Propane hose question.

[30dayreviews]

Hello all.
Im looking at having a small tank outside of my trailer and due to the planned set up I need the hose to go through the wall or floor up or over into the gally area. wondering what options there are to do this safely and waterproof? thanks for any suggestions

 

[MtnDon]

Run copper tubing through the floor. Use flare fittings to connect on the outside to the hose and on whatever is needed inside. Best to use a rubber grommet at the floor penetration. Use flare fittings, not compression fittings. You may need to buy a tool but flare fittings are what is needed. Seal the floor hole with sealant.

 

[Tony Latham]

When I was at this phase, I called my friend up and told him what I was up to. He's been a propane installer for over thirty years. My Plan A was black pipe.

Part of my problem was that my stove needed a high-pressure regulator and the heater needed a normal 11" WC regulator.

He gave it a look and scratched his head for a few days and suggested rubber propane line for the heater but automotive steel reinforced rubber hose for the high-pressure side. He was concerned with leakage of the numerous fittings I would need if I went with the pipe.

Here's how it looks:

The fact that the lines are rubber made for an easy run without additional fittings (that could leak). Both lines go up through the floor and are sealed off with Lexel sealant. I measured what I needed and he cut the hose and crimped the fittings on. Any propane business can do this.

I'd do it again this way if need be.

Tony

 

[30dayreviews]

suggested rubber propane line for the heater Tony

I wonder if there is a way I could do it with just a black pipe since it would only be for the stovetop. I will be going with diesel for my trailer I think at least as of right now that's the plan.

 

[Squigie]

When I was at this phase, I called my friend up and told him what I was up to. He's been a propane installer for over thirty years. My Plan A was black pipe.

Part of my problem was that my stove needed a high-pressure regulator and the heater needed a normal 11" WC regulator.

He gave it a look and scratched his head for a few days and suggested rubber propane line for the heater but automotive steel reinforced rubber hose for the high-pressure side. He was concerned with leakage of the numerous fittings I would need if I went with the pipe.

Here's how it looks:



The fact that the lines are rubber made for an easy run without additional fittings (that could leak). Both lines go up through the floor and are sealed off with Lexel sealant. I measured what I needed and he cut the hose and crimped the fittings on. Any propane business can do this.

I'd do it again this way if need be.

Tony

This^^

I broached the same subject with my brother, a commercial plumber, last year (for a stove and heater that are both 11" water column). I got a similar answer.
I asked him what he thought would be best, copper pipe, annealed copper tubing, steel pipe, braided hose, etc.

He replied very quickly: "I wouldn't use any of them. Just run rubber hose. It's easier, won't shake the joints loose, and will handle vibration better. And you can probably get the right lengths off the shelf."

I plan to seal with a grommet and whatever compatible waterproofing goo I have available at the time.

 

[eLink]

When I was at this phase, I called my friend up and told him what I was up to. He's been a propane installer for over thirty years. My Plan A was black pipe.

Part of my problem was that my stove needed a high-pressure regulator and the heater needed a normal 11" WC regulator.

He gave it a look and scratched his head for a few days and suggested rubber propane line for the heater but automotive steel reinforced rubber hose for the high-pressure side. He was concerned with leakage of the numerous fittings I would need if I went with the pipe.

Tony,
Any reason why the regulators are up front, with parallel lines running to the back, rather than a single line to the back with regulators near the appliances?

 

[GuitarPhotog]

When I was at this phase, I called my friend up and told him what I was up to. He's been a propane installer for over thirty years. My Plan A was black pipe.

Part of my problem was that my stove needed a high-pressure regulator and the heater needed a normal 11" WC regulator.

He gave it a look and scratched his head for a few days and suggested rubber propane line for the heater but automotive steel reinforced rubber hose for the high-pressure side. He was concerned with leakage of the numerous fittings I would need if I went with the pipe.

Tony,
Any reason why the regulators are up front, with parallel lines running to the back, rather than a single line to the back with regulators near the appliances?

So you are not running high pressure (tank pressure) propane so far. Without check valves the propane in the hose will have to be vented every time the tank is changed/filled. The reason RV appliances run at such low pressure (11" W.C.) is so that any leakage will be slow and the hose/pipe will be under very low pressure.

 

[eLink]

So you are not running high pressure (tank pressure) propane so far. Without check valves the propane in the hose will have to be vented every time the tank is changed/filled. The reason RV appliances run at such low pressure (11" W.C.) is so that any leakage will be slow and the hose/pipe will be under very low pressure.

Got it. Thanks!

 

[Tony Latham]

Any reason why the regulators are up front, with parallel lines running to the back, rather than a single line to the back with regulators near the appliances?

Yep. Safety. In the event of a leak, I don't want a mass of propane spewing about.

Tony