtually invisible over wood. If you want a smooth glossy painted surface or a bright wood finish (think cedar strip canoe) then fiberglass/epoxy is the way to go.

Covering the inside roof will be tough with either but vertical surfaces really are not that bad. Just watch out for runs with epoxy. Covering curved corners like the hatch will be easier with glass than with canvas. Use bias tape or bias cut cloth (no darts or overlaps to cut.)

You could cover the outside with PMF and save the fiberglass for a stunning bright finished interior; a stealth land yacht!

That said, I went with PMF with flat paint for a workman-like finish on my toy hauler/camper. I've build 11 wood boats covered in glass and epoxy so I'm comfortable working with it.

The additional cost is small when you think of the time and money spent building the rest of the camper.
 
Inside is already finished, Red Chestnut stain and poly over Okoume.

I'm definitely leaning way over hard toward epoxy/glass at the moment. :thumbsup:
 
I would add a third option - glass in polyester resin. Much cheaper than epoxy and very forgiving to use. Not as long lasting as epoxy, but there are 40-year old boats with polyester/glass sheathing over wood, so that's not exactly a short life. Most of the same finishing work as epoxy/glass if you want a smooth finish.
 
Sorry Angib, I'm going over blue foam, so polyester resin, or rather the MEK hardener is a 'no go' for me.
 
KC, In reading your pros and cons one thing stood out to me.
Dents from incidental contact and hail have been reported to self-heal after spending time in the sun

Since you are putting this over foam and not wood I was wondering if the fiberglass and epoxy would hold up to a hard rock or hail or would it just shatter/crack as the foam gave underneath from a hit. I know it would work fine over wood but maybe the PMF is a better option over foam since it seems that it self heals and maybe more forgiving in long term usage of your teardrop.

I think I would lean toward PMF. Especially after I saw the video Lucy from Mesa Arizona did on her teardrop. She indicated she sanded to get the PMF smoother and her stripes looked really good.

Good luck in your decision

Dan
 
I hear you Dan.

I took the 2 ply glass sample and whacked it on the corner of the bench a couple of times pretty hard, and it didn't leave a mark or dent. A day or two later I did it again to show Karl and it made a tiny little white spot.

I guess I can do a hammer test comparison next time, but neither sample is backed up by the 5mm ply, as in the full scale build, so maybe not a valid test.

I think the breaking or tear strength of the glass fibers must be significantly higher than the cotton, though I have not found empirical data.

My thought is that in a scrape or tree branch poke scenario the glass will brush off more, whereas the canvas will dent and be more likely to let the offending intruder grab hold and take a bite, and thus more readily pierce through.

I'm also wondering about solar heat rejection. I wanted to tie the color scheme into the black Jeep, but with concerns about temperature and melting foam around 212 deg F, I am limited to light colors. I had thought that a light gray might be a good compromise, but have since read of at least one case where a converted CT owner switched to white from gray and noted a significant reduction in surface temps.

I haven't found any info specific to epoxy layups, and I doubt that there is much, if any info on PVA glue and fabric, but if I look at the thermal conductivity listings for the constituent materials, or similar, it looks like the glass and epoxy may not do as well as the cotton. This may not be a fair interpretation, so take it for what it is, not much.
 
:thinking: You could paint it white with black accents. ...Maybe black and grey or black and red accents?
 
I know. White is so boring (no offense intended to all of those white camper builders out there, it is the most practical color for heat rejection).

We're getting a little OT here, but that never stopped me before, so...

I was thinking gray with darker gray scallops, long thin ones trailing from the front corners back, kind of like Charlie B's orange and white Lilgizmo that shows up in the hall of fame header pic every now and again. Now I'm thinking mostly white, or very slightly tinted gray in white with lighter gray scallops, perhaps a royal purple pinstripe.

If I haven't already done so, I'll explain the purple over on the build thread.
 
I think one thing you're missing for your durability test is the fact that the paint on the outside of the PMF is going to add strength and durability to your build.

I get that you are probably leaving it off for now based on an apples to apples comparison of coating methods, but the paint seems to be an integral part of PMF not only for waterproofing, but also durability of the canvas. OTOH, paint on the fiberglass is just a UV protectant and exterior visual enhancement, not a necessary part of the process.

Just something to consider.
 
Yeah, the thick Zinsser primer I put on last night did seem to make the canvas that little bit better, but on one of the samples the edge of the canvas pulled away from the foam, as if the primer drying pulled it up.

The PMF is very impressive, I must admit. (waffle)

Tonight I cleaned off the work bench and recycled the plastic sheeting out of my vacuum bag set-up. Used it to line the bench for covering duties. (tilt)

With the primer I can still dent the foam with my finger more easily than the 2-ply glass (which takes some effort to depress just slightly and springs back), but it seems to also spring right back better than it did before; even on the radius edge that I thought might be more susceptible. (nice volley, boy is my head swimming).

Maybe I really should do that test with the TB2 and glass weave. :thinking:

Damn, just when I thought I had made my final decision... and the weather isn't getting any warmer, either.

Okay, I scuffed the little raised bits of canvas "hair" with the small block and I think I should hit it with another round of primer and some paint.
 
I'm in the same boat with Dale. No buttons in tapatalk. PMF. You're not building a tank, it's a camper & i"m pretty sure you won't be reckless while driving it. I can't see you treating any jeep like a rock bouncer while towing TPCE so dents and damage should be less of a factor.
 
And yes after 1 coat of zinther superprime and 4 coats of dulux endure my canvas is considerably stronger than without it.
Im not realy biased one way or another but im very impressed with paint on canvas on mine thus far.
Ive used drill canvas (diagonal weave) with a high thread count and i bealieve this has added to the strenth greatly.


A slight off topic note...im waffling on wether to prime with zinther over the soack filler prior to tb2...what did you intend doung?
I thought the zinther sticks to anything and visa versa so id probably have a better chance of adhesion.. your thoughts...
 
I had thought about doing a full strength TB2 over the canvas, before paint or primer and paint, but got ahead of myself and forgot.

As I have proven many times, by the many helpful corrections that my fellow TDer's have blessed me with, that I am not an expert in many materials that are not metal (and even that I don't claim to be expert in). Simple version, your asking the wrong guy. :R

You know, even though we all like to experiment using material combinations and products for methods that they may not have been intended, I often wonder if our testing is valid at all, since we seldom are ever able to do practical long term testing before having to make an assessment to use or don't use.
 
Very true.
Ive told a few people some of my plans and even the whole concept of building my own caravan/teardrop and the reactions range from bewilderment to fascination to "have you just escaped from somewhere and do i need to call the authorities "
When i was looking around for paint for the canvas people thought i was bonkers; not to mention the lady at the fabric shop.
I think i might go with the primer or do a test piece
 
As you know, I am a big advocate for PMF. However I promote it for two reasons, it is easy, and it is cheap.
I've built two tears with it and would do it again. I also built a boat that features PMF and designed another that features PMF.
I don't think it is the kind of finish for a detail oriented builder like you, unless you are able to raise a mirror finish on a fabric skin. Obviously it is done all the time with FG, I'm not sure you will save anything doing that level of work to PMF.
 

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